Induction Hob (and air fryer)

[Neeves]

There have been some positive comments on the use of Induction Hobs on yachts and are part of the equipment considered essential if you want to have a larger 'all electric' focus. We have no experience and cannot comment.

Aldi in Australia have a single hob in one of their specials in a weeks time, part of one of their Xmas promotions, (along with another device, an air fryer). Noelex in another thread mentions that induction hobs are cheap - the Aldi one seems even cheaper.

The Aldi hob is A$50, roughly Stg25 (includes our 10% sales tax) and an air fryer at A$60. I assume that Aldi had or will have in the future a similar offering in the UK.

We already have an air fryer and can comment they are invaluable, but have no idea of the quality of the Aldi unit - but it is impressively cheap.

If you are wondering about applicability on your own yacht - the investment for the hob is not much.

The hob is simply a very flat plate, which looks as if it will fit on the top of most 4 burner gimballed stoves (though you then would not be able to use the stove, nor grill, with the device on top).

Aldi do not define the power required to use either item.

Jonathan

I've just looked on line and the hob would need a largish inverter as the hob seems rated at 1,000 watts (though the implication is you can use a lower power setting).

Induction Cooker

J

 

[noelex]

If you can generate the electrical energy and have a large enough inverter and a suitable electrical system, electric cooking has many advantages.

An induction hotplate (or hob) is one the cornerstones of this system.

The cheap portable units work well, but they can be a little temperamental with long term full time use. I have needed to take our induction hotplate apart and re-solder the control board. This may have been a one off fault, but looking at the design I suspect the manufacturers did not anticipate several hours of use each day. These units are cheap so carrying a spare is not a great hardship.

Typically the 230v units draw around 2000- 2500w at full power, but this high power is only needed very occasionally. Normal cooking is at lower power levels, but the units pulse their power at lower settings. So an inverter that can supply around 1500w (and a suitable electrical system to support this) is generally the minimum requirement, but this does depend on the individual induction unit, some pulsate at higher levels than others.

 

[andsarkit]

I bought a cheap Tefal single ring one for when I was stripping out our kitchen. It only had 6 settings which were rather too coarse for easy cooking. On the lower settings it modulated off and on every few seconds with the result the pan would go on and off the boil. I fitted the new kitchen with a rather expensive 5 ring Neff one that had 20 levels and is brilliant for selecting just the right level that is needed. Much more controllable than gas. It needed a 32A (7400W) supply but could be set to restrict the total power to 13A to run off a standard socket outlet. I don't know if this feature is available on smaller ones.
I think recent ones have probably improved a lot but if possible you should try before you buy. A decent modulation method rather than just turning off and on may enable you to use a smaller inverter by using the lower settings.
You may have to replace your pans as not all have a suitable magnetic base. (you can check yours with a magnet)

 

[noelex]

Aldi do not define the power required to use either item.

The induction hot plate you linked shows a consumption of 2000 W.



This is at full power. At lower power levels it will consume less, so it can potentially be powered by a smaller inverter. The highest settings are only needed occasionally, so living without using high power settings, while not ideal, is not the end of the world.

The unknown is how much pulsation occurs. To generate say 1000 W the better units will simply supply a continuous 1000 W. This means an inverter capable of supplying 1000 W will work fine providing you are prepared to limit the cooking to the lower levels. Other induction units will pulse 2000 W with a 50% duty cycle to produce the 1000 W average cooking level. This will not work unless the inverter (and the rest of the electrical system) is capable of supplying the full 2000 W.

Unfortunately, the specifications do not normally clarify these details. If you want to indulge in electric cooking, an inverter and electrical system capable of delivering around 2000- 2500 W or more is sensible, but not essential if you are prepared select equipment carefully and restrict your cooking to lower levels.

 

[Kelpie]

We use a Vango Sizzle, which is really intended for camping. It's very small- ours simply sits on top of the old gas cooker. I'm not aware of any other model that is small enough to do that.
It's 800w per ring, which doesn't seem like very much compared to a gas hob, but in practice it's fine. The only time it ever feels underpowered is when trying to sear cheap watery cuts of meat.
It modulates the power so at full heat, each ring is about 60A, at half heat about 30A. It also cycles on and off a bit up to that power, especially at lower settings. Before we upgraded the lithium system we had to keep a close eye on it because we could only draw 120A total, so you couldn't use both rings on full without turning everything else off.

