Jeanneau cutlass bearing

[Pauld1632]

Hi, I have taken my old cutlass bearing out of my Jeanneau 695 year 2000,it had a glassy brown outer material to it , size 35 mm shaft 50mm wide 140mm long , was hoping to put an all rubber one back in but can only see them advertised for a 35mm shaft 54mm wide, seen a lot different kinds on the web , can anyone tell me the correct bearing type I should be putting in this boat.
Many thanks

 

[Tranona]

That is unique I think to Jeanneau and you will need to buy a replacement from one of their dealers.

 

[Clancy Moped]

Have a chat with Jeanneau Spares & After Sales in the UK and worldwide
I found them most useful sourcing parts for our old Jeanneau.

 

[ithet]

I got my cutless bearings for my Beneteau from these people - Exalto

 

[Tranona]

Sorry I jumped the gun a bit there - your mention of 54mm shell threw me.

The 35*50*140 is a standard size. This is one source lakesterngear.co.uk/catalogue.pdf It will probably be an Exalto as Lake are UK dealers for them.

 

[Pauld1632]

That’s great, thanks to you all , do you think I will have to have a brass outer or a composite one .

 

[Tranona]

Does not really matter. Phenolic or GRP shells claim to avoid possible galvanic action but in reality it is really not a problem with brass shells. Lake Engineering have just fitted 2 brass shelled Exaltos into bronze housings for me.

Give them a call and ask them.

 

[Gazaaa]

Hi, I have taken my old cutlass bearing out of my Jeanneau 695 year 2000,it had a glassy brown outer material to it , size 35 mm shaft 50mm wide 140mm long , was hoping to put an all rubber one back in but can only see them advertised for a 35mm shaft 54mm wide, seen a lot different kinds on the web , can anyone tell me the correct bearing type I should be putting in this boat.
Many thanks

Hi Pauld1632.
Did you manage to get the correct fitting bearing? I also have a 695 (1999) so hopefully they are the same.
How did you access it and remove it? Did you have to remove the shaft and if so was the prop and rudder removed also?
This afternoon I had water leaking into the boat due to a shaft seal leak (only changed it 2 years ago). I just got it hauled out of the water and there is play in the cutlass which is one of the reasons for the failure i'd say.
Any info would be great. Thanks.

 

[Clancy Moped]

Hi Pauld1632.
Did you manage to get the correct fitting bearing? I also have a 695 (1999) so hopefully they are the same.
How did you access it and remove it? Did you have to remove the shaft and if so was the prop and rudder removed also?
This afternoon I had water leaking into the boat due to a shaft seal leak (only changed it 2 years ago). I just got it hauled out of the water and there is play in the cutlass which is one of the reasons for the failure i'd say.
Any info would be great. Thanks.

Are you sure it's not your stern gland ?

 

[Gazaaa]

Are you sure it's not your stern gland ?

Hi. I don't have a stern drive. It's just one of those 35 mm volvo rubber seal thats directly on the shaft (.https://www.generalpropeller.com/Shaft-Seals/Volvo-Shaft-Seal/828526)
I believe mine failed prematurely because of play in the cutlass bearing. Thanks.

 

[vyv_cox]

That’s great, thanks to you all , do you think I will have to have a brass outer or a composite one .

The phenolic ones swell in water, so the bearing has a bigger clearance from new to compensate. I fitted one that swelled more than had been allowed for, gripping the shaft very tightly. I had to replace it with a brass one after one season.

 

[Pauld1632]

Well, don’t think my cutlass have ever been changed, I presumed it was all a metric size of 35x50x140 but I measured it with a vernier yesterday and the tube was a imperial size of 1.875” around 47mm but found to my surprise on eBay a 35mmx1.875”x140mm cutlass bearing .had to take rudder off to pull shaft out ,hardest job I have ever done nightmare,the composite shaft bearing came out easy with a few screwdrivers breaking it up , but was well worn .

