Length of Mooring Warps

[fluffc]

Simple question.

How long should I make a set of "universal" pontoon mooring warps for my boat. (I'm usually in a mud berth with permanant lines and only visit marinas as necessary)

I assume a pair of Bow/Stern lines and two springs; what length should each one be to be useful?

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[GSCrawford]

I do not think that a set of warps just for a marina is good practice. I use at least 4
in number of nylon 3 strand 16 mm at least twice the lenght of my boat with a big soft eye in one end at least 15 inches long.
It is good seamanship to put the eye ashore on the cleat and take the slack aboard, you can then use the slack as a spring or breast rope if required, this allows others to use the same cleat, remember to "dip the eye" if there is aleady a mooring on the cleat.
Regards
Graham


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[tillergirl]

one and a half times the length of your boat will give you enough to do a head warp (or stern) and then enough for one spring. ie two at that length will do the whole trick. If you are rafting up, that length will also give you a chance of enough to run lines to the dock.

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[copterdoctor]

Don't forget you may well need shore lines if alongside another boat.

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[philip_stevens]

I saw a rope length guide in one of the boat show handouts a few years ago - I think it may have been Jimmy Green.

The recommendation was,
Head/stern lines = 1.5 to 2 times boat length (1.75?),
Breast lines = .75 boat of boat length, and
Springs = 1.25 times boat length.

These are the lengths of my boat lines.

<hr width=100% size=1>regards,
Philip

 

[Talbot]

somebody has already mentioned shore lines, but I would disagree on one aspect of the shore lines. You are far better using a bowline on your shore lines, cause if you are on a reasonable raft, trying to sort out your shoreline from all the others can be a nightmare, whereas it is easy to just undo the bowline and pull it clear.

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[john_morris_uk]

You can't undo a bowline when its under strain, but you can always undo a round turn and two half hitches...

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[webcraft]

Does it matter?

You never know where pontoon cleats will be - there is no universal situation.

I find it handy to use longer lines and use the surplus as a spring - that way only two lines are needed. Ideal way is to take the stern/bow line back to the boat then use the surplus as a spring. When leaving the springs usually come off first then you can slip the bow/stern lines. Only time this is not so good is if you need to spring off, so arrange it so you can disconnect the spring last if necessary.

Ideal length for this is maybe 2 x boat length. This will also be long enough to use in many tidal wall situations as well.

- Nick


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[Talbot]

<<You can't undo a bowline when its under strain>>

You cant take an eye off a bollard when its under strain either, /forums/images/icons/smile.gif most people tend to slack off their lines when removing them! personnally I prefer using a bowline.

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[ChrisE]

There are sometimes when that is impossible to dump the load due to wind, etc. I once had to cut my warps to leave a berth when we couldn't undo a bowline due to extreme surge. Round turn and three half hitches every time.

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[capt_courageous]

Philip's recommendation is more or less what I have and they work well. There is nothing worse than the character who ties up next to you using one endless rope like a cats cradle. It seems they cannot face cutting it into pieces.

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[maxi]

NEVER one line to do both breast rope and spring duties, as mentioned elsewhere, you have no means of adjusting or letting go quickly in emergency. When mooring in a trot, you should send the eye of your line to your new neighbour, and keep the length of the warp on your own boat, thereby ensuring that you can adjust or let go readily.

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[Guest]

I like 2 bow lines length of boat. 1 bow line 2x boat. Same for stern lines.
Springs to be boat length
1 warp to be 6x boat length for towing / all other.

So mooring purps : 6 lines at 1x boat length, 2 lines 2x boat length.

I also like a light 4mm throwing line of about 15 - 20 mtrs with a lump on end. My 3 ton 25ftr has 12mm lines.

Spare lines of about 1.5x boat length are handy and well advised to have and can be lighter to aid handling ... say for me about 10mm.

My personal tip > Lines should be doubled back to a boat - but each part should be made fast ashore .... when getting ready to depart ..... change to lines passed around shore cleat / bollard so that they can be slipped from boat deck. Thats how I do it and often single-handed ....


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[SlowlyButSurely]

Simple answer:

You need 4 lines 40ft long which will enable you to moor to any pontoon, plus 4 lines 100ft long for rafting.


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[PhilF]

if the eye is ashore, how do you leave without reversing the ropes before you go aboard?

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[Guest]

I have yet to see yachts practice a common ship practice of passing an eye up through anothr rope eye before dropping over a cleat or bollard. This then allows any rope to be cast off without casting off all the others fist to get to yours at bottom.

Does any yacht course show this ?? I know it would be impossible to get every one to do it, but still interesting little trick.


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[GSCrawford]

Sailing singlehanded will soon get the answer to this, temporary breast ropes
made fast while the others are recovered is one way, and I have seen a cleat amidships with a slip rope to the pontoon used. but its a matter individual choice
You are always learing in the sailing game. I got a lot of my seamanship from the Grey Funnel line, pity the RNR is now almost extinct
Regards
Graham

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[whisper]

I do this regularly. Taught by our Day Skipper tutor many moons ago. Is there a prize by any chance ?

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[peterb]

It's certainly shown on my courses. And it's one reason why I rarely use a round turn and two half hitches; it makes it much more difficult for other people to use loops.

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[bob_tyler]

Prior to letting go I tend to single up on the last two warps after releasing any others and bringing them aboard.

The last two will then slip easily.

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