beneteau_305_553
Well-Known Member
Can you get shackles to join 8 mm chain to go over a windlass ?My chain is only 20 m and I would like to extend it to 40 metres
Joining anchor chain?
- Thread starter beneteau_305_553
- Start date
barryflood22
N/A
Re: Joining anchor chain? *DELETED*
Post deleted by danfoley
Post deleted by danfoley
john_morris_uk
Well-Known Member
[ QUOTE ]
im sure you can! give my dad a ring and he will sort you out!!, 028 82 246539 (www.floodmarine.co.uk)
[/ QUOTE ]Asking about your website design and appearance might be ok, but blatant advertising like this and you might find your post pulled.
Your enthusiasm to support your dad is admirable, but you are risking upsetting YBW and the people who use this site....
im sure you can! give my dad a ring and he will sort you out!!, 028 82 246539 (www.floodmarine.co.uk)
[/ QUOTE ]Asking about your website design and appearance might be ok, but blatant advertising like this and you might find your post pulled.
Your enthusiasm to support your dad is admirable, but you are risking upsetting YBW and the people who use this site....
wotayottie
Well-Known Member
joining chain is one of those decisions that you will take easily and then worry about when the wind is howling and you are miles away from a chandler.
Dont do it. Grit your teeth and buy a new 40m length. Flog the old chain at a boat jumble.
Alternatively, attach 30m of decent nylon rope to the existing chain
Dont do it. Grit your teeth and buy a new 40m length. Flog the old chain at a boat jumble.
Alternatively, attach 30m of decent nylon rope to the existing chain
Bodach na mara
Well-Known Member
I have used ordinary shackles of appropriate size and the problem I have occasionally had is failure to go down the deck hole, and sometimes to come up. They have never given a problem at the gypsy. The other two have always yielded to a bit of wiggling of the chain.
That said, I was out for a walk to get the paper just now and saw just the thing needed. Attaching chain to a post in the park was a galvanised shackle with a recessed pin and where the bit with the hole for the spike should be is a flat head with an Allen key socket. I am sure these must be available from a chandler or agricultural ironmonger. The one I saw was the wromg size for my chain. Not that I would go for a walk with a sset of Allen keys in my pocket!
That said, I was out for a walk to get the paper just now and saw just the thing needed. Attaching chain to a post in the park was a galvanised shackle with a recessed pin and where the bit with the hole for the spike should be is a flat head with an Allen key socket. I am sure these must be available from a chandler or agricultural ironmonger. The one I saw was the wromg size for my chain. Not that I would go for a walk with a sset of Allen keys in my pocket!
willie4646
Well-Known Member
Try this link www.kylechandlers.co.uk/showcategory.asp?CategoryID=7578
Willie
Willie
Eygthene
Well-Known Member
Haven't there been some incidents of premature failures of this type of chain-joining link reported in PBO or in YM in the past couple of years?
Shanty
Well-Known Member
Chain joining links of this type are a good solution, but not the Plastimo ones - look at the SWL. Its quoted as 150kg, with no indication of the factor of safety used. 8mm will have a SWL of about 1 - 2 tonnes (from memory).
Crosby manufacture a chain joining link that looks very similar, but has a SWL more in line with that of the chain. Get them from folk selling lifting tackle. I would be happy using a Crosby link. Under no circumstances would I use a Plastimo, or un-named link on an anchor warp.
I too seem to recall an article on this in one of the yachting comics reasonably recently.
Crosby manufacture a chain joining link that looks very similar, but has a SWL more in line with that of the chain. Get them from folk selling lifting tackle. I would be happy using a Crosby link. Under no circumstances would I use a Plastimo, or un-named link on an anchor warp.
I too seem to recall an article on this in one of the yachting comics reasonably recently.
ShipsWoofy
Well-Known Member
Yes, Vyv-cox and a.n.other tested all sorts of connectors.
He cost me money as I went straight out and bought proper yellow painted calibrated shackles from Jimmy Green.. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
As for the chain, why not take it to a smithy and get a new link added, you should only have to pay for a tiny dip in the galvy tank around the area of the join too.
This is what smithys do, so if he is reputable I would trust his link as much as the rest.
He cost me money as I went straight out and bought proper yellow painted calibrated shackles from Jimmy Green.. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
As for the chain, why not take it to a smithy and get a new link added, you should only have to pay for a tiny dip in the galvy tank around the area of the join too.
This is what smithys do, so if he is reputable I would trust his link as much as the rest.
Longshanks
Well-Known Member
I've got the same issue. In fact my chain has got two "doubtful" connectors, but thankfully beyond 30m. Where can we get the Crosby ones?
Shanty
Well-Known Member
If you're anywhere near Inverness, try Weldex. Failing that try Googling "Crosby lifting tackle". Lots of lifting equipment firms stock Crosby, & I'm sure you'll find one near you.
