How do you clean electric wires?

[ffiill]

This winter I intend to tackle poor plug and socket continuity on my various masthead systems.
I can guarantee when I remove the plug and clean back some cable the usually bright copper wire will be blackened as a result of moisture.Same will be the case with my VHF coax.
Over the years whether on cars;trailers;caravans and boats I have scraped with a knife;cleaned with emery cloth/wet and dry but never can I get the wire end clean enough to properly tin it with solder even if I use plumbers flux as well as the resin core solder.
Can anyone suggest a suitable chemical based solution/solution!
I have used salt and vinegar to great effect in cleaning brass and bronze fittings but need a quick on site solution remote from a pan and stove.
Remember how as a lad we used to clean copper penny pennies in conc.hydrochloric acid when the teacher wasnt looking!-one drop on penny in the sink plus tap full of cold water in days when one penny half fare took me home on bus.

 

[duncan99210]

I've used oxalyic acid (normally used to remove rust stains) to clean the ends of wire which then took solder quite well using plumbers flux. Also try coca cola - it cleans coins quite well so that might be a way ahead. However, make sure to rinse off whatevder you use and then dry properly.

 

[ffiill]

Hi yes I was wondering about oxyalic and its readily available

 

[Giblets]

Before you insert the wires into the terminals why not dip them in petroleum jelly to help prevent corrosion. Like what you do with battery terminals.

 

[DaveS]

I clean corrosion off wires, contacts etc. using a fibreglass pencil. It's quick and effective, but it's important to get rid of the residue - particularly if you wear contact lenses!

Agree about Vaseline - invaluable stuff.

 

[VicS]

If you use oxalic acid, or even something acidic like a cola, you will end up with acid wicking up the wire under the insulation with a potential perhaps for further corrosion where you cannot see it.

I scrape clean and tin any affected wire ends using a non-corrosive resin based flux intended for electrical and electronics use.
Unfortunately the particular brand I use is no longer available but I have more than enough to see me out.

 

[boguing]

A firend and I were chatting about this. He recalled that ay a 3 Bar wind tunnel the air could be felt and heard as it came through the wiring 'twixt chamber and contol room. This shows that the air gap inside an insulated wire is significant.

This then makes a good capillary tube.

Tinned wire is the best solution, but we were wondering what could be induced to fill the wire from new. Didn't really finish the conversation, but thought I'd mention it.

 

[ghostlymoron]

The best solution would be to pull new tinned wires up your mast. Although this would not be an easy option, it may be the best in the long run. External wires on a boat are subject to extreme conditions and tinned (marine) wires/cables are able to resist almost indefinately. Internal wiring is OK in automotive grade.
I wouldn't go for coca cola or any liquid as, as someone has said, it could be transmitted further up where you can't see by capillary action.

 

[ffiill]

I am aware that its the capillary action that causes the problem-once tried to reuse old TV aerial on my house and cut it probably 20 feet from bare end-after 10 years or so even here the wire and screening had sucumbed to corrosion.
Cabling up inside mast is now 30 years old so may just rewire if old cables are prepared to shift!

 

[Giblets]

Like I said ends dunked in petroleum jelly will also help seal the gap between wires and insulation.

 

[greenalien]

The best solution would be to pull new tinned wires up your mast.

+1 - it's surprising how far up a cable the corrosion can go, and new cables should see you right for another 30 years.

 

[ffiill]

In the few hours since I put up this thread I have decided that rewiring is the best option and I am going to replace my deck plugs with deck glands-did this on my last boat to great effect-far quicker than trying to clean wire ends;plugs and sockets/test for continuity etc.

 

[MontyMariner]

BIOX is what you need:
"Biox removes tarnish, oxides, verdigris, manufacturing process, contaminants from Iron, Steel, Copper, Brass and Aluminium."

 

[bessremy]

The best flux I've found to tin things (even works on stainless) is phosporic acid also sometimes know as orthophosphoric acid.We use this all the time in my line of work and even if it wicks up the insulation if you put enough solder on with the correct temperature the solder should follow it.Try to get the older type solder and not the new leadless type.