5:1 would be lower block triple with cleat, upper block double plus becket.
If the boom doesn't go out to 90deg, you might be buying quite a few metres more rope than needed?I've found somewhere which has the Lewmar blocks needed for a single ended 6:1.
If I take the length of the boom as two sides of a right angles triangle, work out the length of the 3rd side, x 6 and add a few metres, will this be roughly the length of sheet I need?
Or really I should to set it up and measure?
If the boom doesn't go out to 90deg, you might be buying quite a few metres more rope than needed?
Would you let the traveller off to save a few metres?
It's not just the cost of extra, but the tangle potential and cockpit clutter.
But if you are only going to it once a fortnight then there is no rush to get it - is thereYes, that's a good point. Only getting to the boat every other week at the moment so there is a bit of a trade off between paying for surplus line which I may want to trim off, and waiting another fortnight to complete the job.
But if you are only going to it once a fortnight then there is no rush to get it - is there![]()
Hello. You've linked to the Easymatic 1, the blurb for which states Approx Max Boat Size: 32' As the Fulmar is at the top end of that, I take it it's still easily manageable and not worth going up to the size 2? Thanks.You currently have an Easy Marine EasyMatic block system. This is what I have on my Fulmar. I chipped one of the block cheaks and replaced both blocks as I like the coarse and fine control the double cam cleats. They are available through Seamark Nunn. This link shows the lower block and there is a link to the upper block on the page. Total cost is £259.57, not cheap but they do work well.
Easy Marine Easymatic 1 Lower Double Violin Block 6:1 / 3:1 with Double Easy Servo Cleat 93102
The mainsail on my Fulmar is large as she is a 3/4 rig with 253 sq ft area. I have no problem handling that sail area. The 3:1 ratio is great for gybes, but the 6:1 is powerful enough (I am known to carry full sail for longer than most sailors!). The only mistake I made is to have a single sheet, not a jointed loop, and have to centre the sheet as I have managed to pull it tight on one side. Not a major problem if you fine adjust on the windward jamber.Hello. You've linked to the Easymatic 1, the blurb for which states Approx Max Boat Size: 32' As the Fulmar is at the top end of that, I take it it's still easily manageable and not worth going up to the size 2? Thanks.
Moving the mainsheet forward, check it does not foul the sprayhood when the sheet is eased. In the past a previous owner moved the mainsheet to just in front of the helmsman and divided the cockpit. Another owner then moved it aft again and that is where it has remained. Another consideration against the forward position is it will make sitting with your feet up on cockpit seat will become very uncomfortable. I find my compasses bad enough in my back, rather than a pain in the butt.I have the Concerto system on my Seawolf and it works well. On the project Fulmar (same rig size) I will use it too. But am moving the traveller to front of cockpit. Not keen on the mainsheet strangling the crew.
On the Seawolf there is some fouling of the sprayhood but it's not too much of a problem. The main issue for the Fulmar - as you raise - is sitting with your back to the bulkhead. There is no way that the track can be lowered beneath the seat level so it will always be there. There will also be compasses. The only solution is cushions. And I am getting on, anyway.Moving the mainsheet forward, check it does not foul the sprayhood when the sheet is eased. In the past a previous owner moved the mainsheet to just in front of the helmsman and divided the cockpit. Another owner then moved it aft again and that is where it has remained. Another consideration against the forward position is it will make sitting with your feet up on cockpit seat will become very uncomfortable. I find my compasses bad enough in my back, rather than a pain in the butt.
Also moving the genoa winches from the end of the coach roof to the cockpit coaming is definitely worth doing.
My Fulmar has the mainsheet traveller across the bridgedeck, done by a previous owner. It works fine, and the boom doesn’t foul the sprayhood in my case (that could depend on the cut of your main).On the Seawolf there is some fouling of the sprayhood but it's not too much of a problem. The main issue for the Fulmar - as you raise - is sitting with your back to the bulkhead. There is no way that the track can be lowered beneath the seat level so it will always be there. There will also be compasses. The only solution is cushions. And I am getting on, anyway.
Yes, genoa winches are going on the coaming. Best place for them.
Is it a short track? I bought a long one to go across the width of the cockpit. Just wondering how best to take up the slope of the seats. Probably an epoxy mix rather than wooden wedges.My Fulmar has the mainsheet traveller across the bridgedeck, done by a previous owner. It works fine, and the boom doesn’t foul the sprayhood in my case (that could depend on the cut of your main).
Have you got an image so that I can see if it's what I am planning?It crosses in front of the bulkhead, so it’s the width of the cockpit seats, and yes there are some thin hardwood wedges to level it.
I can take a pic when I’m at the boat tomorrow morning.Have you got an image so that I can see if it's what I am planning?
Thank you. I used one when I crewed on a Seawolf 26 and always thought it was rather good. Now looking to set up our Fulmar how we want it instead of "it'll do"!The mainsail on my Fulmar is large as she is a 3/4 rig with 253 sq ft area. I have no problem handling that sail area. The 3:1 ratio is great for gybes, but the 6:1 is powerful enough (I am known to carry full sail for longer than most sailors!). The only mistake I made is to have a single sheet, not a jointed loop, and have to centre the sheet as I have managed to pull it tight on one side. Not a major problem if you fine adjust on the windward jamber.