How to start single handing

Just curious about a wide variety of sloop rig boats will heave to, then Hanse create a sub-genre of them that won't?
what's different?
How does it work/not work?
What determines whether a sloop will heave to or not?

It's a bit like I don't totally understand exactly what's going on when some singlehander dinghies can park themselves in irons, very stable, going nowhere very much, just when you don't want this to happen!
Self tacking jibs ! But additional sheets can be rigged to overcome this
 
If something is essential you cannot, by definition, do without it.
All the examples you sight in your post are true, but for anyone sailing solo for any length of time or often, sailing without a form of auto steering system is miserable. I would certainly not choose to do it, I could, but would not choose to.
two of the three autopilots I have owned failed without warning
That suggests to me that you are buying at the cheaper/low spected end of the market.
I bought an over spected one 20+ years ago and in that time it only hickuped once on passage (off Portugal) which I sorted out.
Low end tiller pilots and wheel pilots that run off an elastic band are just not up to the job.
 
I can and have done all of the above on four boats I have owned while single handed with the aid of a windvane auxiliary rudder or water servo steering device. So far they have proved 100% reliable. They look as if I should be able to repair them, but have never had to try, other than the time I dropped the auxilliary rudder two metres on to concrete while ashore.
When it comes to tiller or wheel pilots I have had them fail without warning.
For me the former is essential and the latter nice to have while it keeps working, but treated with caution.

The 4 best tiller pilots have some very odd names:
Hydrovane, Airies, Monitor and Navik!
 
To answer Scotties original post i think? Steering is boring! Officers don't steer, they have sailors for that. The Officers stand back and tell the helmsman what to do! I did try and persuade the skipper of the racing yacht i crewed on that we would do better if he gave up the helm and allowed himself space to actually skipper the boat. Its hard to get the best out of helming the boat and maintain the situational awareness simultaneously. Let someone else focus on every windshift and wave sequence and you decide when to tack, what course to steer downwind, which spinnaker to fly and direct the crew etc.

The thread morphed into advice on solo sailing and revealed that for every solo sailor (and there are a lot of us) there are at least 2 opinions!
I first soloed my boat with only tiller lines, but have to love the tiller pilot even if its not essential.
My own rules for solo sailing are: Lifejacket if sailing, PLB and waterproof VHF on my person and a tether if outside the cockpit. Tether inside cockpit if conditions are getting interesting.
 
My own rules for solo sailing are: Lifejacket if sailing, PLB and waterproof VHF on my person and a tether if outside the cockpit. Tether inside cockpit if conditions are getting interesting.
(y)
Not bad rules for skippering a crew, too. How many of us who sail 2-up reckon their partner could get them back on board if they took an unexpected swim?
 
Active member KIWEE JOHN:
To answer Scotties original post i think? Steering is boring! Officers don't steer, they have sailors for that. The Officers stand back and tell the helmsman what to do! I did try and persuade the skipper of the racing yacht i crewed on that we would do better if he gave up the helm and allowed himself space to actually skipper the boat. Its hard to get the best out of helming the boat and maintain the situational awareness simultaneously. Let someone else focus on every windshift and wave sequence and you decide when to tack, what course to steer downwind, which spinnaker to fly and direct the crew etc.

The thread morphed into advice on solo sailing and revealed that for every solo sailor (and there are a lot of us) there are at least 2 opinions!
I first soloed my boat with only tiller lines, but have to love the tiller pilot even if its not essential.
My own rules for solo sailing are: Lifejacket if sailing, PLB and waterproof VHF on my person and a tether if outside the cockpit. Tether inside cockpit if conditions are getting interesting.


I think you might have a typo error with the 2 opinions, (First sentence of the second paragraph), as the Jimmy Corneld Beef recepie lists a figure of 20, not 2.

I agree that tiller pilots are great. I had 4 Navico TP's when my crew mutinied and had to be booted overboard with a free ticket from Gran Canaria, (Las Palmas), back to the capital of Outer Mongolia, and some place down under, that she kept calling, "The land of plenty". No idea where that is, but she demanded a very expensive Quantas ticket, and another much cheaper one with Anaseed or Annasetee Airlines to Kalgooli, (Africa I presume).

