How much winterizing when still in the water?

[Nostrodamus]

If you keep your boat in the water over winter how much winterizing do you do and what are the most important things to do?

 

[G12]

I guess it depends on if you're using her or not.
Engine coolant needs to be done, some put water/antifreeze in the salt water circuit of the engine if it's not going to be started. Not likely to freeze but antifreeze is also a corrosion inhibitor.
If you're not using her then get everything off to stop it going mouldy, unless you're in a marina with power, heating and a dehumidifire of course.
Sails, again, off if you're not going to sea, covered as usual if you're using the boat.

 

[Ricd]

If your not going to use her...change the oil and oil filter. Pull 50% antifreeze into the raw water side and top up/replace engine coolant as necessary. The rest is about moisture management - I have always put a blast of WD over the electric panel and covered the engine air intake in a tight plastic bag. Don't forget to put a bit veg oil down the heads to lubricate the pump which will not be moved for some months. Either heat/dehumidify or get cushions/lifejackets/charts /books etc off.

 

[pvb]

Mine's marina-based and stays in the water. Most winters, I don't do anything to the engine, and don't use a duhumidifier. But I do ensure good ventilation, and I do leave the hot and cold taps open in the galley and heads. Maybe once a month, I'll run the engine on load for half an hour or so.

If the weather looks like being severe enough to cause the water in the marina basin to freeze, I put a small heater with a frost-stat in the engine compartment. I've done this a couple of times in the last few years.

 

[Tranona]

If you keep your boat in the water over winter how much winterizing do you do and what are the most important things to do?

Where you are, nothing special except allow ventilation if you are leaving the boat for any length of time. If you have shore power then keep the batteries topped up and perhaps a low powered tubular heater to help air circulate. Run the engine regularly under load for minimum 30 minutes so it gets to operating temperature. If you do have problems with condensation then a dehumidifier is useful. If you are living on it, just behave normally. If you are comfortable then the boat will be.

 

[planteater]

This is my first year with an inboard (1GM10). How do I get anti-freeze into the raw water system while afloat?

 

[Pagetslady]

Close the raw water sea cock remove the pipe and immerse it in a bucket of 50% antifreeze and start the engine get someone to watch the exhaust and stop the engine when the water coming out turns the color of the antifreeze job done.
Mike

 

[robmcg]

Shut off the engine seawater intake seacock, disconnect the hose from the seacock, pop it in a bucket of 50:50 freshwater and antifreeze and run engine. If afloat, catch the exhaust water in a bucket as the antifreeze isn't good for marine life. Run for say 20 seconds and job done!!

- Damn!! Too slow!!!

 

[planteater]

Thanks! Sounds simple enough. Do I use regular car antifreeze or is there a less toxic marine version?

 

[snooks]

If you keep your boat in the water over winter how much winterizing do you do and what are the most important things to do?

We kept our boat in the water up in Largs last year, temps dropped to -10 or -12 depending on the forecast.

We didn't do anything to the engine as we were going to be using her every now and again.

We left her with a dehumidifier going overnight and that was about it.

I'm more worried about the engine freezing this year now she's out of the water.

We did have one problem, the olive oil solidified, but a min or two in hot water and it was fine again.

 

[Tranona]

This is my first year with an inboard (1GM10). How do I get anti-freeze into the raw water system while afloat?

Really no need to do anything. Had my 1GM for nearly 20 years, mostly in water all year round. In our environment seawater is highly unlikely to freeze.

It is, however, worth flushing with fresh water from time to time, checking the anode and removing the water pipes make sure they are clear - particularly the bypass hose and the spigot where water goes from the pump into the block.

 

[rafiki_]

You have to drain the water system out from your taps and calorifier, as this will freeze if we have temps like last year. It is best if you can get a foot pump onto a hose to blow out the calorifier, as it is surprising how much water is left in this even after draining. There were a few boats who broke taps and hoses last year.

I have 2x 120w tube (greenhouse) heaters in the engine bay, off a thermal plug, set to come on below 5C, as there will be some hysteresis in the system. I checked the temp in my engine bay with outside temp at -12C, and it was just above freezing. I also used a blanket to cover the engines, and stuffed the air intakes up to reduce heat loss. Those who say do nothing have been lucky so far. I would always trade £30-£50 of electricity against a cracked block!!

I use 120W in the saloon, and have 3 granule desicators to reduce humidity. These have worked very well, and there is no mustiness in the saloon. Some use dehumidifiers, but there have been reports of electrical fires occasionally, so I have steered clear of these.

There are mixed thoughts on starting engines over the winter. I did this regularly in my first winter, but my technician reckons it is best not to. When the engine is very cold, and the oil thick, you are likely to do more damage to the bearings. Last winter I did not start the engines at all, and they were fine come march at the start of the season. I ensured the batteries were topped up every 6 weeks or so.

