How to extend this anchor roller on one side only

[webcraft]

Our Vega has a bronze double roller, with the stbd roller used for the anchor.

As you can see in the pics, the distance from windlass to roller is too short for the Spade anchor to sit on the roller, so it travels bungied to the pulpit - which involves a lot of work every time both down and up.

What would be the best way to extend the stbd roller forwards several inches?

 

[RunAgroundHard]

If the dimensions from a standard U channel are acceptable, I would fit the U channel inside and secure where the roller is with button head, cap screw and nylock nuts each side. At the end of the channel, outboard, I would drill to accept the existing bow roller, after cutting a bit of the channel bottom away. At the aft end of the channel, a couple of holes drilled through the channel and cheeks to secure. You might have to reduce the roller width, or bend the outer ends of the channel sides outward ( with bottom cut out) to accept the existing roller width.

 

[Plum]

Our Vega has a bronze double roller, with the stbd roller used for the anchor.

As you can see in the pics, the distance from windlass to roller is too short for the Spade anchor to sit on the roller, so it travels bungied to the pulpit - which involves a lot of work every time both down and up.

What would be the best way to extend the stbd roller forwards several inches?

As Runagroundhard said. To illustrate, albeit with an exaggerated extension.....

 

[Poignard]

I know it probably isn't what you want to hear but what I would do is to move the windlass aft, and have a chain locker between the bunks, with the chain coming down between them into a chain locker.

This is the arrangement I had on my Twister, and it was well worth the effort.

It took weight out of the bow, gave more room on the forward part of the foredeck for handling the anchor and lines and, I could sit comfortably on the forehatch and crank the windlass.

 

[[70521]]

If you are ever in Plymouth I'd recommend Phoenix 316, but am sure you have fabricators up your way.

 

[Neeves]

A number of companies make bow roller and some look suitable as extensions to existing devices, as per Plums post above. Chandlers, such as Jimmy Green, stock them. Google throws up a few, but look at Lewmar and Plastimo. Anchor Right in Oz make a number in different designs - which might be good for ideas

But I'd look at the feasibility of moving the windlass.

Another option - buy an aluminium anchor, Spade or Excel. They weigh in at half the weight of the steel version and work just as well.

Jonathan

 

[ylop]

Another option - buy an aluminium anchor, Spade or Excel. They weigh in at half the weight of the steel version and work just as well.

But aren’t physically smaller are they?

 

[webcraft]

I know it probably isn't what you want to hear but what I would do is to move the windlass aft, and have a chain locker between the bunks, with the chain coming down between them into a chain locker.

This is the arrangement I had on my Twister, and it was well worth the effort.

It took weight out of the bow, gave more room on the forward part of the foredeck for handling the anchor and lines and, I could sit comfortably on the forehatch and crank the windlass.

View attachment 198435

But my partner and I prefer to sleep together . . .

Boat is well balanced, no need to remove weight from the bow.

 

[webcraft]

As Runagroundhard said. To illustrate, albeit with an exaggerated extension.....
View attachment 198420

I don't understand how these things work - they look too flimsy if the boat is veering around in strong winds.

 

[Poignard]

But my partner and I prefer to sleep together . . .

Boat is well balanced, no need to remove weight from the bow.

Ah, you've obviously not been together for long. Mark the words of an old, twice-married man: the time will come when a good night's sleep is more important than cuddling!

What getting weight out of the ends achieves is the reduction in pitching motion. Also increasing buoyancy at the bow means the boat is more likely to rise to a wave than plunge into it

 

[ylop]

I don't understand how these things work - they look too flimsy if the boat is veering around in strong winds.

I assume the expectation is the load is coming via (a pair of) snubber(s) through the bow fairleads rather than over the roler?

