Jamming cleat for anchor rode ?

JimC

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Has anyone tried one with a rope rode? To do the same job as a chain stopper i.e. as a sort of one-way valve allowing one to use the motion of the boat to recover the anchor more easily by hand. I mean the black nylon type of jamming cleat with an open top and serrated sides.
 
JimC,

It sounds like you're describing a CLAMCLEAT - specific make, often confused with cam cleats, which of course work by the line going between 2 moving cams.

I don't think many people would trust a clamcleat with something as important as an anchor warp.

They can slip if the rope size is not perfect or there's wear on rope or cleat, and with an open topped model the warp would be just too likely to become dislodged.

It wouldn't be at all secure when tension went off the warp either.

Traditional 'stag horn' cleats or if you must a samson post would be the kit for the job; cleats can be fitted to a normal deck, with very good wood & stainless ( or at least stainless penny washer ) backing, but a samson post tends to be built in, or at least more effort to fit and if not part of the design may well impinge on the interior below.

As sailorman says, to get the one-way effect one can run the warp around the horn of a traditional cleat then to the hand.
 
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Has anyone tried one with a rope rode? To do the same job as a chain stopper i.e. as a sort of one-way valve allowing one to use the motion of the boat to recover the anchor more easily by hand. I mean the black nylon type of jamming cleat with an open top and serrated sides.

if i read what you want to do . its a chain pawl for rope your looking for . Your not writing about using the the open clam cleat for just securing the rode just using it while pulling the anchor in ..

Unfortunately I dont think what you have in mind is workable the cleats have all sorts of issues that others have mentioned and in addition any mud, weed etc would add to the problems the only thing that you could use as an aid to do that job would be a basic old fashioned winch a couple of turns of rode around it would allow you to pull it in one way and snub it a bit but not really an answer
 
I think, in practice, you would find the position you had to get into to keep the rode parallel with the cleat would be very awkward and probably defeat the purpose.

You really want to be standing up to haul in the rode and that would require a fairlead after the cleat.
 
I think, in practice, you would find the position you had to get into to keep the rode parallel with the cleat would be very awkward and probably defeat the purpose.

You really want to be standing up to haul in the rode and that would require a fairlead after the cleat.

The only way I can think of doing this would be with a block/cleat combination like a dinghy mainsheet. It should work well enough but I see no advantage over a decent traditional sampson post or bitts.
 
these devices

http://www.dubye.net/Misc/carpenterStopper.pdf

are used in the oil industry as wire rope clamps. Anyone know if they can be used on normal rope, or if there is a fibre rope alternative, please ?



Am I re-inventing something ? If you 'unwound' a normal chain capstan so that it was flat on the deck, you could drop the chain into the jaws and pop a cover or securing device over the chain. Provided the pull is horizontal rather than upwards, the chain should stay firmly held. Perhaps incline the device upwards at say 20 degs ?
 
Am I re-inventing something ? If you 'unwound' a normal chain capstan so that it was flat on the deck, you could drop the chain into the jaws and pop a cover or securing device over the chain. Provided the pull is horizontal rather than upwards, the chain should stay firmly held. Perhaps incline the device upwards at say 20 degs ?

There's a long history of marine 'chain stoppers' and 'chain compressors' and 'Blake slips' which developed from the various 'dogs', 'nippers', 'Devil's claws' and 'stoppers' of the hemp warp era. John Harland's 'Seamanship In The Age Of Sail' has several interesting examples of those, and an earlier form of 'dogging' ( spreading the anchor warp load into the hull/deck structure using supplementary ropes, rings and eyebolts ) appears to be more work than fun.

A passing knowledge of the principles would be valuable to us today in preparing for a tow, in that the loads may be spread into multiple deck strong-:)points and not passed through just the one.
 
Seems to me that the OP wants to use the motion of the boat to retrieveve the anchor by using some sort of cleat. But this would only work (if at all) while the anchor and/or chain is on the sea bed. Once they are free there will be no advantage.
 
perhaps I'm missing the point, but what's wrong with a windlass? Even a manual one.

Far more effective, efficient and labour-saving.

Nothing at all, I was just looking for a cheaper low-tech option. At the moment I recover my anchor by hand, standing or sitting on the foredeck behind the open anchor locker into which the recovered rope falls, needing a bit of arrangement to lie properly. Each two-handed pull brings in about 2 feet of rope. It would be nice to have some kind of a "one-way valve" such that each recovered two feet stays recovered and cannot slip back over the bow-roller while changing my grip or arranging the coils in the anchor locker. Also such an arrangement would make it easier to break-out the anchor using the natural rise and fall of the boat. Granted it wouldn't have much benefit once the anchor had been broken-out, but that's usually the easy part anyway.
 
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