jimg
Well-Known Member
I am happy with doing the work, but what 240v cable type is best for a boat, or does it not matter?
Installing a shore supply
- Thread starter jimg
- Start date
Mirelle
N/A
Well, "the usuals", really. RCD, breakers, etc.
I've got double rubber covered, multistrand, fully tinned cable with a hefty cross sectional area, throughout, including the shore connection itself. It has put up with 10 years of use and abuse with no trouble at all.
One fad of mine, which I thing gives a better set up and avoids some cost, is that the shore connection does not run to a built in socket. Instead, I just lead the cable through a hatch, ventilator or porthole.
I've got double rubber covered, multistrand, fully tinned cable with a hefty cross sectional area, throughout, including the shore connection itself. It has put up with 10 years of use and abuse with no trouble at all.
One fad of mine, which I thing gives a better set up and avoids some cost, is that the shore connection does not run to a built in socket. Instead, I just lead the cable through a hatch, ventilator or porthole.
kengill
Well-Known Member
I might be wrong but with the new regulations I think its now illegal to install and commission it yourself without a full inspection and certification from a registered electrician - which will cost you an arm and a leg but they probably don't understand what you need to do on boats anyway.
All wire should be marine grade tinned copper flexible wire - not the solid core electricians are use dto.
All connectors should be marine grade , you should ideally run the cables inside a reinforced pvc hose to prevent chafe and seal the cable to the hose to prevent water filling the void.
When using terminal strips make sure they are the ones which have a leaf of metal between the screws and the conductor.
Run all sockets in sealed housings and have them as high up and as near to the centre of the boat as practical to keep them away from any water ingress.
Make sure the switch unit is a proper RCD unit and fit a galvanic isolator in the earth circuit.
Secure the cables well away from anything likely to fall on it or trap it inside a locker. if in doubt cover it with some ply strip held down with RTV or a hot glue.
mount deckhead lights away from hatches and provide a drip ring of some kind around it to prevent water drips from fittings or hatches getting to the unit.
If having an inverter fitted make sure it is totally independent from the shore power system and fit an rcd to the output as well.
All imho of course
Happy wiring
All wire should be marine grade tinned copper flexible wire - not the solid core electricians are use dto.
All connectors should be marine grade , you should ideally run the cables inside a reinforced pvc hose to prevent chafe and seal the cable to the hose to prevent water filling the void.
When using terminal strips make sure they are the ones which have a leaf of metal between the screws and the conductor.
Run all sockets in sealed housings and have them as high up and as near to the centre of the boat as practical to keep them away from any water ingress.
Make sure the switch unit is a proper RCD unit and fit a galvanic isolator in the earth circuit.
Secure the cables well away from anything likely to fall on it or trap it inside a locker. if in doubt cover it with some ply strip held down with RTV or a hot glue.
mount deckhead lights away from hatches and provide a drip ring of some kind around it to prevent water drips from fittings or hatches getting to the unit.
If having an inverter fitted make sure it is totally independent from the shore power system and fit an rcd to the output as well.
All imho of course
Happy wiring
paulburton44
Well-Known Member
Go your local electrical wholesaler...ask for blue 1.5mm artic flex...
That should do the job...
That should do the job...
misterg
Well-Known Member
By "New Regulations" do you mean "Part P" of the Building Regs?
If so, they don't apply to boats AFAIK. If not, what have I missed ? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
Andy /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
If so, they don't apply to boats AFAIK. If not, what have I missed ? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
Andy /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
sarabande
Well-Known Member
A minor but significant practical safety point about external shore power sockets:
I have recently had a blue/white 16 amp socket installed on board in the cockpit, as a replacement unit. The new unit comes with a "cap" designed to cover the socket when it's not in use.
The unit was installed so that the socket, when open, faces downwards - which seems like a good idea to stop water getting in.
However, when the cap is placed onto the socket, it acts as a collector for rain and spray. When I went on board earlier this week, it was full of rainwater, to a depth which is clearly in contact with the pins inside the socket.
I have drilled a small hole in the cap to allow adventitious water to drain away, and will modify an icecream box to provide additional protection.
I have recently had a blue/white 16 amp socket installed on board in the cockpit, as a replacement unit. The new unit comes with a "cap" designed to cover the socket when it's not in use.
The unit was installed so that the socket, when open, faces downwards - which seems like a good idea to stop water getting in.
However, when the cap is placed onto the socket, it acts as a collector for rain and spray. When I went on board earlier this week, it was full of rainwater, to a depth which is clearly in contact with the pins inside the socket.
I have drilled a small hole in the cap to allow adventitious water to drain away, and will modify an icecream box to provide additional protection.
jimg
Well-Known Member
Thanks for all the advice.
Not sure what you mean about the inlet socket, I thought the socket was angled down and a spring loaded cover was hinged from the top to prevent water ingress? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
Not sure what you mean about the inlet socket, I thought the socket was angled down and a spring loaded cover was hinged from the top to prevent water ingress? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
kengill
Well-Known Member
You're absolutely right. There is no legal restriction
But if I was an insurance company or a marina and there was a standard that I could apply then I would certainly either ask or insist for the new installation to be certified by a competent person.
PS I had a fire on board caused by a mains powered light this year and almost lost three crew and the boat.