We've been using it full time for well over two years now. The only problem we've had is when SWMBO used the gas grill and forgot to lift the Vango off first. The bottom of it got slightly melted but it's still going. We bought a backup one just in case after that.
At under £100 I can't really fault it.

Our air fryer is a cheap supermarket one, about 4l and 1400w. About €60 from Carrefour in Spain. Unlike the hob, it doesn't modulate its power level, but cycles on and off, drawing about 110A maximum.
Friends have a Ninja which does a lot more- it's also a pressure cooker. More expensive but if starting from scratch I'd be tempted.

Our inverter can supply 2400w, so we can't have absolutely everything on at once. But you just juggle things a bit.

 

[Neeves]

The induction hot plate you linked shows a consumption of 2000 W.

View attachment 167107

This is at full power. At lower power levels it will consume less, so it can potentially be powered by a smaller inverter. The highest settings are only needed occasionally, so living without using high power settings, while not ideal, is not the end of the world.

My original post was based on the paper advertising that Aldi produce weekly. Later I thought I could do the forum members a favour and save their tired fingers and look out the weekly offers on the Aldi website. I then found that the power ratings, which I then got wrong , were on the website.

and being a generous soul I made mention in my edit and offered the link.

It seems that people did look at and read the link. Its nice to find ones posts being read.

Jonathan

 

[Neeves]

We've been using it full time for well over two years now. The only problem we've had is when SWMBO used the gas grill and forgot to lift the Vango off first. The bottom of it got slightly melted but it's still going. We bought a backup one just in case after that.
At under £100 I can't really fault it.

I thought that if used on a yacht this would be a common problem as the obvious location would be on the original gas hob because its gimballed and you might be able to secure the pan at sea. It would be easy to forget - and use the grill - not toasted cheese but toasted 'seared hot plate'.

We have a series of air fryers - as they have been introduced they have evolved and become more efficient in their use of space. Early models seemed to be oval or circular (not dissimilar to Darth Vadors headpiece) now they tend to be cubic. The air fryers have met with Josephine's approval - happy wife, happy life.

But with all these devices you do need to check power requirements and ensure they ft the rating off your inverter ... and/or learn to juggle like Kelpie.

I suspect it would be easy to forget and turn the Aldi induction hob up to full blast beyond your inverters rating.

Jonathan

We use a Vango Sizzle, which is really intended for camping.

Don't mention camping - the topic has not to be used here - its simply not plain sailing. and has nothing to do with a real yacht........apparently - except in real life there is a lot of overlap.

Jonathan

 

[ChromeDome]

A mate in our marina went microwave, induction and air fryer instead of gas stove with 2 burners and oven.

He decided on this after realising that they were cooking 99% when on shore power, so the biggest challenge was to find space for 2 induction plates that they desired. Ended with 2-in-1 with a slanted touch panel. As always it is impossible to use two large pans at the same time, but this is not down to the induction technology.


The one in the Aldi link looks flatter. It doesn't state dimensions, though.

On another note: Why on earth is the industry standard to state the diameter of frying pans over the top, not the base? Odd, when hobs, logically, are measured over the cooking surface?

 

[harvey38]

I don't own one but have a boat neighbour who uses an air fryer frequently, his boat now smells like a chippy all of the time and his MOBO is well ventilated

 

[Beneteau381]

There have been some positive comments on the use of Induction Hobs on yachts and are part of the equipment considered essential if you want to have a larger 'all electric' focus. We have no experience and cannot comment.

Aldi in Australia have a single hob in one of their specials in a weeks time, part of one of their Xmas promotions, (along with another device, an air fryer). Noelex in another thread mentions that induction hobs are cheap - the Aldi one seems even cheaper.

The Aldi hob is A$50, roughly Stg25 (includes our 10% sales tax) and an air fryer at A$60. I assume that Aldi had or will have in the future a similar offering in the UK.