 

[Terra-Loon]

It's my first winter with my new boat, I've just taken delivery of a Meaco dehumidifier to sort out the damp and keep the residual temperature up. My intention is for it to continually drain down the sink, so i'll be keeping the gally seacock open.

I intend to visit the boat every fortnight as usual as I plan to do as much sailing as possible over the winter months anyway. Hopefully that should keep the engine in good nick.

Is there anything else that I should be doing?

 

[testmonkey]

Close the raw water sea cock remove the pipe and immerse it in a bucket of 50% antifreeze and start the engine get someone to watch the exhaust and stop the engine when the water coming out turns the color of the antifreeze job done.
Mike

consider that 1GM10 is a raw water cooled engine, doing what you suggest doesn't guarantee the thermostat opens. If the engine is cold you won't get antifreeze into the block and water in block can freeze and you can end up with cracked engine block.

I would suggest disconnecting the coolant hose which routes water from block to exhaust elbow, then put a slightly larger hose over it and route water back to the bucket with antifreeze. Then run the engine until it is warm which ensures thermostat has opened and antifreeze gets distributed to the entire engine block (For health and safety reasons watch out for exhaust fumes).

Now, if the intention is to keep the boat in water, in mild climates anti-freeze treatment is not necessary as propeller shaft / saildrive will carry over enough "warmth" to keep the water in the engine block from freezing solid. However, if the boat is out of the water it is key to either drain the whole cooling system (difficult) or to apply anti-freeze in it. I've seen cracked blocks and they are almost impossible to repair (welding won't work...)

 

[dunedin]

We have found less trouble leaving afloat and using regularly than when lifted out. Even last year with -16C was OK.

One thing have learnt - before leaving the boat switch off water pump and then run tap to reduce pressure. Lessens the risk of freshwater pipes splitting
We use dehumidifier from autumn to spring, and two greenhouse heaters for deep winter - with timer on dehumidifier and temperature switch for heaters.
One heater near engine, one heater near fresh water pump
Electricity costs a fraction of lift costs

 

[planteater]

How about taking the boat out for one last blast under motor, returning to the mooring and then running anti freeze through it? It's bit of a faff, though.

Or is there a way of draining all the seawater out of a raw cooled engine? Surely that would protect it.

 

[maby]

How about taking the boat out for one last blast under motor, returning to the mooring and then running anti freeze through it? It's bit of a faff, though.

Or is there a way of draining all the seawater out of a raw cooled engine? Surely that would protect it.

If you can disconnect the pipe from the inlet to the engine block, wrap a bit of paper round it, put it in your mouth and give it a good blow!

As others have said, it's very unlikely that the raw water side will freeze unless you are up in the far north of the country. It's probably worth dropping the level in the calorifier and possibly in the fresh water tanks - those are expensive and difficult to replace if they do freeze up. The pipe work is probably all plastic and unlikely to burst - easy to fix if it does.

If you have a holding tank, make sure that's drained - doesn't bear thinking about if that bursts!

 

[bobgarrett]

I left mine in last year, in a tidal marina. I went down on the coldest morning - may car said it was -5c when I arrived - and found thick frost on the pontoons and on the deck, a thin film of ice over the main hatch. But on going below I found the heater thermostat set to +4c had not come on and the taps etc all worked.
The marina staff said the surface had frozen in one corner of the marina.
I think as long as you are in a tidal marina the boat is kept warm from below. However, note I had blocked air vents and left dehumidifier to run an hour a day to keep down moisture.
This year I will be lifted out so full precautions for engine, tanks, pipes etc will be necessary.

 

[Dockhead]

I am also interested in this topic. My boat spent the last two winters in the water in a marina on the Hamble. I left electrical heaters running with the thermostats set at the lowest setting. I did nothing else, since I sail all winter, at least once a month. Had no problems.

This year I am on a mid-river pontoon in the Hamble with no shore power. I understand that being in the water keeps the boat warmer than the ambient air temperature, but with no heat at all -- are there risks? I am wondering whether I need to drain down the fresh water system and/or run antifreeze through the engine raw water circuit. PITA to do once or twice a month, after every little sailing weekend.

 

[rafiki_]

I am also interested in this topic. My boat spent the last two winters in the water in a marina on the Hamble. I left electrical heaters running with the thermostats set at the lowest setting. I did nothing else, since I sail all winter, at least once a month. Had no problems.

This year I am on a mid-river pontoon in the Hamble with no shore power. I understand that being in the water keeps the boat warmer than the ambient air temperature, but with no heat at all -- are there risks? I am wondering whether I need to drain down the fresh water system and/or run antifreeze through the engine raw water circuit. PITA to do once or twice a month, after every little sailing weekend.

I would definitely drain the fresh water system, see my note above.

Long range forcecasts are predicting another cold winter. We had -19 C at our Marina. 10 boats suffered significant damage, particularly those with only raw water cooling. 4 boats sank due to either sea cocks freezing and fracturing or engine blocks. There are still a couple to be rectified on the hard standing as owners save for new engines.