Make my own washboards?

[Gixer]

After years of patching up, my current washboards are on their last legs and need to be replaced.

I know many of you guys have made your own and I'm after some advice. I think I'm set on tinted Acrylic as I like the idea of more light below. I've never worked with Acrylic before and want to know what its like to work with, drilling, cutting, etc? What tools are best to use, cutting the 45 degree angle, etc? I only have basic tools and don't have access to anything fancy.

Should I even attempt this as Acrylic is really expensive to make mistakes with?

 

[PaulRainbow]

Mine are acrylic. Cut it with a jigsaw with a plastic cutting blade. Edges can be sanded and polished. Drill ok with metal cutting drill bits, although they work better is sharpened with a shallower angle. Definitely better for light, but if you don't want passers by looking in, get a dark tint.

You can also have them cut to the exact size/shape, i normally use Bay Plastics for that.

 

[Thistle]

I agree with PaulRainbow above. I cut with a jigsaw with no problems. Just keep using a sharp blade and keep the speed down to avoid melting. I finished the edges and cut an overlap between the two boards using a router: not much option for keeping the speed down but by taking time and making lots of small cuts I ended up with a good result.

Varnishing is no longer an annual job

 

[jwilson]

It's not that easy to DIY cut and shape acrylic, have to go very very slowly as too fast and material melts and jams saw blade. Can be done though given enough care and patience. For small thinner bits like engine control panel covers I do DIY, but I've just paid Nu-Sign in Plymouth to make new 12mm washboards. Very efficient.

 

[asteven221]

I made a two part set of washboard to use whilst we are on board as the normal washboard is one piece, quite heavy, large a bit of nuisance. I used 8mm acrylic. I agree with what others have said, but one thing I would suggest is practice on a spare bit of acrylic to get a feel for drilling and cutting. it's quite easy to ruin you work by cracking the acrylic. I have that T shirt!!! As always You Tube offers plenty of advice and demos.

 

[Gixer]

Thanks guys, I've just been watching some YouTube videos, didn't realise it can weld itself back together if you go to fast!

Bay plastics look to be a good price for the materials, my companionway is tapered and the top slightly rounded so to get a good fit I think i'll have a go at cutting myself.

 

[Tranona]

Unless you are experienced with this type of work, best to get them cut to a pattern. Don't know about Bay Plastics, but most firms that deal in this stuff will have the facilities to cut any shapes and finish the edges. you can also get the holes cut for any locking arrangements you have on the upper board. If your washboards are 2 pieces then the joint between should be cut at a downward sloping 45 degrees and the joint covered with a batten attached to the upper one overlapping the join to stop water getting in.

 

[dankilb]

Unless you are experienced with this type of work, best to get them cut to a pattern. Don't know about Bay Plastics, but most firms that deal in this stuff will have the facilities to cut any shapes and finish the edges. you can also get the holes cut for any locking arrangements you have on the upper board. If your washboards are 2 pieces then the joint between should be cut at a downward sloping 45 degrees and the joint covered with a batten attached to the upper one overlapping the join to stop water getting in.

Yup was just thinking this - ours has a pronounced angle that I’m not sure how I’d reproduce DIY (assuming acrylic doesn’t like circular/table saws?!!).

 

[dankilb]

Yup was just thinking this - ours has a pronounced angle that I’m not sure how I’d reproduce DIY (assuming acrylic doesn’t like circular/table saws?!!).

Router bit might be one option? (Just to answer my own question!)

 

[Gixer]

Thanks Tranona,

I am concerned about doing this. Woods pretty cheap if you screw up, fibreglass can be rebuilt and metal can be rewelded. Acrylic seems to be a one shot deal.

The quote I’d had for getting them made seems costly and the turnaround is quite long, hence me wanting to ‘have a go’.

yes, they are two piece.

 

[Spirit (of Glenans)]

When I dropped and broke my original one -piece acrylic washboard, I got a two-piece set made up by my local plastics supplier Access Plastics, who have a separate fabrication division. The job included a hole for the lock and interlocking rebates where the two sections meet. The price wasn't particularly exorbitant. Anyone in the Dublin/Leinster area contemplating upgrading their washboards would be wise to check them out before attempting a DIY job, as they would probably be buying the raw material from the same firm, in any event.
(No connection, satisfied customer)

 

[Tranona]

Yup was just thinking this - ours has a pronounced angle that I’m not sure how I’d reproduce DIY (assuming acrylic doesn’t like circular/table saws?!!).

Routed out rebates would be another alternative..

 

[fredrussell]

If you’re diy-ing, you don’t have to have the angle cut where two pieces meet. Mine are just a butt joint with a third piece one inch wide attached to the lower piece’s upper edge to stop water ingress. Doesn’t leak.

 

[dankilb]

We’ve got three pending acrylic projects on board: Companionway hatch (curved!), washboards, and - unusually - large coach roof windows/port ‘skylights’ (Jen ‘Voyage’).

I’d definitely be up for DIYing the skylights. I reckon I’d seek a fabricator for the others as it stands. Doesn’t sound particularly specialist, compared to other ‘marine’ fab jobs. And washboards are quite ‘ergonomic’ - even tactile?! - so you’d want them tidy.

Respect to those giving it a go DIY though and if the skylights work I’d hope to join you!

 

[prv]

Routed out rebates would be another alternative..

That’s what I did with my polycarbonate washboards. Cut a rebate about half an inch wide and half the thickness of the material, on each board, so that they interlock.

You do need to take care with the overall dimensions when doing this or you could accidentally end up half an inch short. It‘s probably best to cut the angled sides afterwards, with the boards assembled together.

Pete

 

[Gixer]

I’m starting to bottle it….

 

[PaulRainbow]

I’m starting to bottle it….

I wouldn't.

Slow cut with a jigsaw works fine get a proper blade.

Fine cuts with a router are fine.

Sanding cut edges with increasingly fine "sand" paper is easy enough, finish with polishing compound for a shiny finish.

Take care if drilling holes, don't press too hard.

I've replaced a few bits on my own boat and made many acrylic adaptor "plates" when fitting electronics of different dimensions to previous ones. Go slow and it's very straightforward.

 

[Slowtack]

What type of bit and drill speed is best for drilling holes?

 

[William_H]

Yes all of the above info is good however your wash boards are the first defense against vandalism and theft. My first plywood ones were smashed to gain entry. (several times) now I have fairly heavy 5mm aluminium no more trouble although heavy if you drop it on your toe. ol'will

 

[John the kiwi]

There are table saws and tables saws. A good saw with new fine tooth wobble free blade and rigid guides can be fine. I find having just enough blade sticking out for the thickness is best.
A firewood quality table saw with crappy blade and wobbly guides will destroy your project.