We already have an air fryer and can comment they are invaluable, but have no idea of the quality of the Aldi unit - but it is impressively cheap.

If you are wondering about applicability on your own yacht - the investment for the hob is not much.

The hob is simply a very flat plate, which looks as if it will fit on the top of most 4 burner gimballed stoves (though you then would not be able to use the stove, nor grill, with the device on top).

Aldi do not define the power required to use either item.

Jonathan

I've just looked on line and the hob would need a largish inverter as the hob seems rated at 1,000 watts (though the implication is you can use a lower power setting).

Induction Cooker

J

We have had a Lidl single induction hob on board for years, used when in the marina on mains power. Fits on a square of ply that fits on top of the gas stove. The oven is still useable. Excellent bit of kit that saves gas. After ten years the controller knob is a bit iffy.
I bought an Aldi air fryer here in the uk a few months back, £30 ish, it cratered after a few minutes, the electronic controller threw a dicky fit. The air fryer about 1200 watts, the induction hob 2000 watts, the data is on the machines, it’s the law here in civilised climes Neeves!

 

[Grith]

We have been using an induction cooktop for some time now on our large cruising equipped trailer sailer. It’s been a relatively simple and pain free process but we do have an ecoflow delta max 2000 lithium powerpack recharged by 4 180w hard solar panels.
We sit it on top of our non gimbled origo meth stove which I have still been carrying 5 litres of meths but after now over 8 weeks living onboard without issue I think that’s and overkill.

 

[Pete7]

Don't mention camping - the topic has not to be used here - its simply not plain sailing. and has nothing to do with a real yacht........apparently - except in real life there is a lot of overlap.

Jonathan

Jonathan, I think you have missed the point. Like Kelpie, we have the same Vango Sizzle Double currently priced at £109 on Amazon UK. Its designed for camping because that is were Vango see their main customer base, they are a camping firm.

However, The Sizzle Double has one major advantage over many of the other induction hobs and that is the width. Many European yachts have 450mm wide cookers and therefore the manufacturers have built the galley to accommodate this size. Add a bit for gimbals and you end up with a space about 480mm. Few other double induction hobs on the market will fit in this space and be gimbaled, apart from the Vango, hence why folk are fitting them to yachts, as we did. Retaining the gimbaling was important to us, others may feel its not necessary for their sailing.

The one question that we are often asked is about the 800w power level per heating element and is this enough when many induction hobs are rated for 1500 - 3000w. The answer is yes as Noelex has pointed out. In practise with our first Sterling 1500W single induction hob, we were always turning it down or it just burns food. For example, once brought up to boiling, rice or pasta will quite happily simmer at 200-400w with a lid on the pan. Our go to heat settings for bacon or eggs is 600 - 800w. Since a kettle is a foreign object in the USA, they boil water on stoves, so perhaps a higher wattage hob is useful there, but back in the civilised world with 240v electric, we just use a kettle.

Do we have any regrets going for the smaller Vango? no its a perfect fit for us. With a 2kW inverter we can run both elements at the same time. Or use one and the remoska / sandwich toastie widget (great for a quick snack on passage). Even the kettle or slow cooker and one Vango element. In the past two years we haven't needed for anything else. We do have the basic Ninja Air Fryer (1500w) as well which we occasionally use if chips are needed. Chips aside a Remoska (580w) is a more versatile cooking implement in our opinion. Indeed we bought a second one for use at home, we think they are that good. Cakes, fish and joints of meat are cooked just superbly.

You commented on our cooking stats a month ago, in particular the daily average of 0.9kWh. Yes on a large yacht with oodles of solar and battery capacity, you can run big Victron inverters and therefore just about any domestic appliance. For a smaller yacht choosing appliances carefully can also be very successful without high price tag items and wondering were its all going to fit.

Pete

Pete

 

[rogerthebodger]

We purchased one of these from our local discount store for 899 Zar which translate to less than 40 GBP and seems to work fine. We don.t use it on th boat but at our holiday home in Richards Bay

 

[Zing]

I have a table top single pan unit I bought in Asda on the boat, which I want to replace. I don’t like it as it pulses the heat. Full power for five seconds then off for five to achieve half power. Too severe. The Zanussi model at the house modulates and works superbly. The way they heat is not mentioned in the specifications, so it’s hard to find what I want. Has anyone found a nice properly modulating single pan (or bigger) unit?

