KAD running hot

petem said:
Thanks Bruce.

Next question! ...

This kit has two versions that include impeller covers. One has a grooved cover with a 'o' ring, the other has a flat cover with a gasket.

Are the covers (with and without grooves) interchangeable?

Water pump repair kit for Volvo Penta 860629 3583115 similar to 877373 3841697 - Price: €69,90
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Yes the cover plates are interchangeable. Depending on the cover plate use the appropriate gasket or o-ring. I prefer using the o-ring first and then when the plate wears will flip it and use gasket. Both gasket types come standard with the impeller
 
Before you rebuild the cooling pump, it would be worth your while popping to the local Mercadona Supermarket and buying 8 litres of aguafuerte (salfumante). Mix that 50:50 with water in a big plastic container from the local Chinese superstore and some cheap plastic piping to run it through the cooling system for 10 minutes with the engine idling to pump it all around. Let it stand for 10 minutes then repeat another 10 minutes of idling.

Reconnect the seawater pipe to the pump and exhaust elbow water pipe and then run seawater through it to rinse it all out. Then rebuild the raw water pump.
Pretty sure you engines will run a bit cooler afterwards.
 
kashurst said:
Before you rebuild the cooling pump, it would be worth your while popping to the local Mercadona Supermarket and buying 8 litres of aguafuerte (salfumante). Mix that 50:50 with water in a big plastic container from the local Chinese superstore and some cheap plastic piping to run it through the cooling system for 10 minutes with the engine idling to pump it all around. Let it stand for 10 minutes then repeat another 10 minutes of idling.

Reconnect the seawater pipe to the pump and exhaust elbow water pipe and then run seawater through it to rinse it all out. Then rebuild the raw water pump.
Pretty sure you engines will run a bit cooler afterwards.
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Ah thats an interesting one ... i know the procedure with the bilge pump for circulation but whats your exact setup to circulate it with the impellerpump and engine idling ? Where do you connect your piping exactly ?
 
Connect one pipe to the raw water pump inlet. The other pipe fits onto the main heat exchanger outlet that feeds into the exhaust elbow.
Make sure both pipe ends are well inside the plastic container. Fill with aguafuerte and water and start the engine.
It is a very popular solution to hot engines in Spain. Aguafuerte is very cheap and sold for cleaning limescale etc in bathrooms.

If the engine has zinc anodes they will likely disolve. So its best to do this process just before a full service. KAD engines do not have anodes in the heat exchangers so no problem.
 
Ok , that sounds good ! How do the guys do it on the water in a sterndrive without a seacock ? I highly doubt the heatexchanger outlet is above the waterline . Or only on land ?

Thank you sir for the very interesting information !
 
kashurst said:
Before you rebuild the cooling pump, it would be worth your while popping to the local Mercadona Supermarket and buying 8 litres of aguafuerte (salfumante). Mix that 50:50 with water in a big plastic container from the local Chinese superstore and some cheap plastic piping to run it through the cooling system for 10 minutes with the engine idling to pump it all around. Let it stand for 10 minutes then repeat another 10 minutes of idling.

Reconnect the seawater pipe to the pump and exhaust elbow water pipe and then run seawater through it to rinse it all out. Then rebuild the raw water pump.
Pretty sure you engines will run a bit cooler afterwards.
Click to expand...
Hi K, the cooling system was flushed last year and it as all dismantled and cleaned in the Spring. The exhaust elbow are recent as well.

So I think it could be one of the following:

1) Dials are over reading.
2) Seawater pump needs a re-build.
3) Thermostats.
4) An issue with the fresh water circulation system.

If the boat was in the UK I'd probably do an IR temperature test but my holiday time is valuable and I don't particularly want to faff around doing this with the mechanics.

To rebuild the seawater pump and replacement thermostats would probably cost £300 or so (or £100 split 3 ways as we share the boat). So whilst I'm not keen on throwing parts at an issue this might be the best way forward (if we don't have an issue no then this could avert a future issue).
 
petem said:
Hi K, the cooling system was flushed last year and it as all dismantled and cleaned in the Spring. The exhaust elbow are recent as well.

So I think it could be one of the following:

1) Dials are over reading.
2) Seawater pump needs a re-build.
3) Thermostats.
4) An issue with the fresh water circulation system.

If the boat was in the UK I'd probably do an IR temperature test but my holiday time is valuable and I don't particularly want to faff around doing this with the mechanics.

