oldharry
Well-Known Member
I have manhandled my masts up and down on boats <26 feet afloat and ashore for over 60 years. Up to 20 -21ft its perfectly feasible to do it alone and once you know what you are doing, pretty safe. I never used gin poles. dangerous if they slip, and never had an A frame. Its better and safer to have a second pair of hands.
Remove any sails and detach the boom before you start. Tie any running rigging back t the mast so it doesnt flo around and trip you.
Basic rules:
1. YOU MUST HAVEA TABERNACLE MOUNTED MAST. As above, masts hinged at the base look neater, but any twist as the spar is moving will snap it and the spar will fall. Keel mounted masts (rare on small cruisers anyway) are not for beginners, and nearly always need a crane, or a fit crew of 3-4 who know what they are doing.
2. The boat must be level, afloat or ashore.
3. A quiet day. You will very quickly lose control if the wind's above F3
4. Rig a safety line through a block on the bow fitting, and keep it taught as the mast comes up or down. This is where a second pair of hands makes things much safer.
Have a scissor prop to catch the mast as far aft as possible. safest is two bits of timber ina scissor configuration, with the feet going out to the toe rail, and the pivot high enough to hold the mast horizontal when it is down. The wider the upper jaws the easier it is within reason! This needs to be lashed so it doesnt shift half way through - it will if it can!
Once any inner forestays are detached (central or to the sides), secure the safety line preferably on a mast cleat
Detach the forestay, but DONT LET GO until you are sure the safety line is holding!
Stand behind the mast, and carefully release the safety line, and start easing the mast back. Quite often it will stick in the tabernacle and not want to shift straight away. Once it is moving, the load on your hands will rapidly increase. Move aft as the spar is lowered.
Ease it down onto its scissor crutch, making sure it is secure befroe you let go!
IMPORTANT On a 20 footer, the crutch will almost certainly be the wrong side of the balance point, so when you release the tabernacle bolt it will almost certainly want to tip backwards, and kick the mast foot upwards!
The first two or three times its much easier if you have a second and even a thrid pair of hands,
Working ona bigger boat I have raised and lowered masts with just two of us, one man on the safety line well ashore forward of the boat to steady the spar as it drops. At deck level, he will have complete control of the spar until its down to about 30degrees off horizontal, by which time the deck crew will be able to handle it without difficulty.
Roller reefing jib spar makes it defintiely a 2 man job unless you really know what you are doing! Dont try unles you want to rpalce your reefing gear each time!
As you can see from this, this is NOT something to do more than twice a season, which is why the mooring you ahve found is so cheap!
ANOTHER SOLUTION: Buy a Gunter or gaff rigged boat like a 17foot Lysander (if you can find one nowadays!). The spars are much shorter and lighter, making raising and lowering much easier. Drascobes are ginter rigged to make them easily towable for example.
Lowering the mast is something many small owners do every season, specially if (as I did) you needed to tow the it home each winter.
As i said, I have done it with a 26 footer, but ONLY when you know THOROUGHLY what you are doing.
Finally, if things go pear shaped and you lose control GET CLEAR! Boats can be fixed much more easily than your body!
This has been standard procedure for generations of small boat owners at the beginning and end of each season. People who started with bigger boats never had any of this, so dont realise just how simple it is!
EDIT. DONT even consider it if you have back trouble!
Remove any sails and detach the boom before you start. Tie any running rigging back t the mast so it doesnt flo around and trip you.
Basic rules:
1. YOU MUST HAVEA TABERNACLE MOUNTED MAST. As above, masts hinged at the base look neater, but any twist as the spar is moving will snap it and the spar will fall. Keel mounted masts (rare on small cruisers anyway) are not for beginners, and nearly always need a crane, or a fit crew of 3-4 who know what they are doing.
2. The boat must be level, afloat or ashore.
3. A quiet day. You will very quickly lose control if the wind's above F3
4. Rig a safety line through a block on the bow fitting, and keep it taught as the mast comes up or down. This is where a second pair of hands makes things much safer.
Have a scissor prop to catch the mast as far aft as possible. safest is two bits of timber ina scissor configuration, with the feet going out to the toe rail, and the pivot high enough to hold the mast horizontal when it is down. The wider the upper jaws the easier it is within reason! This needs to be lashed so it doesnt shift half way through - it will if it can!
Once any inner forestays are detached (central or to the sides), secure the safety line preferably on a mast cleat
Detach the forestay, but DONT LET GO until you are sure the safety line is holding!
Stand behind the mast, and carefully release the safety line, and start easing the mast back. Quite often it will stick in the tabernacle and not want to shift straight away. Once it is moving, the load on your hands will rapidly increase. Move aft as the spar is lowered.
Ease it down onto its scissor crutch, making sure it is secure befroe you let go!
IMPORTANT On a 20 footer, the crutch will almost certainly be the wrong side of the balance point, so when you release the tabernacle bolt it will almost certainly want to tip backwards, and kick the mast foot upwards!
The first two or three times its much easier if you have a second and even a thrid pair of hands,
Working ona bigger boat I have raised and lowered masts with just two of us, one man on the safety line well ashore forward of the boat to steady the spar as it drops. At deck level, he will have complete control of the spar until its down to about 30degrees off horizontal, by which time the deck crew will be able to handle it without difficulty.
Roller reefing jib spar makes it defintiely a 2 man job unless you really know what you are doing! Dont try unles you want to rpalce your reefing gear each time!
As you can see from this, this is NOT something to do more than twice a season, which is why the mooring you ahve found is so cheap!
ANOTHER SOLUTION: Buy a Gunter or gaff rigged boat like a 17foot Lysander (if you can find one nowadays!). The spars are much shorter and lighter, making raising and lowering much easier. Drascobes are ginter rigged to make them easily towable for example.
Lowering the mast is something many small owners do every season, specially if (as I did) you needed to tow the it home each winter.
As i said, I have done it with a 26 footer, but ONLY when you know THOROUGHLY what you are doing.
Finally, if things go pear shaped and you lose control GET CLEAR! Boats can be fixed much more easily than your body!
This has been standard procedure for generations of small boat owners at the beginning and end of each season. People who started with bigger boats never had any of this, so dont realise just how simple it is!
EDIT. DONT even consider it if you have back trouble!