 

[Neeves]

Jonathan, I think you have missed the point. Like Kelpie, we have the same Vango Sizzle Double currently priced at £109 on Amazon UK. Its designed for camping because that is were Vango see their main customer base, they are a camping firm.

However, The Sizzle Double has one major advantage over many of the other induction hobs and that is the width. Many European yachts have 450mm wide cookers and therefore the manufacturers have built the galley to accommodate this size. Add a bit for gimbals and you end up with a space about 480mm. Few other double induction hobs on the market will fit in this space and be gimbaled, apart from the Vango, hence why folk are fitting them to yachts, as we did. Retaining the gimbaling was important to us, others may feel its not necessary for their sailing.

The one question that we are often asked is about the 800w power level per heating element and is this enough when many induction hobs are rated for 1500 - 3000w. The answer is yes as Noelex has pointed out. In practise with our first Sterling 1500W single induction hob, we were always turning it down or it just burns food. For example, once brought up to boiling, rice or pasta will quite happily simmer at 200-400w with a lid on the pan. Our go to heat settings for bacon or eggs is 600 - 800w. Since a kettle is a foreign object in the USA, they boil water on stoves, so perhaps a higher wattage hob is useful there, but back in the civilised world with 240v electric, we just use a kettle.

Do we have any regrets going for the smaller Vango? no its a perfect fit for us. With a 2kW inverter we can run both elements at the same time. Or use one and the remoska / sandwich toastie widget (great for a quick snack on passage). Even the kettle or slow cooker and one Vango element. In the past two years we haven't needed for anything else. We do have the basic Ninja Air Fryer (1500w) as well which we occasionally use if chips are needed. Chips aside a Remoska (580w) is a more versatile cooking implement in our opinion. Indeed we bought a second one for use at home, we think they are that good. Cakes, fish and joints of meat are cooked just superbly.

You commented on our cooking stats a month ago, in particular the daily average of 0.9kWh. Yes on a large yacht with oodles of solar and battery capacity, you can run big Victron inverters and therefore just about any domestic appliance. For a smaller yacht choosing appliances carefully can also be very successful without high price tag items and wondering were its all going to fit.

Pete

Pete

Thanks Pete,

A very informative post.

I do like you posts on 'electricity/lithium etc' as you represent what I think is the bulk of the market - a smaller (nothing derogatory intended) yacht. If you have deep and many pockets you have much greater flexibility than those that have, say, 35' yacht who lack both space and the desire to invest funds to buy a 40' yacht. Many of the big yacht solutions cannot simply be scaled down.

I do know Vango from decades ago when they first came on the scene in the UK. I know them as a manufacturers of tents - which is where I think they first started. I had no idea they sold induction hobs - I have never seen them, Vango, retailed in Oz.

The tyranny of distance.

I do see the the smaller Vango unit as being a very neat niche for yachts as many people have inverters but simply too small for domestic induction.


I do see strong overlaps between camping and sailing, power and water are an issue with both and sometimes the same solutions work well and sometimes there is no overlap.

I did post for the Aldi unit, not because I am a fan, or not, of Aldi but simply because its a very cheap unit (that might pulse on and off) and for anyone considering induction offers a cheap 'toe in the water'.

I have a table top single pan unit I bought in Asda on the boat, which I want to replace. I don’t like it as it pulses the heat. Full power for five seconds then off for five to achieve half power. Too severe. The Zanussi model at the house modulates and works superbly. The way they heat is not mentioned in the specifications, so it’s hard to find what I want. Has anyone found a nice properly modulating single pan (or bigger) unit?

I had thought to put a 'toe in the water' for the Aldi unit but have been discouraged by the criticism of pulsing. 2,000 Watts is a big unit and would need a big, expensive, inverter (ours is cheap and only 1,500W). It is not mentioned in the specification on the website - and as I don't have one I don't know (and cannot look at the specification on the back of the unit, its not on sale yet and I would have to unpack the box). It may have been on sale previously - they seem to cycle their special offers.