The reason I had 4 NPT's, (Navico Tiller Pilots), was that the one I had been using when drysailing, was starting to show signs of a potential failure, (Rather weak and slow to move, just like myself at times). If you are sailing offshore to some distant island or three, one TP is bound to fail, another one that was sent back to the manufacturer in Southern Blighty, will get stuck in the postal system. So that leaves one TP that actually works properly.

MY RULES FOR FOR RIGHT HANDED SAILING:
1/ Seriously good life insurance.
2/ Pantaneous, or Instantaneous full hull coverage, that includes single or solo crew, and does not say 3 fully qualified idiots.
3/ Accident and medical insurance valid in any country.
4/ A copy of a valid WILL, signed, sealed and delivered to all concerned, (Keep a waterproof copy in a pocket).
5/ A heavy duty waterproof passport envelope and shark proof container for it, (Attach the alloy box chain around your neck, as it's not going to help ID your remains if it's attached to a hand or foot that has been bitten clean off). Some rich and infamous left handed sailors, include a spare credit card and sealed wad of 100 usd bills in the same passport tin.
6/ A telescopic shark prodder, (Cut the radio antenna off a small truck or big SUV, then weld a sharp nail on the end, (It helps if you cut the head off after welding and file it to a point), and glue a stolen bike handle cap on the other end), that can fit in the trouser pocket of your good used and abused fireproof Noddy survival suit. (I've got a rather dirty, but functioning top of the range fire resistant dry suit that was made in Finland and cost about 1500 Euros new, without the face mask, flippers and snorkel tube).
Dry suits are very effective at making sure, (If you are lucky), that the scent trail and electrical field factors that guide sharks from a few dozen miles to your normal half naked crew splashing around, whilst pooping and peeing, do not result in one of the attacking sharks deciding to follow the trail to where you are floating.
7/ A sealed small box of Paracetamol, Ibuprofen and the three end of life tablets that they give to terminal cases in old folks homes. Swallow the lot if a big Great White, (More than 15ft), starts to swim slowly around you. Stabbing one of those beasties in the nose with a Ford Capri radio antenna will not work, particularly if you forgot to use the small roll of duck tape to stop the shark prodder telescoping back to your hand.
8/ A waterproof DSC VHF, (Marine not the 2m band ones), stuffed into the small arm pocket of your dry suit.
For the Mega rich left or right single, (I'm not married at present), handed sailor, you can also get the real McCoy EPIRB that fits into the big upper arm survival suit pockets.
9/ Mini flares pack, (Red if possible), in a sealed small box stuffed into a suit pocket.
10/ A real good top of the Fleabay range, (5 straps), safety harness, with a suitable heavy duty dogs lead and expensive Gibbs clip.
 
Last edited:
I think you might have a typo error with the 2 opinions, (First sentence of the second paragraph), as the Jimmy Corneld Beef recepie lists a figure of 20, not 2.

I agree that tiller pilots are great. I had 4 Navico TP's when my crew mutinied and had to be booted overboard with a free ticket from Gran Canaria, (Las Palmas), back to the capital of Outer Mongolia, and some place down under, that she kept calling, "The land of plenty". No idea where that is, but she demanded a very expensive Quantas ticket, and another much cheaper one with Anaseed or Annasetee Airlines to some place Kalgooli, (Africa I presume).
The reason I had 4 NPT's, (Navico Tiller Pilots), was that the one I had been using when daysailing, was starting to show signs of a potential failure, (Rather weak and slow to move, just like myself at times). If you are sailing offshore to some distant island or three, one TP is bound to fail, another one that was sent back to the manufacturer in Southern Blighty, was still stuck in the postal system. So that leaves one TP that actually works.

