Idiots guide to flushing a raw water engine

Little Dorritt , did you flush it out with the circulation method or just filling it up and letting it sit for an hour. I figure on the Bukh if you fill it from the thermostat housing it will reach all the parts by gravity.
David MH
I used the method suggested by @vyv_cox in #4. I think I will do a full flush at the end of the season but the cooling system appears to be functioning better now. The cooling outlet pipes when the thermostat is open are much warmer now which is a good sign.
 
Sorry to bump this old thread but thought I’d add my experience of flushing my 1GM10.
Having never done this in 10 odd years I thought I’d give it a go. Following the instructions on this thread I removed the thermostat, reversed the anode and clamped the bypass pipe. I then connected a small pond pump to the intake after the impeller, when running this pump I only got a small amount of water though the system. I then added the Proflush to the bucket, OMG!
The amount of crap that came out of the pipe was staggering, and after about 30mins I would guess had three times the amount of water flowing though the system.
Thanks to all on this thread for the advice, I only hope it wasn’t the scale holding my old 1GM together 😂
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Here’s the setup I used on my Bukh DV20 raw water cooled.
‘Normal’ flushing for a service and winterisation is done by just running a hosepipe into the strained while the engine warms up. I’ve used Rydelime once in 17 years
If you want to make sure that it all goes through the block, remove the thermostat and clamp the pipe from the Y bend to the thermostat housing
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