How do I install a new outhaul line on this boom?

[DangerousPirate]

I have the issue that I can't rig a new outhaul line on my boom. I can't feed it through an pull it out, I believe there is a block at the mast end of the boom inside somewhere, but the old line chaved and I pulled the left overs out, disconnected to anything. The wire, which I tried to trace, gets stuck in the middle of the boom somewhere, and I can't seem to open the end at all when I tried it with a screwdriver and muscle. I couldn't move any of those three screws even fraction of a milimeter, and now I am not sure what to do about it. I could maybe try with a powertool, but is that even the right approach?

 

[LadyInBed]

I think you will have to drill out the rivets and take the complete assembly off.
Then you can look down the boom with a torch to see what obstructions are there.

 

[Minerva]

I would start by unscrewing that end plate to see if that will give access to the inside of the boom.

If not, at least you will get to rotate it round 'til its the correct orientation before re-installing and save my OCD from going haywire looking at the second photo!

 

[LadyInBed]

I would start by unscrewing that end plate

I can't seem to open the end at all when I tried it with a screwdriver and muscle. I couldn't move any of those three screws even fraction of a milimeter

!!

 

[vyv_cox]

Yes, drill out the rivets and remove the end. When you put it back tap the holes you drilled in the end assembly and use set screws ready for next time ?

 

[DangerousPirate]

I would start by unscrewing that end plate to see if that will give access to the inside of the boom.

If not, at least you will get to rotate it round 'til its the correct orientation before re-installing and save my OCD from going haywire looking at the second photo!

Sorry for your OCD, but the boom is straight normally. I just attached the main halyard there and pulled it up because the topping lift is on the side of the mast and I didn't feel like climbing on the deck just for that. It's on my bucket list to lead the topping lift back to the cockpit at some point, but I need a different diameter rope for the clutches to hold that. Also to discourage boarding parties with OCD.

For the drilling out bits of the replies: Which rivets exactly? I only see the screws?

Oh btw, this might be important to note when we talk about opening the boom - the boom is a rolling boom with a handle at the end. So I assume there is some sort of mechanism going on in the middle of it. I assume that stuff got in the way when I tried to put the wire through.

 

[andsarkit]

These rivets hold the complete end fitting in place.

You will probably need plusgas, boiling water and a rubber mallet to remove the casting. I think you will need to remove it anyway to gain access to the lines.
Refit the casting with some grease or sealant and it will come out easier next time. You can use either rivets or screws when you replace it.

 

[DangerousPirate]

Thank you, will see what I can find. I have various sizes of screws on the boat, some should fit

These rivets hold the complete end fitting in place.
View attachment 142354
You will probably need plusgas, boiling water and a rubber mallet to remove the casting. I think you will need to remove it anyway to gain access to the lines.
Refit the casting with some grease or sealant and it will come out easier next time. You can use either rivets or screws when you replace it.

 

[bignick]

Take the boom home.
Drill the rivets holding both ends into the boom. THE RIVETS ON THE SIDE, NOT THE SCREWS ON THE END. (Apologies for shouting ?.)
PourBOILING water onto the ends of the boom section (avoid pouring lots onto the ends as you want the centre section to expand, not the ends).. This will cause the extrusion to expand and also dissolve some of the corrosion holding the bits together.
remove the ends..

You may find there’s a 2:1 pulley inside the boom, to make getting higher out haul tension easier.

 

[Thistle]

I agree that drilling out the rivets is probably the way to go. But you could also try putting a screwdriver in the screw slots and tapping it with a hammer. That will sometimes help stubborn screws to break out. Use a proper engineer's screwdriver with the metal shaft visible at the end of the handle. Alternatively try an impact driver and for the first couple of taps set it to screw in, not out. Again, that will sometimes help to break out stubborn screws.

 

[William_H]

Drill oput the rivets and try the boiling water trick however in trying to get the end plug out of the boom do not be surprised if you end up cutting the boom shorter at the edge of the plug and peeling away the extrusion where it will be corroded on to the plug. Cut out the slot for pulley and refit the plug. Hopefully you have enough length to get away with it. yes it is a common problem that plugs in boom end both front and back get corroded into place. good luck. ol'will

 

[Daydream believer]

The trouble with screws is that you will probably just shear the heads & leave the piece of screw still in the metal. Thus preventing removal of the end fitting. If there are rivets as suggested & these give you access, then it may be wise to forget the screws & go for the rivets. At least you can drill these right out without leaving parts in place.
When you do get it apart it might be worth chucking the pulley inside ( if that is what you find) and placing a dynema line right through, in lieu of wire. You can possibly put a small block & tackle on the end between gooseneck & deck for tension if it does not interfere with the roller furling. With nicely spliced eyes etc it will make a neat job as well & you "may" be able to replace in future years without removing the ends.
Alternatively, you could put a loose block & tackle inside the boom as the current one may be corroded & may well be on a slide inside the tube creating friction. The pullies can be quite small as clew load is not excessive. That way they will be easy to remove in the future.

 

[Boathook]

Drill the rivets out and remove the entire fitting from the boom. Take the whole fitting to a machine shop and ask them to remove the 3 imperial screws on the end. Be careful with heat as there are 'nylon' 'washers' on either end and round the shaft. Replace all parts with suitable sized domed headed allen bolts.
Had to do this to mine the other year. I wrecked one of the screws so got charged extra for causing damage !! I put the whole lot back together using expensive 'paste' on the threads and nylon washers to try and stop corrosion between the stainless and aluminium. If I was on the boat I would take a picture .....

 

[Bilgediver]

Does the slot open into the inside of the boom at any part of its length enough to view inside?

 

[DangerousPirate]

Does the slot open into the inside of the boom at any part of its length enough to view inside?

There is only the tiny slot near the mastend, where the outhaul cones out. But I cant see inside, it is too small to make anything out, only feel around with my fingers.

I will drill the rivets out, have to get new ones first so I can put it back together

 

[LadyInBed]

I will drill the rivets out, have to get new ones first so I can put it back together

If you re-rivet, they don't have to be anything special as most of the force is compression.

 

[vyv_cox]

If you re-rivet, they don't have to be anything special as most of the force is compression.

As I said earlier, if you fit set screws (bolts threaded right to the head) after tapping threads into the holes previously occupied by the rivets you will be able to remove the end cap next time. The casting is quite thick and will be easy to tap. This is an easy engineering operation that you will find useful in future. The stainless set screws can easily be prevented from corroding in by applying Duralac or even water resistant grease.

 

[Bilgediver]

There is only the tiny slot near the mastend, where the outhaul cones out. But I cant see inside, it is too small to make anything out, only feel around with my fingers.

I will drill the rivets out, have to get new ones first so I can put it back together

They sell suitable rivets in our chandlery. yours may have them too in the hardware. You will need a pop riveter.

 

[StefanSG]

You will need a pop riveter.

And forearms like Popeye

Ssg

 

[LadyInBed]

As I said earlier, if you fit set screws (bolts threaded right to the head) after tapping threads into the holes previously occupied by the rivets you will be able to remove the end cap next time. The casting is quite thick and will be easy to tap. This is an easy engineering operation that you will find useful in future. The stainless set screws can easily be prevented from corroding in by applying Duralac or even water resistant grease.

I agree, but my operative word was 'If'. Also, and I apologize if I'm wrong, but I get the feeling that the OP won't have a set of Taps. Maybe self tappers would be a better option.