MY RULES FOR FOR RIGHT HANDED SAILING:
1/ Seriously good life insurance.
2/ Pantaneous, or Instantaneous full hull coverage, that includes single or solo crew, and does not say 3 fully qualified idiots.
3/ Accident insurance valid in any country.
4/ A valid WILL, signed, sealed and delivered to all concerned.
5/ A heavy duty waterproof passport envelope and shark proof container for the passport, (Attach the alloy box chain around your neck, as it's not going to help ID your remains if it's attached to a hand or foot that has been bitten clean off). Some rich and infamous left handed sailors, include a spare credit card and wad of 100 usd bills in the same passport tin.
6/ A telescopic shark prodder, (Cut the radio antenna off small truck or big SUV, then weld a sharp nail on the end, and finally glue a stolen bike handle cap on the other end), that can fit in the trouser pocket of your good used and abused fireproof Noddy survival suit. (I've got a rather dirty, but functioning top of the range fire resistant dry suit that was made in Finland and cost about 1500 Euros new, without the face mask, flippers and snorkel tube).
Dry suits are very effective at making sure, (If you are lucky), that the scent trail and electrical field factors that guide sharks from a few dozen miles to your normal half naked crew splashing around, whilst pooping and peeing, do not result in one of the attacking sharks deciding to follow the trail to where you are floating.
7/ A sealed small box of Paracetamol, Ibuprofen and the three end of life tablets that they give to terminal cases in old folks homes. Swallow the lot if a big Great White, (More than 15ft), starts to swim slowly around you. Stabbing one of those beasties in the nose with a Ford Capri radio antenna will not work, if you forgot the small roll of duck tape to stop the shark prodder telescoping back to your hand grip.
8/ A waterproof DSC VHF ,(Marine not the 2m band ones), stuffed into the small arm pocket of your dry suit. For the Mega rich left or right single, (I'm not married at present), handed sailor, you can also get the real McCoy EPIRB that fits into the big upper arm survival suit pockets.
9/ Mini flares pack, (Red if possible), in a sealed small box stuffed into a suit pocket.
10/ A real good top of the Fleabay range, (5 straps), safety harness, with a suitable heavy duty dogs lead and expensive Gibbs clip.

This has to be the post of the year :)
 
Whether or not it's an autopilot, what's essential is to have some way of fixing the tiller while you do the other stuff like hauling up sails, tacking, making tea, etc. A wheel steered boat shouldn't wander off too much, but a slight gust or a bit of wake can send a tiller over with, err, interesting consequences.


I'm not sure I agree with this, our recent boat was wheel steered and would wander off course almost immediately if left (and it is a 50yr old long keel ketch). An earlier boat we had was a full keel, tiller steered gaffer and that thing would hold a course as long as you balanced the sails.

The method of connecting the steering device to the rudder has a much lower influence than the fundamentals, IMO.

Chiming in regarding autopilots, as we have had one on almost all our boats, but never got round to fitting one on the previous is that they are brilliant, and that's an end of it as far as I am concerned ;) Having sailed around the coast for years I don't think I can recall the last time I saw someone hove to and setting fenders, sails or taking in a reef, so the "essential" argument seems to be nullified by the simple fact that most people prefer progress over hard work, and an AP will do the job far easier.

Final comment - It is an absolute joy on the right boat, with a good setup to go for a cracking day sail by yourself with all the gadgets switched off, from time to time though. One of the reasons why we are going to get a smaller boat when the time is right.
 
An autopilot is useful but not essential and certainly not to be relied on - they can break, don't work well in heavy seas or in shifting and gusty wind conditions, as if that's not enough they are power hungry. I would suggest if you don't have a windvane find yourself a copy of 'Self Steering Without A Windvane' by Lee Woas, similar books might be available.
 
An autopilot is useful but not essential and certainly not to be relied on - they can break, don't work well in heavy seas or in shifting and gusty wind conditions, as if that's not enough they are power hungry. I would suggest if you don't have a windvane find yourself a copy of 'Self Steering Without A Windvane' by Lee Woas, similar books might be available.
I would take issue with very power hungry. My 100w solar more than covers TP32 usage over 24hr period.
 
