Just asking ... Vevor 40ltr Fridge vs built in

B27

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One point to consider: my Alpicool 32 is a bit noisy when running, at least compared to a remote compressor tucked away in a locker somewhere. One day I will fit a compressor to boats coolbox which currently has a power hungry Peltier unit (hence Alpicool).
My portable fridge is not exactly noisy, but neither is it silent.
I tend to switch it off overnight, it only gains a few degrees and we're only wanting to keep things like milk for a few days.
Obviously if you store high risk foods like raw chicken, make sure it stays cool enough.
 

geem

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My experience is that most built in fridges on boats over 15 years old have really poor insulation.

I have a portable fridge, not Vevor but generic 'Made in China', cost me about £200.
It's great.
We often load it up with pre-cooled stuff and a frozen pre-cooked meal and the compressor doesn't even run until the next day.
I've left it running for a long while ashore, it averages less than 20Wh per 24hrs.

If I was wanting to be independent of shops for several days at a stretch, I might consider seriously insulating the built-in cool box, and using my portable fridge for frozen stuff. I could even freeze 'cold blocks' to put in the cool box.

If you want several days of four people drinking gallons of chilled drinks etc, you will want a lot more volume though.
If you're going to do the ARC, you'll want a big built in fridge and/or freezer.
what you need volume wise depends more on how many people you have onboard for a transat. We run our 100L fridge with inbuilt 10L freezer, for all the stuff that doesn't squash easily. The 42L portable fridge has poor insulation so we use it as our warm fridge. Keeping it at circa 7/10degC puts less demand on the poor insulation and it perfect for keeping fruit and veg. Keeping all the fruit and veg together reduces how much stuff gets damaged.
We normally transatlantic with just the 2 of us and it plenty big enough with an overall low power demand. It makes little sense, energy wise to run a fridge with poor insulation as a freezer, if you have a better option
 

Refueler

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My experience is that most built in fridges on boats over 15 years old have really poor insulation.

I have a portable fridge, not Vevor but generic 'Made in China', cost me about £200.
It's great.
We often load it up with pre-cooled stuff and a frozen pre-cooked meal and the compressor doesn't even run until the next day.
I've left it running for a long while ashore, it averages less than 20Wh per 24hrs.

If I was wanting to be independent of shops for several days at a stretch, I might consider seriously insulating the built-in cool box, and using my portable fridge for frozen stuff. I could even freeze 'cold blocks' to put in the cool box.

If you want several days of four people drinking gallons of chilled drinks etc, you will want a lot more volume though.
If you're going to do the ARC, you'll want a big built in fridge and/or freezer.

My Vevor sits near my desk supplying me with cold Draught Guinness ...... most time I can hardly hear it ...
 

Refueler

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My cruising is Baltics .... longest stint between shops ? maybe 4 days ... can be longer if deep in the Stockholm Archi - some of the best island stops are basically couple of summer houses only - so no shops.
 

B27

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My Vevor sounds just about same as the Fridge Freezer in the kitchen at home ...
Difference might be I don't sleep in the kitchen at home!

The noise is not a problem, it's that it might switch on at $AM or so.
I'd probably notice the change in noise.

The main noise on my boat at the moment is one of those solar powered fan vent things.
Worn out I guess.
 

William_H

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My experience with a small portable compressor fridge freezer is that the insulation is quite poor. I imagine your installed fridge would have much better insulation. Assuming gas is correct it should be more efficient. I also imagine your small portable fridge will be a bit of a nuisance to stow some where out of the way. Anyway take both. Your experience cruising will soon tell you the best way. Best wishes for the cruise. ol'will
 

Fr J Hackett

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My experience with a small portable compressor fridge freezer is that the insulation is quite poor. I imagine your installed fridge would have much better insulation. Assuming gas is correct it should be more efficient. I also imagine your small portable fridge will be a bit of a nuisance to stow some where out of the way. Anyway take both. Your experience cruising will soon tell you the best way. Best wishes for the cruise. ol'will
The OP initially said his installed fridge didn't feel as cold as the portable, it may just be because of it's volume and he hadn't run it for long enough with it filled or as you and I indicated the compressor may need regassing. However his boat is old probably 80s vintage and my experience says that builders then didn't bother very much with insulation or installation of cold boxes.
 

B27

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The OP initially said his installed fridge didn't feel as cold as the portable, it may just be because of it's volume and he hadn't run it for long enough with it filled or as you and I indicated the compressor may need regassing. However his boat is old probably 80s vintage and my experience says that builders then didn't bother very much with insulation or installation of cold boxes.
One can do some objective tests, like freezing a few 2 litre bottles of water and seeing how long they take to defrost, or running the fridge via an amp-hour meter.
Putting your hand into the empty air space of a fridge can be deceptive. Still air is a fair insulator,
A fridge thermometer is a few quid.
 

