how to fit ball valve so lever is at front?

ColinR

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www.victoriashadow.co.uk
I need to fit a new ball valve on the heads outlet and I need the lever to be at the front. If I tighten it as much as I can and it ends up facing the wrong way, do I use brute force to continue turning it or back off a bit so it faces the right way but isn't as tight as it could be? Having first wrapped the thread in ptfe tape. Thanks C
 
Use a locknut (may also be known as a backing nut) so that you can orient the ball valve and then lock it in position. A liberal serving of Loctite 577 will seal nicely.
 
Ball valves and skin fittings are parallel threads so don't have an internal sealing ring.


Actually I have a couple that have a lip inside for a sealing ring fitted in the utility room at home ... they are fitted to washing machine supply lines ... so I think Wife would not be happy for me to remove to show.

I always accepted as you say that they were just threaded - but when I bought those - it was a surprise.
 
Actually I have a couple that have a lip inside for a sealing ring fitted in the utility room at home ... they are fitted to washing machine supply lines ... so I think Wife would not be happy for me to remove to show.

I always accepted as you say that they were just threaded - but when I bought those - it was a surprise.

Interesting, I learn something new everyday as I've never seen those on marine ones. Thanks
 
Definitely dont use brute force you may be able to.use extra turns of ptfe if that doesnt work take it to a plumbers merchant and see if they have a back nut for you.

Definitely dont leave it not fully tightened.With a bit of engine vibration over time it could develope a serious leak.
 
Important that whatever you use if its tape ,cord or loose strands of hemp you need to wrap it the correct way round.

It needs to be tightened into the threads as you tighten the female thread onto the male thread.looking down into the skin fitting you should wrap in a clockwise direction.
 
I have been renewing seacocks and used a DZR 45° elbow , female to male, to improve my pipe runs.

Bought from ASAP, they cheekily didn't mention the female side is tapered BSP not parallel. A locknut and a bit of compound allowed positioning.
 
Bond the fittings with CT1. All my seacocks in place due to very tight access. I simply covered the threads screwed on to get the handles in the correct alignment and left overnight to set.
 

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I've used a mixture of parallel and tapered threads with PTFE tape and tighten up until stiff then a bit more to get the handle in the correct orientation. If this doesn't work, dismantle and add couple more turns of tape. Rarely necessary though.
As for shaking loose, I can't see how this can occur. I don't know any sailers who use loctite.
 
I don't know any sailers who use loctite

You know one now - me ;) - I also know a few boat builders who use 577, which is just liquid thread seal.

I confess to using PTFE tape a fair amount as it's very cheap, but my preference is 577 as is easy to apply, seals really well, provides enough 'lock' to the threads once cured, but is easy to remove and re-seal if needed. It's almost as if the guys at Loctite knew what they were doing :ROFLMAO:
 
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