Laminating Timbers (again)

[Roach1948]

I have recently stripped back the engine bay to bare wood ready for repainting before the engine goes in and I have found three cracked frames I had not noticed before. Its very annoying as I spent a huge amount of effort steaming and riveting green oak sisters to the rest of the yacht last year. I dont have the time this time as I am scheduled to put the new engine in this weekend and I want the engine bay ready.

I am very tempted to laminate up sisters with West and screw in with siBronze screws before the weekend comes. I don't want to delay the whole job. I have read previous posts on laminating up and the advice seems negative. Steaming seems the way to go on this forum, but I have a) recently painted the topsides and b) on my own this week with no (riveting) help at hand. Does anybody out there endorse this screw and glue apporach?

Please note my hull is splined so she does not move as much as traditional caulked hulls.

 

[ccscott49]

I reckon laminating with Bronze screws is a very good method, just dont glue the frames to the planking, you may want to remove them at a later date and fit new frames. I would also countersink and plug the screw heads on the outside, just as a precaution.

 

[Roach1948]

So screw in from the outside in rather than what I was thinking, more inside out? I thought my paint job my be shot then. I have 3/4" planking and 3/4" timbers - so was thinking of 1.1/4" screws so I don't penetrate the hull, but have a good amount of "bedding" in the planking.

 

[ccscott49]

Yep you could do just that, then no need to plug. Didn't think of it that way, but theres always more than one way to skin a pussy! Saves the paint job. I thought these frames were below the waterline, so wouldnt be a big job, just a bit of antifoul.

 

[EASLOOP]

The person running the boatyard where my wooden sloop was stored, a keen wooden boat person himself, once told me that there was nothing wrong with using screws to fasten planks as long as the screw went right through to the inside of the hull. I guess this is because screws are tapered and if the screw only goes part way through the work the holding power will be reduced. By having the screw pass through the job then the fattest part of the screw will be fully used.
Make sense??

Just a thought.

 

[Roach1948]

I've spoken to several people now and what you say is true. Will screw from the outside in countersinking the screw heads.