There are more people using induction on a yacht than I had envisaged.

Jonathan

 

[Pete7]

2,000 Watts is a big unit and would need a big, expensive, inverter (ours is cheap and only 1,500W).

There are more people using induction on a yacht than I had envisaged.

Jonathan

Jonathan thanks, kind comment .

Is your inverter a pure sine wave model? If its modified you have little chance of running an induction hob. However, there might be another option if you have a PSW inverter.

Sadly I don't think Vango import induction hobs into Australia and the best I could recommend previously for someone down under is to order it off Amazon UK and hope for the best.

Back to the inverter. So you have 1500w and hopefully its about 90% efficient (modern Victron and Sterling are) so knock off a bit from this because the inverter wants some power itself.

The Sterling induction hob is 1500w (Pro Mariner may have a rebadged similar model). Our previous inverter was a 1600w PSW Sterling inverter and wouldn't run their hob on full. However, we could manage the 1300w setting, still too hot for most cooking purposes though. What you really need is a model you can see the settings for. The table below comes from the Sterling Induction manual. Sadly not all provide this information, probably because they expect you to be plugged into 240v. So without swopping out your inverter which we chose to do, I think you might be able to find a suitable induction hob that will run off a 1500w inverter, you just need the power requirements at each setting. Note the sterling always switches on at the 1000w setting by default.

I do see the pulsing, particularly when simmering rice at say 200w. I don't believe this alters the temperature much, and the 2kW PSW inverter seems quite happy so I don't worry.

We have gas at home, but the speed at which induction heats up catches us out when we are on board, just as an air fryer does frozen chips to cooked in 12 minutes and burnt to a cinder in 14. Been there got the t shirt. Thankfully its only another 12 minutes to start again. Speed and heat only going into the pan, plus cooking with lids does make a difference to being able to cook on board when its hot, and keeps the RH down when its cold. Its subjective but we don't seem to see the same level of condensation inside the yacht cooking when its cold.

 

[Neeves]

Jonathan thanks, kind comment .

You have put yourself out, it is much appreciated.

Oddly - Lithium seems to have brought out the best in some, or many. You have, all, voluntarily provided chapter and verse on your installations. Normally people answer the OPs question and maybe add some detail. Many of the Lithium threads have been chapter and verse from A to Z and the OP has initiated the thread on their installation.

I feel we are lucky and such largesse should not be ignored.

Our, 1,500W inverter is said to be PSW. We have used it with devices rated at 1,300 Watts (though never sure how accurate are the specifications).

I had another look at the information provided on the website Induction Cooker for the Aldi induction hob and it makes no mention of 'pulse' operation. I had a quick search for 'reviews' but it seems Aldi sold another induction hob previously which they withdrew (or no longer sell). The implication is this is a new device, from a new source and I could find no reviews.

I'm less hung ho of the current Aldi device now that the negative comments of pulse operation and inverters has been aired. We either need a 'smaller' induction hob or a larger inverter (and I know which is cheaper). I appreciate we could buy the Aldi unit, use it on the various settings, define the watts used from the battery mon and then identify how high a rating, button, we could use. Inevitably someone would hit the wrong button. - and its better to be able to use any device as it was intended.


A bit of drift - hoping to expand my education. I'm assuming others have similar thoughts. If I'm selfishly asking too many silly questions - I can stop wondering

In the same way I wondered what happened to all the amps from a solar that was not plugged into anything (answer thanks to Paul) I then wondered:

If Lithium installations all have a Battery Management System, either stand alone or as part of the battery what is the function of a solar regulator. The BMS is said, or is meant, to control charging, reacts to changes in temperature etc, switches input off when the battery and all cells reach a desired level - but a solar regulator does the same thing - which seems redundant.

I accept that the solars might be feeding a lead acid battery (which would then need some form of regulation) and the Lithiums might be charged from a B2B - so charged indirectly from the solars so the solar regulator protects the Lead battery and the BMS protects the Lithium. But some might charge their Lithium direct from solars and then the solar regulator seems unnecessary. Maybe charging exclusively from solars is unusual for a yacht?

Or am I simply showing my ignorance, again.

