vyv_cox
Well-Known Member
I share your concern. However, if the casting on the OP's boom end is as thick as my later Kemp one, which I suspect it is, I doubt whether self tappers would go into it.
How do I install a new outhaul line on this boom?
- Thread starter DangerousPirate
- Start date
DangerousPirate
Well-Known Member
Hm, maybe I just go with the screws then. At the moment it's raining and raining and raining, and I don't feel like being out and looking at it. I lashed the outhaul, but can't adjust it. Somehow I have the feeling that never anything is as straight forward as it initially seems on a boat. haha
Boathook
Well-Known Member
A basic set of taps and dies isnt to expensive. The casting in my boom was thick but the alloy was soft.
I got part recast as not made any more, and kemp masts told me that the mix was 'shit'. I went to the casters and told them and they knew. New casting was from a much stronger mix.
I got part recast as not made any more, and kemp masts told me that the mix was 'shit'. I went to the casters and told them and they knew. New casting was from a much stronger mix.
William_H
Well-Known Member
I would strongly suggest you keep sailing with lashing for out haul. As is said earlier it is likely the plug will be well stuck in boom. Major work to get it to move that is after getting rivets out. If you get it out and refit I would advocate ali rivets (easy to drill out again) or if casting is too thick tap a thread in to the casting then use lots of duralac or grease on screw. Buy yourself an 4mm and a 5mm taper tap. Or whatever suits your screws you use. You will find a thousand uses for taps. Into GRP you can run them in with battery drill. Then reverse it.
Now a friend recently wanted to replace wooden rubbing strip around a 22 fter. I suggested use of tap and 5mm CS screws. Helpers held long wooden pieces in place. It worked brilliantly a few helpers bought their battery drills. One with bit for initial hole correct for tap. ie a bit smaller. Then another drill with bit for enlarging hole in wood. Another drill with CS bit for counter sink. Lastly another drill with tip for driving screw in. He go about 30 screws in, in 2 hrs and later fitted nuts on the inside where they were accessible and needed for strength.
The tapped hole means better water seal and no need for a helper holding the screw or nut on the inside. ol'will
VicS
Well-Known Member
If the interal arrangement is like the diagrams you can find on-line with a simple 2:1 purchase using a single block inside the boom you will have to remove the entire fitting (goose neck + roller reefing ??) from the mast end of the boom as well.
Personally I would rivet them again when refitting. The rivets can always be drilled out again if necessary,. I don't like the idea od hexagonal bolt heads on the boom.
vyv_cox
Well-Known Member
No need to have hex head bolts, these are mine, flat head screws. I think they were last turned in about 2009 so I checked that they still turn. Glad to report ?
(Photo too big for the forum and it seems I cannot reduce resolution on the phone so you will have to imagine it?)
Stemar
Well-Known Member
VicS
Well-Known Member
I imagine you mean pan head machine screws.
Vyv was recommending set screws, which have hex heads.
vyv_cox
Well-Known Member
That's the word! Pan head it is.
DangerousPirate
Well-Known Member
Hmm... does anyone actually know this boom? Name is on the picture, boat is a Nicholson 30 MKII from the 70s.
Ardenfour
Well-Known Member
Got one lying in my garden, changed my nic30 boom for a Z-spars. Had the same issue with the internal pulleys. Present boat has similar boom with similar problem ha!
bignick
Well-Known Member
Just in case you don’t know what these are, they are a lazy tong riveter.Or one of these
bignick
Well-Known Member
Or cheese head.
DangerousPirate
Well-Known Member
Great change haha. You happy with the new z spar otherwise?
vyv_cox
Well-Known Member
No, I think cheese had is far taller. I could remember that one but had a senior moment with pan head.Or cheese head.
VicS
Well-Known Member
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vyv_cox
Well-Known Member
Mine were installed before Pozidrive were invented! Ordinary flat screwdriver.Pan head Pozidrive perhaps, but not Phillips
............ Torx would be better though.
Boathook
Well-Known Member
Not the best of pictures, but the end of my boom showing Allen head machine screws, etc. A tiny bit untidy but it got over a lot of problems. Under the stainless washers are nylon ones and the threads are coated in Tef-Gel to try and reduce corrosion.
DangerousPirate
Well-Known Member
I like it, looks steampunk
Shaddickp
Well-Known Member
Have you tried feeding an electric cable feeder through the boom. I had to replace my outhaul for similar reasons and it even had a block inside the boom in order to provide a 3 to 1 purchase at the mast end for pulling the outhaul. It is of course fiddly but with perseverance it should go through and you wont need to dismantle anything. Just a thought.