To rebuild the seawater pump and replacement thermostats would probably cost £300 or so (or £100 split 3 ways as we share the boat). So whilst I'm not keen on throwing parts at an issue this might be the best way forward (if we don't have an issue no then this could avert a future issue).
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Hang on Pete , refer to my post #5 .
You really need to IR gun it to get a definite Dx .

The IR gun £ 15 off eBay is an essential piece of kit to confirm diagnosis ( Dx ) .

Used it loads of time during boat ownership, to pin down issues successfully I might add and cheaply.

Recently I bought another Ferrari and it started to throw a “ slow down light “ to cut a long story short it’s to do with the CAT s , or sensors , or CAT ECU , possibly fuel regulator pressure - too much , ignition modules , leads and or plugs .
Sometimes it shut down annoyingly a whole cylinder bank on the V8 .= not good as intermittent.

Throwing parts on this makes VP prices look like chicken feed 😀. To go through a process of elimination.

So I got the very same IR gun I used on boat engines and took the temps of each and every exhaust manifold as the exist the cylinder all 8 . While it was running fine and when it threw a wobbler - dash light on .

Low and behold cylinder 3 on bank 1 was always cooler than the other 7 esp when the light came on .

That narrows it to a misfire = thus unburnt fuel enters the CAT and effects theCAT temp thus the sensors detect and throw a dash light . Once the temp drops out of preset range the whole cylinder bank shuts down .

Turned out it was a spark plug , one plug gone intermittently bad .
The history , FFSH showed recent plugs etc …all up to date and Ferrari wanted £300 / hr to DX .

But I fixed it myself fitting a new set of iridium plugs for £100 .

Point is you need an accurate DX
I can’t see how YOU have arrived at this without IR gunning the stat housing and comparing both engines .
As said the loom resistance in KAD s is known issue , an issue my VP tech knew about when I had that Sunseeker KAD 300 boat .
 
So just to follow on I had one engine showing something like 94 and the other 88 on the gauges .
When I came to sell it , fortunately I had the same IR gun , the buyers surveyor was informed at the sea trial ( run round the bay of Cannes ) and the buyer already had a Portofino 35 KAD engined in the Baltic and wanted a second to keep on a lake nearer his home in Germany .

The guy was a lotus franchisee , so knowledgeable with mech stuff and knew about the phantom temp readings and indeed on the second viewing did his own IR gun comparison to find they were both 88 or what ever .
To sale went to completion without this temp thing weaponised .
 
petem said:
Hi K, the cooling system was flushed last year and it as all dismantled and cleaned in the Spring. The exhaust elbow are recent as well.

So I think it could be one of the following:

1) Dials are over reading.
2) Seawater pump needs a re-build.
3) Thermostats.
4) An issue with the fresh water circulation system.

If the boat was in the UK I'd probably do an IR temperature test but my holiday time is valuable and I don't particularly want to faff around doing this with the mechanics.

To rebuild the seawater pump and replacement thermostats would probably cost £300 or so (or £100 split 3 ways as we share the boat). So whilst I'm not keen on throwing parts at an issue this might be the best way forward (if we don't have an issue no then this could avert a future issue).
Click to expand...
It's really easy. stick a length of black insulation tape on the thermostat housing and go for a ride. When its all warmed up, stop, lift the hatch and point the IR thermometer at the black tape. Leroy Merlin sell IR thermometers in some of their shops if you don't have one.
 
Having been involved in data gathering using IR sensors costing £1000's for 25 years and trying to get accurate readings where the relative emmissivity of different materials, colour and distance from the target all contribute to an accurate reading, I find it amazing that people think a £10 IR gun is going to prove something.
A useful tool for a quick check but you have to know it limitations.
 
Chris_d said:
Having been involved in data gathering using IR sensors costing £1000's for 25 years and trying to get accurate readings where the relative emmissivity of different materials, colour and distance from the target all contribute to an accurate reading, I find it amazing that people think a £10 IR gun is going to prove something.
A useful tool for a quick check but you have to know it limitations.
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Agree - but then how far does one go - most boaters rely on the temp gauges and how often do they get calibrated.
I am sure most like myself would go by the temp gauge and if it reads that it is getting too hot then if a cheap IR gun may give the same temp reading or somewhere near and then you would know something is a miss.
 
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