Joining chain...... or not

In reply to Vyv.
When others were looking for these links, and Stu was sourcing them, I placed an order with our local Crosby agent and they were duly received. I have not offered them for sale until now, as I felt they were a bit expensive (about the same as Stu's)
Today I have had two enquiries and have offered them at my cost (£12)plus postage for a 10mm link.

Michael.
Ive got another batch on order, have had them on order for the last 3 weeks, should be another 2 weeks, apparantly we haqve cleaned Crosby out of stock. I am charging £13 including post so about the same.
Stu
 
Hi Chaps,

I'm wanting to put more chain into my anchor rode and was wondering what you guys think.

Options seem to be either adding an additional length onto my current amount with one of those 'joining link' things or scrapping the current amount and buying a complete new length. Sadly this year I'm on a very limited budget while I am 'between jobs' as it were so things are very price sensitive.

I currently have 20m but would feel happier with 40m aboard.

The questions are:
Is the joining link the best thing to use?
Is there a better way of joining chain? (I don't have a gypsy for the chain to fit around)
Or is a joined length going to compromise my safety too much?

What does the panel think?

I had the EXACT same dilemma a couple of seasons ago and I done this..
Went, with both lengths of chain to a welder. He cut 1 link at 45 degrees, attached the lengths then welded the link back together. I stress 45 degrees and not 90 as the more weld there is, the stronger the link will be. Painted with galvanized paint.. no probs:)

We anchor, 95% of the time and it has worked in hard blows, and I never think about it failing!
 
But is it possible to do all that on a 6 or 8 mm link? I wouldn't call myself a welder, but that seems like a hell of a fiddly job.

On a mooring ground chain or something it seems more plausible.

Pete
On 8mm yes, on 6mm no need for 2 passes/side - only need one one side, one the other. Oh, and yes it is a bit fiddly but more secure than a split link.
 
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On 8mm yes, on 6mm no need for 2 passes/side - only need one one side, one the other. Oh, and yes it is a bit fiddly but more secure than a split link.

Not according to the test results in the Yachting Mags.

But I always believe what they say. You may be an Enguneer with many years welding behind you.

I use the link and not a weld.

Peter
 
Not according to the test results in the Yachting Mags.

But I always believe what they say.
Your choice but I take all those sort of test results with a pinch of salt

You may be an Enguneer with many years welding behind you.
Metallurgist actually with over 35 years in the welding game with a lot of it dealing with developing procedures for welding alloy and exotic materials.

I use the link and not a weld.

Peter
Your choice - I prefer to use welded links
 
WELDING

On 8mm yes, on 6mm no need for 2 passes/side - only need one one side, one the other. Oh, and yes it is a bit fiddly but more secure than a split link.

As Cliff says welding the link, if done correctly and with the correct filler rod will be stronger than any joining link.
 
As Cliff says welding the link, if done correctly and with the correct filler rod will be stronger than any joining link.

Cliff's welder probably charges a minimum of an hour for a job like that and bearing in mind his skill and the cost of the equipment we are probably talking £50 per hour? Makes it a pretty expensive join.

I can't speak for anyone else's tensile test results but mine were conducted on a calibrated tensile test machine under my supervision. The results can be found on my website. A good link, designed for lifting and hoisting duties, such as Crosby, ACCO (if they remain the same as they were when tested), Seafit as sold by West Marine, see here will have strength very close to or greater than that of the chain.
 
Guys,

This has been an interesting and informative thread. Thanks for your input.
On the back of it I will either go for back to back shackles or if I get some paid work in the near future I'll go the whole hog and purchase a complete new single length of chain.

(Anyone want to buy a less than one year old 20m length of 8mm galv chain? If so send me a PM).

Regards,
David H.
 
Cliff's welder probably charges a minimum of an hour for a job like that and bearing in mind his skill and the cost of the equipment we are probably talking £50 per hour? Makes it a pretty expensive join.

I can't speak for anyone else's tensile test results but mine were conducted on a calibrated tensile test machine under my supervision. The results can be found on my website. A good link, designed for lifting and hoisting duties, such as Crosby, ACCO (if they remain the same as they were when tested), Seafit as sold by West Marine, see here will have strength very close to or greater than that of the chain.

Just had our chain increased to 80m from 50m by Bradney Chain Birmingham. They welded on another 30m and then iissued a test certificate to the appropriate code. So hopefully all will be well when we get to the Med, if we don't sink bows first.
 
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