I'm not sure I agree with this, our recent boat was wheel steered and would wander off course almost immediately if left (and it is a 50yr old long keel ketch). An earlier boat we had was a full keel, tiller steered gaffer and that thing would hold a course as long as you balanced the sails.

The method of connecting the steering device to the rudder has a much lower influence than the fundamentals, IMO.

Chiming in regarding autopilots, as we have had one on almost all our boats, but never got round to fitting one on the previous is that they are brilliant, and that's an end of it as far as I am concerned ;) Having sailed around the coast for years I don't think I can recall the last time I saw someone hove to and setting fenders, sails or taking in a reef, so the "essential" argument seems to be nullified by the simple fact that most people prefer progress over hard work, and an AP will do the job far easier.

Final comment - It is an absolute joy on the right boat, with a good setup to go for a cracking day sail by yourself with all the gadgets switched off, from time to time though. One of the reasons why we are going to get a smaller boat when the time is right.
But it's good to know that heaving to is an option, and it concerns me slightly that some people are telling me it won't/might not work.
 
(y)
Not bad rules for skippering a crew, too. How many of us who sail 2-up reckon their partner could get them back on board if they took an unexpected swim?

I always thought the average rag and stick skipper didn't bother to pick up up anyone daft enough to fall overboard!

I suppose if you are going to sail with another person, or dog, then it might be a good idea to copy the type of overboard system I use, when I fall overboard in a marina, on a mooring or at anchor. That RNLI old boat system consisted of loopy lines, (About 1m for each loop), thru bolted at each loop turn to the rub rail, or hull in some cases. Those loops help the crew plonker, (Some of them make a plonk sound, rather than a splash when they fall in). will allow the crocodile to make its way aft to the first centre cockpit or rescue deck . That deck will have a classic WW2 style scramble net, which should be at least 4 ft wide with square sides of one foot or a bit more..

If a MOB, or even WOB does manage to use the lifelines to reach the net, it is important that the stantions or hand rails are tough enough to allow the full force of 2 people pulling back on them. Scramble nets are not difficult to make, although there are companies making them. The stantions either side of the scramble nets should be solid ones to avoid them getting bent. If the loop lines and nets are set up and rigged correctly, then it should be possible for a fit MOB or WOB, (Nah, I will use POB in future), to climb up the net and pull themselves onto the deck without any assistance.

In, or rather when a POB misses the central scramble net, (It can be rolled up to some extent to keep it out of the oggin, they might be able to use the loopy lines to reach the stern, where it might not be practical to fit another scramble net. So the normal fold or pull down ladder, or steps should suffice.

Finally if there are a lot of sharks around, you might need a good gaff pole and a few body bags, if the cadavers are still fresh, otherwise make sure you stay upwing of the debris field to avoid a nasty whiff from the well bloated.

PS: Don't use the gaff on any dogs you need to rescue. Just blow up your old Avon dingey, to hang over the side so that it acts as a bording platform.
 
There are times when heaving to can be useful, but generally an autopilot is used to keep a boat sailing (or motoring) on route towards a destination. Heaving to stops you sailing and prolongs sailing time. For the majority of singlehanded sailors, an autopilot has become an essential piece of equipment. The unreliable tiller pilots are those with all the electronics in the box with the ram as water can easily enter. On my autopilot, all the electronics are below deck and the only external parts are the ram and control head, so far less likely to fail. Knowing what to do if an autopilot fails (yes, it happened with my old one) is part of the preparation that any singlehanded sailor has to do.
 
An autopilot is useful but not essential and certainly not to be relied on - they can break, don't work well in heavy seas or in shifting and gusty wind conditions, as if that's not enough they are power hungry
I've relied on mine for twenty plus years, it goes on asap and stays on as long as the passage. See #62.
It works well in heavy seas, in shifting and gusty wind conditions and down wind.
As for power, as said, 360ah of battery and 160w of solar handles it ok.
 
Top