Leaving anchorage under sail

Use the mainsail sheeted hard in and tack.....inefficiently.....up to the anchor. Haul chain when it's slack as you sail past. Snub, tack, repeat. Surprisingly effective.
Precisely as I had intended to answer Capnsensible's question. However, I have only ever done this in a 5.7metre dayboat in which it was possible to pull in some chain from below the fairlead, (these boats didn't have a bow roller), and haul it back along the side of the boat, towards the shrouds, so as to bias the boat away from the head-to-wind attitude, with the object of establishing forward motion as soon as the sails are sheeted in.
Perhaps I'll try rehearsing this in my 30-footer in the coming season.
 
Precisely as I had intended to answer Capnsensible's question. However, I have only ever done this in a 5.7metre dayboat in which it was possible to pull in some chain from below the fairlead, (these boats didn't have a bow roller), and haul it back along the side of the boat, towards the shrouds, so as to bias the boat away from the head-to-wind attitude, with the object of establishing forward motion as soon as the sails are sheeted in.
Perhaps I'll try rehearsing this in my 30-footer in the coming season.
My own school yacht was a Jenneau 36.2. Used to do this a few times on every course. Also many other Ben Jen Bav of similar size. (y)
 
I find some difficulty in a narrow anchorage if I have to turn downwind 180° to get out. For that, I don't hoist the mizzen, and she who does the anchor handling, doesn't like the genoa flapping about her, so I'm stuck with just the main, until the foredeck is clear. Under mainsail only, the boat won't turn downwind. Apart from that, unless it's a busy place, it's usually manageable.
The genoa doesn’t have to be an all or nothing thing. If departing under sail (more often a mooring than anchor, as use electric anchor windlass) we unfurl just 2-3 feet of foresail. Generally this is small enough and high enough not to get in the way of foredeck work. Then grab a sheet and back the mini foresail to ensure the boat pays off in the correct direction.
Once back in cockpit release the rest of the genoa.
 
I must admit, we wouldn’t attempt this. The issue isn’t so much steering under sail as what happens when the anchor breaks out. Pulling that last bit in is difficult enough, you don’t need the water moving past at 6kn plus, with the anchor fluttering about, potentially hitting the hull.
 
I must admit, we wouldn’t attempt this. The issue isn’t so much steering under sail as what happens when the anchor breaks out. Pulling that last bit in is difficult enough, you don’t need the water moving past at 6kn plus, with the anchor fluttering about, potentially hitting the hull.
Gets rid of the mud......

You can always reef the main right down. Sailing slowly under control is almost as good as dashing away. :)
 
I only practice this in light or moderate wind, typically after a lunch stop, when the anchor isn't deeply set (in which case the engine would have had be started anyway, just to break it out).
As noted, if moored to a buoy it is much easier, as the strop can be taken to one side, to get the bow in the desired direction. Much more awkward to do so with the anchor chain, which is retrieved through the bow roller fitting.
 
Slowly and under control under sail is not always a tri thing, just saying. And bear in mind it’s very rarely more than 2 of us on board. If you’ve got 4 students, you’ve got a man for every line.

We’d happily leave a buoy under sail, that’s just waiting your moment, ditching it and popping the jib out.
 
Nothing very dreadful happens if you pull the anchor up with no sails set. It's often possible to drift into clear space where you can let out a bit of genoa (or sheet in the bit you have been using at the bow to get it pointing the right road) and off you go.
Best to put the engine on for the first few goes if you are in a crowd.
 
Nothing very dreadful happens if you pull the anchor up with no sails set. It's often possible to drift into clear space where you can let out a bit of genoa (or sheet in the bit you have been using at the bow to get it pointing the right road) and off you go.
Best to put the engine on for the first few goes if you are in a crowd.

Lacking the gid captain’s electric windlass, and having 2 extra hulls, this would be what I’d do, but maybe not in Newtown Creek on a summer Saturday.
 
The genoa doesn’t have to be an all or nothing thing. If departing under sail (more often a mooring than anchor, as use electric anchor windlass) we unfurl just 2-3 feet of foresail. Generally this is small enough and high enough not to get in the way of foredeck work. Then grab a sheet and back the mini foresail to ensure the boat pays off in the correct direction.
Once back in cockpit release the rest of the genoa.
That's what I do, as the boat will not fall off the wind with just the main.
I have an electric windlass. What's the relevance? Ah, yes, in deep water, or indeed any time that there would be a lot of weight on the windlass, I would probably have the engine on anyway.
 
I have found that backing the rudders (it's a cat) and holding them using the self steering ram with the tillers pointing to the chosen tack is pretty reliable. Once the anchor comes free the boat drifts astern and the stalled rudder turn the boat, jib out and trimmed then hoist the main. To hoist my fully battened square top main at anchor would end in tears.
We can do the same with our monohull. Works well
 
42 ft sloop, long overhangs, keel hung rudder, displacement about 10 tons.
Normally, where I sailed I could exit an anchorage under jib as it would be a run or reach then hoist main in clear water, also anchorages were rarely crowded.
Working jib hanked on and loosely secured along guard rail on intended windward side. Windward sheet secured on winch with some slack.
Bring in the chain until anchor almost ready to break out. Return to cockpit for final check and put wheel over so rudder turned towards intended windward side and secure with becket.
Bring anchor to stem head, boat is starting to make sternway and rudder starting a swing.
Release jib lashings.
Hoist jib as far as practical (halyards at mast).
Backed jib causes head to pay off.
Return to cockpit, tack jib, leaving sheet with slack, steer towards safe exit course and lock windvane gear.
Return to mast and fully hoist jib.
Stow anchor.
Once in clear water round up and hoist main.

That was in the 80's when I was a lot younger and fitter, and even more foolish. It was a bit easier with a charter or sailing course crew and gave them a sense of achievement. However, I always worked on the basis that no matter how many in the crew I had to be able to handle the boat safely by myself.
 
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