How coman is this -sinking boat

Its a good job shaft drive owners arnt as touchy as outdrive owners.........
we can take a bit of ribbing without feeling the need to retaliate :)

The boat didnt sink , did it, the compartmented small bilge didnt even fill up !

Anyway do you mean to replace the shafts with something like this ;)

P4270215.jpg

(photo stolen , thanks Dave)
 
the compartmented small bilge didnt even fill up !

What leads you to believe that it was a compartmented small bilge Pete?

The repair guy had a job squeezing in to it !
it had a dedicated top hatch to it .


when they jumped on the boat didnt list either way indicating the boat wasnt full of water and ready to sink at that stage.

If you know that boat design Rob, Im happy to be corrected .
crazy shaft seal design, the old style of shaft seal with modern rope is perfect, hardly requires touching between lift out.
 
The repair guy had a job squeezing in to it !
it had a dedicated top hatch to it .


when they jumped on the boat didnt list either way indicating the boat wasnt full of water and ready to sink at that stage.

If you know that boat design Rob, Im happy to be corrected .
crazy shaft seal design, the old style of shaft seal with modern rope is perfect, hardly requires touching between lift out.

Ooooh err, does that mean I should replace my sealing rope every year???

I thought it lasted for ever. I was deeply disappointed that I have used up all the adjustment on my seal & I am planning to replace the ropey bit after over 5 years.
 
The repair guy had a job squeezing in to it !
it had a dedicated top hatch to it . (maybe save lifting the complete cockpit sole to access seal?)


when they jumped on the boat didnt list either way indicating the boat wasnt full of water and ready to sink at that stage. (bige pumps were working and doing their job as could be seen in video)

If you know that boat design Rob, Im happy to be corrected . (nope but I do like that style of boat!)
crazy shaft seal design, the old style of shaft seal with modern rope is perfect, hardly requires touching between lift out.

Looked to me that the water was running down toward the keel area in one shot, thats reason I asked and not to be pedantic...:)
 
Most bilges will have strengthening ribs across them but are not really "compartmented" as they have limber holes to allow any water in the hull to drain to the stern where the pumps will deal with it. It's standard safety precaution, otherwise you would need a separate pump (or at least an intake) in every compartment.

My bilges hold a great deal of water before it get anywhere near the engine or carpets. I have spent over 45 mins pumping her out if she has been left a long time & I haven't pumped a bit of extra grease into the shaft seal, but altho it's a few hundred gallons, it leaves no damage once it is pumped out.
 
Ooooh err, does that mean I should replace my sealing rope every year???

I thought it lasted for ever. I was deeply disappointed that I have used up all the adjustment on my seal & I am planning to replace the ropey bit after over 5 years.

Not sure how much you use your prop searush, with old rope I found that 1000 nm @ 1280 shaft rpm the grease would melt out and the gland needed say 1/2 turn on each nut.

There is a new rope out ( I'll search for it in a mo) that suggests it doesnt need adjustment and so far I have found that to look accurate :)

I still check it as soon as the engines are cool but I haven't adjusted the stern glands this season at all, just a single drip every 60-90 seconds.


re compartmented bilges

My rudders have separate compartments and separate auto bilges .

my shafts also have bulkheads and separate auto bilge pumps.

holding tank / aircon is third separate compartment .



I THINK seatramp has very high engines under the two deck boxes.
There will be a bulk head between the cabin and the shaft compartment .
 
There is a new rope out ( I'll search for it in a mo) that suggests it doesnt need adjustment and so far I have found that to look accurate :)

I would be interested in that.... I have to do mine this winter. I usually use the graphite impregnated stuff, but the glands on my new boat are a right pain to get at so would like a longer term solution. I have found some PTFE (white) packing, is that the new stuff??? It feels quite hard. (Oh-er missus!)
 
Of course outdrives does not eliminate the risk.

Any raw water hose or bellow leak will let water in - albeit in drive shaft bellow case it will fill up the flywheel housing before getting into the bilge
 
Of course outdrives does not eliminate the risk.

Any raw water hose or bellow leak will let water in - albeit in drive shaft bellow case it will fill up the flywheel housing before getting into the bilge

With my Volvo 290DP if the drive shaft bellows leaks there are a further two seals that would need to be compromised before water gets into the boat.

FlywheelCover.jpg

Happy to be corrected as I have only ever used standard 'gland packing' [rope] - Not sure any shaft drive gland arrangement allows for three levels of independent sealing?
 
The bilge pump seemed to be coping adequately. It wasn't even running continuously. Having said that, a leaking shaft seal is a scary thing. Happened to me on my current boat when at sea and the water ingress was worse than that. Somewhat surprised to see that the leaking seal here seems to be a Tides seal which has a good reputation but it looks like it was poorly fitted
 
Its a good job shaft drive owners arnt as touchy as outdrive owners.........
we can take a bit of ribbing without feeling the need to retaliate :)

The boat didnt sink , did it, the compartmented small bilge didnt even fill up !

Anyway do you mean to replace the shafts with something like this ;)

P4270215.jpg

(photo stolen , thanks Dave)
Considering all of the talk regarding how carp outdrives are on here this last few weeks, I'd be interested to know if this particular boat sunk? And if not why not?
 
Boats do sink due problems with stern gland problems from time to time but luckily rarely.

It appears the stern gland was not tightened up and all was loose.

In the video the owner was being naïve and the fitter a bit economical with information.

I would not rely on bilge pumps keeping my boat afloat I would have it lifted pronto and have the guy who fitted them attend the boat , fit them correctly at his charge and send him the hoist bill.

All it would take overnight would be debris in the bilge pump, a flat battery or the bilge pump giving up and the boat would sink.
 
What preventive measures should one do to minimise ?
Do you think your insurance cover you for this?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MUxqKQSQ5ZM&feature=youtube_gdata_player

I,am basically a newbie to MoBos ( came over from rag-+ stick for usual family resons ) .
Thanks for looking at the vid -U tube s littered with shaft seal issues - I posted this cos of the two " dorks"
And there reaction quite funny really - you have to laugh .

Any how thus far nobody answered the two Q ,s above .


The pic posted shows some sort of anode issue or more like lack of maintenance -fair enough .
But most outdrive owners , well at least me follow the manufactures schedules ,and semmingly have zero or min issue easly covered by £ or € saved at the fuel pontoon .
I have all the invoices to support an insurance claim re 2 y bellows change should they try to" cock off "
A caim , and sleep peacefully at night:D
Where do you stand with failed shaft seal ?
 
Those drives wouldn't have dissolved overnight by galvanic corrosion and I'd guess the boat was unused for a considerable time? Otherwise the water around the drives would have been boiling away like a battery! I can't understand anyone leaving an expensive item like a boat for months at a time without any checks and looking at what's left, I doubt a shaft boat would have fared much better - presumably the shafts would also dissolve? Drives can also be seen/checked much easier as they're not under the hull.
 
Top