I've lost some knots.

A galvanic isolator will help your anodes, but that fouling is impressive - Med style!
anti fouling wise, anything is better than nothing, chip fat, sheep grease, butter at a push, tesco's carrier bag over the drives whilst you are away (people do it - the bags for life are the best ;-) )
I have tried a few over the years. The best is keep the boat out of water, second best keep boat in fresh or brackish water. I kept a boat in Kip marina for about 18 months - lifted it out - nothing at all, but that marina has a stream flowing into it most of the time. Any moorings with fresh water rivers running in near by?
 
kashurst said:
A galvanic isolator will help your anodes, but that fouling is impressive - Med style!
anti fouling wise, anything is better than nothing, chip fat, sheep grease, butter at a push, tesco's carrier bag over the drives whilst you are away (people do it - the bags for life are the best ;-) )
I have tried a few over the years. The best is keep the boat out of water, second best keep boat in fresh or brackish water. I kept a boat in Kip marina for about 18 months - lifted it out - nothing at all, but that marina has a stream flowing into it most of the time. Any moorings with fresh water rivers running in near by?
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Well we're at Swanwick which is the mid reaches of the R Hamble so allegedly some fresh water... no sign of any benefits though!
 
Maybe I'm a bit harsh. Lets just say if you dont use your boat Trilux is useless. Everything below the cavitation plate clean, everything above rainforest. You need to use your boat more or you will be shopping for a wetsuit
 
Scala said:
Magnetic to fouling you mean. Feeding frenzy. Maybe so... . In which case I claim no resposnsibility for applying it...
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BruceK said:
Maybe I'm a bit harsh. Lets just say if you dont use your boat Trilux is useless. Everything below the cavitation plate clean, everything above rainforest. You need to use your boat more or you will be shopping for a wetsuit
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There was nothing applied to the drives. So I suppose I shouldn’t be surprised they fouled.

Be useful to know if there is anything available in the UK that actually works on drive legs if not props...?
 
Graham,

I use Trilux 33 on my outdrives in France and find it to be very good. The boat was lifted and the legs serviced in April, we got down in late June for a couple of weeks and are just bad from another 2 weeks and the drives were very clean with only minot slime on them that I cleared with a brush. My props are in the same condition as yours. No fouling over the summer.

So my boats sits still for considerable periods, but I find that the Trilux 33 works as does the natural antifouling properties of the metallic composition of the props.

Over winter the props will build up, but an acid clean in the spring will cure this. I can't believe that you boat was delivered with no antifouling on the drives! I would be heading back to the dealer with a series of pointed questions about the commissioning process.
 
Trilux 33. Below cavitation plates clean, above....

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Are you not propped right on the edge of ok?

I think the wot range is 3400-3600 but the master...VP could confirm. Better being at 3600 brand new and clean as you’re bound to lose a bit with weight, fouling....fenders on deck causing aerodynamic drag etc ?
 
Mr Googler said:
Are you not propped right on the edge of ok?

I think the wot range is 3400-3600 but the master...VP could confirm. Better being at 3600 brand new and clean as you’re bound to lose a bit with weight, fouling....fenders on deck causing aerodynamic drag etc ?
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I've agreed with VP that he won't get involved, it'sa new boat and warranty.

WOT on the generic engine spec sheet from Volvo says 3500 max. My boat has the correct props fitted - that was something we checked yeserday. By 'correct' I mean the ones that the factory specifies.

I have also discovered yesterday that the Bavaria factory spec sheet for "max speed" is for the Open variant of the boat with fixed swim platform. Mine is the HT (heavier and less aerodynamic) and has the big heavy lump of platform with all its mechanisms in the water.

And I have all of my fenders on the side decks... :) So if it drops a couple of kts in comparison that's probably no surprise.
 
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petem said:
Lots of us Med boys use Velox for props, stern gear and legs.

It's cheap and is the only product that works.
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Not sold in the UK on H&S grounds apparently.
EDIT Scrub that it seems to be available. I'll see if I can get some.

Whippersnapper said:
This might seem a stupid question but why would a new boat that has anti foul not have something applied to the outdrives?
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Fair Q. I've asked them why not.
 
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Whole drives painted and shields. But only those parts that are in moving water shed. So the "with Biolux" bit is complete bogus and bollux. i.e. at best it is an ablative that needs high volumes of waterflow at speed in order to work. I moor in 4knt currents. So if you're not planing it's not working and then tbh. If you use your boat regularly you'll probably find it would be just as effective without. Certainly I've forgone Trilux and just use white grease now. Nothing sticks to that, and a dive mid season to put some more on is no heartache. It's certainly a few less than what I'd be doing with a scrubbing brush
 
BruceK said:
Whole drives painted and shields. But only those parts that are in moving water shed. So the "with Biolux" bit is complete bogus and bollux. i.e. at best it is an ablative that needs high volumes of waterflow at speed in order to work. I moor in 4knt currents. So if you're not planing it's not working and then tbh. If you use your boat regularly you'll probably find it would be just as effective without. Certainly I've forgone Trilux and just use white grease now. Nothing sticks to that, and a dive mid season to put some more on is no heartache. It's certainly a few less than what I'd be doing with a scrubbing brush
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The dive is no heartache for you as you don’t do it,
 
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