Jonathan

 

[Pete7]

I accept that the solars might be feeding a lead acid battery (which would then need some form of regulation) and the Lithiums might be charged from a B2B - so charged indirectly from the solars so the solar regulator protects the Lead battery and the BMS protects the Lithium. But some might charge their Lithium direct from solars and then the solar regulator seems unnecessary. Maybe charging exclusively from solars is unusual for a yacht?

Or am I simply showing my ignorance, again.

Jonathan

Hmm, interesting question. Some folk keep the BMS wrapped in a warm fluffy blanket as a system of last resort in case it all goes pear shaped and therefore not for every day use. Others are quite happy to let the BMS do what its supposed to on a regular basis.

One of the important functions is to limit over voltage charging. I am not sure what would happen if we connected the solar output of 30v and 10A straight into the LifePO4 (LFP) batteries, but I am not prepared to find out. The BMS is only a switch, on or off, whilst a good MPPT will adjust the panel output to match the battery settings. We let the Victron MPPT do its thing of regulating the solar voltage and also constantly search for the peak charging settings which it does frequently.

The battery to battery (B2B) is there to regulate the amount of power being drawn from the alternator and start battery before sending a limited amount to the LFP. Without it the risk is the plain car type alternators on most small boat engines will over heat, particularly at low revs when the cooling fan is only turning slowly but the LFP trying to take full power. Sterling go as far as to insist on a B2B if charging their LFPs with an alternator. However, there are other ways. Expensive after market alternators, external regulators and a replacement serpentine belt system, likely north of £1500. Finally, the long wire method. So a long wire from the engine start battery or alternator to the LFP. Run engine and check alternator temperature. If too hot lengthen wire. If voltage too low shorten wire and check temperature again.

I prefer the B2B because its so much more adjustable and can sit at a float voltage supplying the house loads but not over charging full LFP batteries. Yes there is a cost to all this, but it would only be spent on other boatie stuff anyway.

 

[Neeves]

Hmm, interesting question. Some folk keep the BMS wrapped in a warm fluffy blanket as a system of last resort in case it all goes pear shaped and therefore not for every day use. Others are quite happy to let the BMS do what its supposed to on a regular basis.

One of the important functions is to limit over voltage charging. I am not sure what would happen if we connected the solar output of 30v and 10A straight into the LifePO4 (LFP) batteries, but I am not prepared to find out. The BMS is only a switch, on or off, whilst a good MPPT will adjust the panel output to match the battery settings. We let the Victron MPPT do its thing of regulating the solar voltage and also constantly search for the peak charging settings which it does frequently.

The battery to battery (B2B) is there to regulate the amount of power being drawn from the alternator and start battery before sending a limited amount to the LFP. Without it the risk is the plain car type alternators on most small boat engines will over heat, particularly at low revs when the cooling fan is only turning slowly but the LFP trying to take full power. Sterling go as far as to insist on a B2B if charging their LFPs with an alternator. However, there are other ways. Expensive after market alternators, external regulators and a replacement serpentine belt system, likely north of £1500. Finally, the long wire method. So a long wire from the engine start battery or alternator to the LFP. Run engine and check alternator temperature. If too hot lengthen wire. If voltage too low shorten wire and check temperature again.

I prefer the B2B because its so much more adjustable and can sit at a float voltage supplying the house loads but not over charging full LFP batteries. Yes there is a cost to all this, but it would only be spent on other boatie stuff anyway.

Thanks Pete,

I may over exaggerate parsimony resulting from my Scots background - but the question was not about money - but the technology behind having two devices, ostensibly doing the same things. Specifically batteries with built in BMS - whose BMS ought to be specifically designed for THAT battery.

I did love the variable wire length solution and your final sentence.

Jonathan

 

[Kelpie]

Cheaper BMSs, including those found within the budget 'drop in' batteries, do not have separate charge and load buses. So if you relied on the BMS to regulate charging, you'd find the battery going offline and you'd have no power.

By the way, there is a type of BMS, the Electrodacus, which is designed to also function as a charge controller. Only works with 12v (nominal) panels, and it's strictly a DIY job. I investigated it and despite its many advantages chickened out, it seemed a very complicated solution.