Keel repair - PICS

[rob2]

There are a couple of interesting sites with details of the Tur 80. The original spec is an iron keel with a keel hung rudder, although some have had the rudder fixed centrally and a transom hung rudder added. If those construction details apply to your boat then you should be pleasantly surprised when you sart digging around. You should find a solid iron keel under all that GRP, which can be cleaned back, primed and the GRP shape rebuilt.

Try Googling "Tur 80" and you will find quite a bit of information, including an owners' forum (in Swedish!).

Looks a very nice boat!

Rob.

 

[Deleted member 36384]

Good information on the link below to help with repairs. I used to be involved with charter boats and its not uncommon for there to be nothing behind the toe of the keel if its encapsulated. On my Rival 41C you can see the where the encapsulated ballast is by the condensation on the hull (when she is out the water). Tapping on the hull does indicate a hollow toe on my boat. So it may not be such a big issue that there is a void.

The link: http://www.westsystem.com/ss/fiberglass-boat-repair-and-restoration/

Good luck with the repairs.

 

[Cymrogwyllt]

If you make an error and end up with white patches (voids) just grind them out and re-do. Everything is recoverable.

Tip for the novice user-

It's best to keep the beard away from the resin when wroking in confined spaces, it's an ouch thing or scissor thing. Please don't ask how I know that.

 

[Tranona]

Good information on the link below to help with repairs. I used to be involved with charter boats and its not uncommon for there to be nothing behind the toe of the keel if its encapsulated. On my Rival 41C you can see the where the encapsulated ballast is by the condensation on the hull (when she is out the water). Tapping on the hull does indicate a hollow toe on my boat. So it may not be such a big issue that there is a void.

The link: http://www.westsystem.com/ss/fiberglass-boat-repair-and-restoration/

Good luck with the repairs.

Yes, the gaps are there so that the ballast is located where the designer wants it. The hollow toe does provided a sort of sacrificial area. However, not good if the ballast is steel punchings.

When I ballasted my Seawych I had to tip it on its nose so the resin and punchings formed a wedge in the front part of the keel pockets. The void at the back was filled with foam and glassed over. Many years later I saw my boat and the bottom of the keels had worn away like in the pic, water had got in rusted the steel and split the keels. The owner was a GRP worker and he chipped the ballast out, remade the keels and fortunately I still had the building instructions so that he was able to reballast correctly.

 

[steve28]

had to do the same with mine, emptied the whole keel though as the steel punchings were expanding. reballasting was done in stages of about 3 inches. the heat was incredible even so.

Steve