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The OP initially said his installed fridge didn't feel as cold as the portable, it may just be because of it's volume and he hadn't run it for long enough with it filled or as you and I indicated the compressor may need regassing. However his boat is old probably 80s vintage and my experience says that builders then didn't bother very much with insulation or installation of cold boxes.


Oi !! 1986 'vintage' .... oldie but goldie !! ;)

The fridge - I would assume given the way the platform has been installed under the sinks - is a later addition ... as many do to older boats - they convert the 'ice box' ...

It has a serious compressor tucked away at back under the sinks .. its not the usual small job I've seen on other boats.

It has full thermostatic control and a dual temp readout ... giving ambient cabin as well as fridge temp.

Photo again ... the blue large knob to left is the variable control. To the right upper centre is the Temp display.

BurN66Gl.jpg


The fridge temp quick;ly drops when switched on ...

Will try the frozen test as Will suggests .... maybe I'll be pleasantly surprised ... I know when I sailed one time at end of season - the domestic batterys were flat overnight when it was left running ... but then we found that one of the batterys was dead - so the other had no chance ... Of course because of lack of wind - the engine charging hid the fact.
 

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Today I decided to leave domestic 12v on and set fridge unit at 50% mark on control. Cabin temp was 25C ... within an hour or so - fridge was down to 13C and reducing.
The compressor runs for so long - then stops ... after a period restarts and it cycles like that while temp continues to drop.

The domestic battery bank (2x 90A/hr Lead Acids) are connected to a smart charger that cuts in when battery drops below a set figure ... I know this will throw off the battery capability for the fridge - but I want to see what the fridge does .. THEN look at duration without charger.

I am 'driving' my MoBo to the Lifter in the harbour tomorrow - so will be checking again fridge ...

Insulation ... packing case foam sheet 40mm thick all round .... so not bad ... only the lid is thinner at 15mm fixed to the plywood lid.
 

Refueler

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OK ... all still running and charger just about keeping up with fridge ... its a Lidl copy of the Ctek 5A smart charger.

So deiced to push the limits ... fridge to max ... charger still connected.

Next day - charger shows error ... compressor stopped ... fridge temp : 17C ... cabin : 25C.

Disconnected charger - reconnected ... it started charging showing 12.2V.

Unfortunately charger does not show amps - only volts.

Brought on board two other chargers ... a) one a max 10A smart charger. b) Another a Charger / Booster unit ... up to 20A on auto or if wanting to boost a battery to get a start .. 75A ! Both have amps out displays.

Connected a) and set to max with fridge on 50% .... 3.8A shown ... CV mode stated on screen .. indicating that charger was basically powering the fridge....

Disconnected and connected b) .... max auto ... now this display showed 15A but quickly falling back to 8 - 9A ... indicating it was charging battery as well as powering frridge ....

Conclusion : Fridge needs too much power and needs a regime where ample power such as alternator or high amp charger is available ... It will need support from the Vevor portable unit

Or a system that can switch from alternator to a separate dedicated mains powered PSU .....

just thoughts ... many modellers convert PC power blocks into high power 12v PSU bases ... I have two HP units capable of up to 1300W ...

HP PSU.jpg

Its an example .. and I know its not marine grade / proof against marine environment ... pity ! It could just about power everything !!
 

Refueler

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Is that the difference between chargers only and chargers with power supply option?

mmm not quite with you ??

The b) charger has the high 75A boost rate switch option to put a quick charge into a battery so you can at least attempt a start within short time of connecting. Its not for long term use or to power items.
 

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Our victron charger has multi stage charge mode and also 12v power supply mode, assume the power supply mode is variable current demand with stable voltage of 12v and allows for extended operation.
 
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Refueler

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Our victron charger has multi stage charge mode and also 12v power supply mode, assume the power supply mode is variable current demand with stable voltage of 12v and allows for extended operation.

Its very difficult to find chargers now that are not Smart and with multi stage charge modes. In fact that can be a pain if you want to use such as a Kemo or other solid state splitter to charge two battery banks. The Splitter monitors the batterys and then sends charge to which one is lowest ... reducing to trickle once charged.
Smart chargers don't like this and will refuse to charge.... or when splitter shuts off .. charger shuts off and refuses to start charging again when splitter detects need.

For such splitters - the older non smart dumb chargers are best ... because the splitter basically shuts off charge at full - but resumes when battery is used ... and needs topping up.

Example :

Kemo M102A

M102A Second battery charger 6 - 24 V/DC
 

William_H

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That HP computer power supply would be very good but I think you will find the 12v output is just that. Exactly 12v so not much good at charging a battery. Ok if you connect fridge direct to PSU but put abttery on line and battery will supply all current until it is down to 12v. Of course you could get 15.3 volts if you connect from the -12v to the +3.3v but then limited to 1 amp. ol'will
 
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