But if I was an insurance company or a marina and there was a standard that I could apply then I would certainly either ask or insist for the new installation to be certified by a competent person.
PS I had a fire on board caused by a mains powered light this year and almost lost three crew and the boat.
sarabande
Well-Known Member
Most sockets I have seen have the springy flap, and are used on the cables. This cap is on the socket attached to the bulkhead .
I'll find a piccy.
I'll find a piccy.
Ships_Cat
Well-Known Member
Unless it is fitted in a weatherproof enclosure it should be IEC IP56 enclosure rating at least - it will have at least a spring loaded flap which clips shut against a gasket. If that has leaked then there is a fault with the fitting as it should be resistant no matter which way it is installed.
Putting aside those who think anything goes (they also seem to forget about the difficulties of salt water) and assuming it is not in a weatherproof enclosure, if the fitting is not at least IP56 then you have the wrong fitting from both a safety and equipment life point of view.
John
Putting aside those who think anything goes (they also seem to forget about the difficulties of salt water) and assuming it is not in a weatherproof enclosure, if the fitting is not at least IP56 then you have the wrong fitting from both a safety and equipment life point of view.
John
hightech
Well-Known Member
There is no restriction to you doing the job yourself, as leisure vessels do not come under the regulations. Although if you know a friendly boat owning electrician it would be worth a few drinks to get them to check the install is good.
You will need to work out what your likely load is going to be and calculate your loading, then buy your cable to suit. Don't forget loading of heaters for use in the winter etc.
Arctic cable is fine for both your shore feed and also for running the ring main inside the boat. You will probably want a few double 13 amp socket dotted around strategically and one in/near the galley. Use common sense for not placing near the sink/stove etc.
Make sure you fit an RCD inside the boat to protect yourself and a suitable switch/breaker box in the dry inside the boat.
Put a breaker in for the ring, your charger and also for a inmeesion heater for your calorifier if you intend to add one of those.
When you make up your shore leads put a home shoer plug on the non boat end, then get a selection of the various plug types you are likely to find and make up a number of "adaptor" cables with a socket on the end of each short lead to suit your home shore plug. Also buy yourself a test block for checking the shore supply connection is sound, they make them as 13 amp plug types or cable types, get a cable one and put a tail on it with a "home" plug on it, this will then plug into any of the adaptor leads.
With any parts you buy, make sure you buy "Known" name brands and expect to pay a reasonable amount for them. Most of the bits you get from B&Q and the like are cheapa and will die rapidly on a boat.
IF IN ANY DOUBT ASK A PROFESSIONAL OR GET THEM TO DO THE JOB!
You will need to work out what your likely load is going to be and calculate your loading, then buy your cable to suit. Don't forget loading of heaters for use in the winter etc.
Arctic cable is fine for both your shore feed and also for running the ring main inside the boat. You will probably want a few double 13 amp socket dotted around strategically and one in/near the galley. Use common sense for not placing near the sink/stove etc.
Make sure you fit an RCD inside the boat to protect yourself and a suitable switch/breaker box in the dry inside the boat.
Put a breaker in for the ring, your charger and also for a inmeesion heater for your calorifier if you intend to add one of those.
When you make up your shore leads put a home shoer plug on the non boat end, then get a selection of the various plug types you are likely to find and make up a number of "adaptor" cables with a socket on the end of each short lead to suit your home shore plug. Also buy yourself a test block for checking the shore supply connection is sound, they make them as 13 amp plug types or cable types, get a cable one and put a tail on it with a "home" plug on it, this will then plug into any of the adaptor leads.
With any parts you buy, make sure you buy "Known" name brands and expect to pay a reasonable amount for them. Most of the bits you get from B&Q and the like are cheapa and will die rapidly on a boat.
IF IN ANY DOUBT ASK A PROFESSIONAL OR GET THEM TO DO THE JOB!
G
Guest
Guest
Another Inland Waterways butting into Coastal waters ...
Regs are applied to Inland Waterways boats ... many of which are not enforceable or apply to estuary / coastal / tidal / seagoing craft.
Only time you will be "nabbed" for 'em is if a surveyor stupidly mentions them in report and Insurance Co. deems it necessary.
You are still able to fit and forget as DIY on a boat that is not Inland Waterways subject.
Regs are applied to Inland Waterways boats ... many of which are not enforceable or apply to estuary / coastal / tidal / seagoing craft.
Only time you will be "nabbed" for 'em is if a surveyor stupidly mentions them in report and Insurance Co. deems it necessary.
You are still able to fit and forget as DIY on a boat that is not Inland Waterways subject.
G
Guest
Guest
My socket also has a cap on a string !
And I know full well the water collecting problem ... in fact I now don't put cap on ... it's better !! The socket faces down so no water would get in unless cockpit flooded !! So cap is really a waste of time !!
The spring loaded caps are great till the spring gives out with seawater corrosion. Then you end up with same as me .....
/forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
And I know full well the water collecting problem ... in fact I now don't put cap on ... it's better !! The socket faces down so no water would get in unless cockpit flooded !! So cap is really a waste of time !!
The spring loaded caps are great till the spring gives out with seawater corrosion. Then you end up with same as me .....
/forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