Chris_Robb
Well-Known Member
From Selby engineering - 01977 684600 11.20 plus vat. Get them to post them, rather than use their carriers.
These are proper Heat treated drop forge jobs, They require a lot of banging to rivet them - with a heavy hammer - fitted mine yesterday!. They are a tight fit and it is a bit of a puzzle as to how the connect them and the chain. They do go together without any force.
Crossby - G335 missing link.
Good luck
Chris
I picked this info up from a PBO article written by Vyv Cox
These are proper Heat treated drop forge jobs, They require a lot of banging to rivet them - with a heavy hammer - fitted mine yesterday!. They are a tight fit and it is a bit of a puzzle as to how the connect them and the chain. They do go together without any force.
Crossby - G335 missing link.
Good luck
Chris
I picked this info up from a PBO article written by Vyv Cox
vyv_cox
Well-Known Member
It was YM actually, but thanks for remembering.
As Chris has found out to his cost, some of the USA marketed links are not what they were. Outsourcing to Taiwan and China, company take-overs and other factors have combined to downgrade the strength of some of these links and I would not recommend them unless you receive a certificate with them.
The ones sold by Selby were as strong as the DIN 677 chain when made up correctly. Their minimum charges and transport rates make them a bit pricey unless you buy a few.
Making them up tells you whether you have the strong ones or not. If the rivets peen over without too much trouble they are too soft. The hardened and tempered ones take about 10 - 12 blows with a 2 lb hammer, via a drift, to get flush.
The shackle with a countersunk pin is one of my favourites. Wichard make a very good one, in 17/4 PH which is a heat-treated stainless steel.
As Chris has found out to his cost, some of the USA marketed links are not what they were. Outsourcing to Taiwan and China, company take-overs and other factors have combined to downgrade the strength of some of these links and I would not recommend them unless you receive a certificate with them.
The ones sold by Selby were as strong as the DIN 677 chain when made up correctly. Their minimum charges and transport rates make them a bit pricey unless you buy a few.
Making them up tells you whether you have the strong ones or not. If the rivets peen over without too much trouble they are too soft. The hardened and tempered ones take about 10 - 12 blows with a 2 lb hammer, via a drift, to get flush.
The shackle with a countersunk pin is one of my favourites. Wichard make a very good one, in 17/4 PH which is a heat-treated stainless steel.
Chris_Robb
Well-Known Member
Thanks for your advice - I just hope that all the rubbish ones from West Marine, labeled with the correct ACCO part number but in reality cheap cast items, were recalled by West Marine. Those ones took 2 bangs with the hammer to rivet they were so soft!
The Crossby's were an incredibly tight fit on to the anchor links, fitting it initially was a bit like a chinese puzzle to get the links through and over the rivets!
Hope you have good sailing this year
Chris
The Crossby's were an incredibly tight fit on to the anchor links, fitting it initially was a bit like a chinese puzzle to get the links through and over the rivets!
Hope you have good sailing this year
Chris
saltwater_gypsy
Well-Known Member
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Just read the specs on these anchor links from Willie_Sharps suggested web site.
8mm link, working load, 150kg, (10mm,200kg)
The breaking load for 8mm chain is about 4.5TONS!!!
The Weakest Link has real meaning if you put a 150kg link in a 4,000kg chain. There was a good Yachting monthly review of these links and it was mainly bad news!.
8mm link, working load, 150kg, (10mm,200kg)
The breaking load for 8mm chain is about 4.5TONS!!!
The Weakest Link has real meaning if you put a 150kg link in a 4,000kg chain. There was a good Yachting monthly review of these links and it was mainly bad news!.
GMac
Well-Known Member
8mm real DIN766 chain has a break load of 3200kg.
Crosby and Maggi (Italy) make C links that match those loads and can be relied on. NEVER use an un-marked link, that's asking for trouble.
For those who think the C Links are weak links so use a shackle he is an interesting FYI. A 8mm (5/16") C link (one of the 2 mentioned above) have a WLL of 800kg with a 4:1 safety margin. A bog standard galvanised shackle has a WLL of 200kg with a 4:1 margin.
So a good C link has a WLL which is the same number as the BREAK load of a bog standard shackle.
Spooky don't you think?
Crosby and Maggi (Italy) make C links that match those loads and can be relied on. NEVER use an un-marked link, that's asking for trouble.
For those who think the C Links are weak links so use a shackle he is an interesting FYI. A 8mm (5/16") C link (one of the 2 mentioned above) have a WLL of 800kg with a 4:1 safety margin. A bog standard galvanised shackle has a WLL of 200kg with a 4:1 margin.
So a good C link has a WLL which is the same number as the BREAK load of a bog standard shackle.
Spooky don't you think?