 

[alahol2]

If the dimensions from a standard U channel are acceptable, I would fit the U channel inside and secure where the roller is with button head, cap screw and nylock nuts each side. At the end of the channel, outboard, I would drill to accept the existing bow roller, after cutting a bit of the channel bottom away. At the aft end of the channel, a couple of holes drilled through the channel and cheeks to secure. You might have to reduce the roller width, or bend the outer ends of the channel sides outward ( with bottom cut out) to accept the existing roller width.

This ^^^^^^^
Or, as I did, get your local stainless man to weld up a channel that will sit inside your existing roller fitting. Note that any extension will increase the load on your existing fitting quite substantially. I would be very wary of the existing bronze fitting, I suspect it would be liable to crack from the extra leverage. You would definitely need to use strops to prevent snatch loads on the extension.

 

[PCUK]

Ah, you've obviously not been together for long. Mark the words of an old, twice-married man: the time will come when a good night's sleep is more important than cuddling!

Speak for yourself!

 

[Neeves]

But aren’t physically smaller are they?

and are the same physician diimensions as their, heavier, steel brothers

and being lighter will be easier to handle (if other options don't curry favour).

However your post does raise a question - how was any anchor meant to fit?

The OPs solution is a Spade anchor, a wise choice - unless its oversized for the yacht.

I cannot guess the size of the anchor and I don't know the yacht.

So could the anchor be too big. If the anchor is too big (which would be common place and misjudged) then a smaller anchor could be chosen which might be a better fit..

Could the shank be stored off centre, nearer to the camera on the starboard side. So retrieve anchor, on the existing bow roller and manually pull to starboard and aft (so that its snug against the wooden plinth on which the windlass is seated (then secure, aligned off centre.....?

Jonathan

 

[Poignard]

Speak for yourself!

I do!

(and he speaks for me too, says Mrs P. )

 

[ylop]

and are the same physician diimensions as their, heavier, steel brothers

and being lighter will be easier to handle (if other options don't curry favour).

Yeah but his problem is shaft length not weight.

However your post does raise a question - how was any anchor meant to fit?

The OPs solution is a Spade anchor, a wise choice - unless its oversized for the yacht.

I cannot guess the size of the anchor and I don't know the yacht.

He described it as a vega - so presumably 27ft Albin Vega. I'm sure the windlass is not original.

Could the shank be stored off centre, nearer to the camera on the starboard side. So retrieve anchor, on the existing bow roller and manually pull to starboard and aft (so that its snug against the wooden plinth on which the windlass is seated (then secure, aligned off centre.....?

Does seem like that would be easier - even if it means lifting the chain on/off the gypsy.

 

[Neeves]

Yeah but his problem is shaft length not weight. I suspect the anchor could be downsized (most are too big) but the shank will still be too long even with a smaller anchor and the fluke protrude (but maybe, now, acceptably).

He described it as a vega - so presumably 27ft Albin Vega. I'm sure the windlass is not original.

Does seem like that would be easier - even if it means lifting the chain on/off the gypsy.

But if you have to faff about its easier with a light anchor.

The windlass does look 'large'

You retrieve anchor until the anchor is at it 'pivot' point - so the weight is taken by the roller and the tension in the chain. You stop retrieval, grab shackle (attached to chain and and anchor) and pull anchor aft and to starboard. The chain will go slack and you simply pull to clear windlass until the chain stops further movement aft. Attach shackle to judiciously located chain hook - lash fluke - sail away.

This involves no surgery to wallet (other than buy a new hook). Its simple - and denies much opportunity for an endless anchor thread.

What's not to like?

Jonathan

 

[dunedin]

I assume the expectation is the load is coming via (a pair of) snubber(s) through the bow fairleads rather than over the roler?

That is a great point, but often overlooked - whilst properly anchored with a snubber there is only a tiny load (the weight of a couple of metres of chain) on the roller used to stow the anchor. The real work is done via the snubber.

 

[Daydream believer]

Deleted

 

[noelex]

On our previous yacht, the boat builder fitted a pivoting bow roller extension. I think it would solve your problem. The photo below may give you some ideas.

The hinged extension is in bare aluminium, and the fixed portion is painted white.