 

[Pauld1632]

I have sent for this one

 

[Gazaaa]

Well, don’t think my cutlass have ever been changed, I presumed it was all a metric size of 35x50x140 but I measured it with a vernier yesterday and the tube was a imperial size of 1.875” around 47mm but found to my surprise on eBay a 35mmx1.875”x140mm cutlass bearing .had to take rudder off to pull shaft out ,hardest job I have ever done nightmare,the composite shaft bearing came out easy with a few screwdrivers breaking it up , but was well worn .

Oh sounds like I have a nigtmare ahead of me. Any tips on removing the rudder. Are new seals required when this is done for the rudder itself. Apologies for all the questions as I found info limited for this type of boat. Thanks again.

 

[Pauld1632]

My rudder bracket was so corroded the stainless bolts and aluminium were as one , I had to drill the stainless grub screws out , and heat bracket up to get 12 mm bolts out and hammered shit out of bolts and kept working bolt heads with a torque wrench until they finally moved , hopefully yours won’t be so corroded, the rudder came out ok then bearing still tight so I’m just going to put a load of new grease in and put it back ,
Removed the locking nut on the shaft coupling 35mm socket , longer bolts through coupling with a bolt inside to press shaft out , if your bearing was changed 2years ago should be ok

 

[Gazaaa]

My rudder bracket was so corroded the stainless bolts and aluminium were as one , I had to drill the stainless grub screws out , and heat bracket up to get 12 mm bolts out and hammered shit out of bolts and kept working bolt heads with a torque wrench until they finally moved , hopefully yours won’t be so corroded, the rudder came out ok then bearing still tight so I’m just going to put a load of new grease in and put it back ,
Removed the locking nut on the shaft coupling 35mm socket , longer bolts through coupling with a bolt inside to press shaft out , if your bearing was changed 2years ago should be ok

Thanks for the info. Yes i remember doing the seal 2 years ago and trying to remove the flange from the coupling involved alot if heat, hammers and swearing .

 

[Pauld1632]

good luck with that , I’ve finished all the hard work, so just going to put everything back new , so hopefully it will be good for years to come , 2 years ago did you put a Volvo seal in or a copy, mine have never leaked

 

[Gazaaa]

good luck with that , I’ve finished all the hard work, so just going to put everything back new , so hopefully it will be good for years to come , 2 years ago did you put a Volvo seal in or a copy, mine have never leaked

I put an original in. I think it failed prematurely because of play in the cutlass and i think i have shot engine mounts (Yanmar engine) as it also have vibration at idle. I already have the new mounts purchased so that's another install to look forward to. I'm also thinking of putting an R&D flexible coupling between the gearbox and shaft but have yet to decide on that They are all original parts since 1999 so they are due to be changed. A good few weekends work ahead of me but at least it will be good for another few years.

 

[ChromeDome]

I changed mine (twin shafts) without removing the shafts. The rudders are offset a bit to allow shaft removal but weren't relevant in this case.

Hint: Remove any hidden (countersunk) screws from the p-bracket, locking the bearing in place!!

The tool to remove bearings is expensive - couldn't justify that for only two uses, so made my own by copying the idea, inspired by strutpro.com and this:

If you can, I'd suggest hiring a pro tool.

 

[Gazaaa]

My rudder bracket was so corroded the stainless bolts and aluminium were as one , I had to drill the stainless grub screws out , and heat bracket up to get 12 mm bolts out and hammered shit out of bolts and kept working bolt heads with a torque wrench until they finally moved , hopefully yours won’t be so corroded, the rudder came out ok then bearing still tight so I’m just going to put a load of new grease in and put it back ,
Removed the locking nut on the shaft coupling 35mm socket , longer bolts through coupling with a bolt inside to press shaft out , if your bearing was changed 2years ago should be ok

Got around to working on mine today. All going well until i tried to remove the rudder. I got the 2 main bolts off along with the tiller arm extension. No way I could budge the grub screws so decided to drill them out. There is slight side to side movement on the arm bur the rudder stock wont go down through. Was there anything else that was needed to be taken off? Are those grub screws also threaded into the shaft? Total nightmare.