How the hell do I open this?

[Colvic Watson]

This is the bronze raw water strainer on my Shrimper 19 so space is limited. I can’t budge it no matter how hard I try but it looks like it should accept some kind of tool to twist it open. Is there a specific tool?

 

[Tranona]

Yes - a bar or a screwdriver across the ears. Make sure you grease the threads when you put it back together.

 

[Colvic Watson]

Oh I’m such a numpty. Thank you Tranona.

 

[Fr J Hackett]

No doubt that at some time in the past there was a tool that slipped over the lugs but the easiest way will be to put a flat bar diagonally through the lugs and twist.

 

[veshengro]

Is there room to lay a flat metal bar between the lugs, from 7 o'clock to 1 o'clock and tap the bottom end towards 6 o'clock?

Type too slow...

 

[Rappey]

When they are quite stuck or seized its possible to use so much for that you end up spinning the skin fitting in the hull...

 

[Daydream believer]

Is there room to lay a flat metal bar between the lugs, from 7 o'clock to 1 o'clock and tap the bottom end towards 6 o'clock?

Would that be AM or PM?

 

[Poignard]

 

[Fr J Hackett]

View attachment 191746View attachment 191747

Is this something else you are trying to flog

 

[Poignard]

Is this something else you are trying to flog

I give you special price but don't tell nobody.

 

[William_H]

If OP can't get a bar or screw driver across the lugs. He might consider getting very large 1/2 drive drive socket and grinding slots in the perimeter that match the lugs.
As said support the body against turning force . ol'will

 

[Refueler]

There used to be a key you could buy ... basically a flat bar with two slots in that matched the lugs. But like most people - a bar or screwdriver across between the lugs and turn.

Flat bar is best though as a screwdriver having a rounded shaft can slip UP the lugs if its very tight. If flat bar etc doesn't do it ... then large adjustable spanner across the lugs and make sure pipe grips are also used on the body ...

I have this on my engine water intake .... and I often have to open to clear the weed in the filter from my home channel. I put back hand tight + small amount ~1/4 to 1/2 turn with bar ... I do not wind it real tight !!

 

[Poignard]

and grease the threads.

 

[Refueler]

and grease the threads.

Yes .. but TBH - if opened often - as mine is - I haven't greased mine for many years !!

 

[Stemar]

Yes .. but TBH - if opened often - as mine is - I haven't greased mine for many years !!

Yes, but I used to open mine once a year to evict barnacles, and it would get a bit stiff in that time. A bit of grease on a thread you want to undo is almost always a good idea.

 

[Poignard]

Yes .. but TBH - if opened often - as mine is - I haven't greased mine for many years !!

Have it your own way.

Make sure there is grease on the threads.

 

[LittleSister]

You could try any or all of -

Putting penetrating oil, e.g. PlusGas, around the join to seep into the thread.`

Heat the cap (only) significantly (while trying not to heat the body) with a blowtorch or hot air gun so differential expansion can help break the grip on the thread (i.e. 'crush' the rust or whatever on the threads). Allow to cool before going back to attempting to turn it.

If possible (unlikely, I guess) before attempting to turn the cap, heat the body (but not the cap). For added temperature difference also spray the cap with plumbers freezing spray.

Try to turn the cap by repeatedly tapping sideways on the two lugs simultaneously with two (small?) hammers (or substitutes for those). n.b (1) hammer on opposite sides of the two lugs from your viewpoint, so both tending to turn the cap in the same anti-clockwise direction; and (b) the vibration so caused is important, not just the force.

 

[Refueler]

Have it your own way.

Make sure there is grease on the threads.

I'm not arguing against grease .... just saying that mine unscrews and screws up easily because I open it at least once a month to clean the gauze filter inside.

 

[Refueler]

You could try any or all of -

Putting penetrating oil, e.g. PlusGas, around the join to seep into the thread.`

Heat the cap (only) significantly (while trying not to heat the body) with a blowtorch or hot air gun so differential expansion can help break the grip on the thread (i.e. 'crush' the rust or whatever on the threads). Allow to cool before going back to attempting to turn it.

If possible (unlikely, I guess) before attempting to turn the cap, heat the body (but not the cap). For added temperature difference also spray the cap with plumbers freezing spray.

Try to turn the cap by repeatedly tapping sideways on the two lugs simultaneously with two (small?) hammers (or substitutes for those). n.b (1) hammer on opposite sides of the two lugs from your viewpoint, so both tending to turn the cap in the same anti-clockwise direction; and (b) the vibration so caused is important, not just the force.

Pal of mine in UK tried the hammer trick on his and ended up cracking off a lug ...

Most of these will have a sea-valve under - so you can close of completely. If so - why not then unscrew the whole item off and service it on the bench - put back and open sea-valve ?

 

[LittleSister]

Pal of mine in UK tried the hammer trick on his and ended up cracking off a lug ...

That's why I emphasised
- 2 hammers simultaneously (so turning, not just knocking the whole thing to one side), and
- vibration, rather than solely force.