Home Made Volvo Penta 2003 Instrument Panel

[Tintin]

Pt2 - DIY Volvo Penta 2003 Instrument Panel

Following a whole tale of woe and frustration (see http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?406071-DIY-volvo-penta-instrument-panel), I decided not to spend the £200+ to get a replacement module, and with the help of circuit diagrams and some emails from the thread above, I set out to make my own, despite having not made any circuits since I was at school (a while ago).

All the components came from Maplins. No veroboard was in stock so I used plain board and pins.

I was unsure of the component wattages required so I hope I have erred on the side of caution.

The resistors are wire wound. I could not get a zenner diode of the right voltage (3.3v) at anything execpt low wattage, so I clustered 4 together in parallel.

I beefed up D1 as it is the main power into the circuit.

I took the original VP circuit diagram provided by CEPD, and added / modified it. My VP 2003 does not have glow plugs so there is one light redundant. I have added a circuit (the Aux circuit) to use that bulb for a switched (to negative) output from a cheap chinese ebay programmable temperature sensor which will get mounted on the exhaust.

My circuit diagram is below, along with the plan for the build, and a front and back photo of the finished board.

It tests out OK at home with a 12v bench supply.

It will get fitted to the boat tomorrow.

I am assuming I will not be able to recycle the 4 x bulb cluster as they are an integrl part of the broken module and it is all potted in, so I have instead gone with 4 x 4w BA9 bulbs and holders: I reckon the holders will fit somehow behind the coloured lens for the warning lamps. I will post some pics when this part is sorted.

So if you have a dodgy VP Control Panel, this is how to make your own and save several hundreds of pounds !! Enjoy.


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[wooslehunter]

This is not a simple undertaking if you're not that practiced at electronics, even if you're copying something so well done to get it working.

You may find you have a problem with connecting 4x zeners together. The voltage tolerance on zeners is quite poor which means that if you take 4 zeners, they will not have exactly the same voltage drop. So, the one with the lowest voltage will tend to take all of the current & therefore over-heat. It's actually quite complex though & one other effect is that the zener voltage will change as the device heats up. A 3.3V device is likely to drop as temperature increases. So, it makes things worse. 5v devices are neutral(ish) & >5V will increase with temp.

Ignoring the really technical stuff, test the board with the zeners conducting & check for excessive heating. If it's OK, then great. But, do check it.

Once everything is fine, I'd thoroughly recommend coating the board with something to protect it. The real technical stuff is a conformal coating which you can get from RS. Having said that, it may be better to pot the board. You can get potting compound form RS too, but polyurethane resin will be fine. The reason for potting it that the board you used is SRBP - synthetic resin bonded paper. It has very little mechanical strength & will crack easily under vibration. The way you built it is probably better than Veroboard. The copper strips are notorious for falling off or cracking.

 

[nigelmercier]

You may find you have a problem with connecting 4x zeners together. ...

Definitely. Try with one and see if the current is in specification.

Incidentally, is the original schematic an official copy? If not, what was the source?

 

[Plevier]

Forgive me if I'm wrong but I think what you have recreated here is the very early type alarm module which was a bare circuit board and is shown on page 26 of the VP2002 workshop manual www.bluemoment.com/manuals/volvo_penta_2002_worksh.pdf
This has some oddities that are described in the operating manual e.g. (quote) "if the engine temperature and battery charging light lights up, but the alarm does not sound, there is a charging fault" and "if the engine temperature or oil pressure lamps light up and the alarm sounds, either the engine temperature is too high or the oil pressure is too low."
As far as I remember, basically the oil light can come on by itself, but the water temp light can only come on at the same time as another light, and dimmer. I recreated the circuit in Yenka and it works exactly as the original, I can send you the file if you have Yenka (it's free) http://www.yenka.com/technology/
The potted module is a later replacement for the bare board and much better in that it gives unambiguous outputs. However I never managed to get a circuit for it.
Incidentally the bulbs do come out (from either type), I know I still have some salvaged ones somewhere if i could find them!! Push and turn as far as I recall.
The same module is used for 12V (bulb part no 19923) or 24V, only the bulbs are different.
Incidentally I see the nice people at VP have now made even the later potted module (part no 873737) out of production and unavailable.

 

[nigelmercier]

The potted module is a later replacement for the bare board and much better in that it gives unambiguous outputs. However I never managed to get a circuit for it...

I've got the schematic for the MD22, which has a potted board, and the diagram looks similar.

It's no doubt the random diodes that are causing the problems, they seem to be there so the alternator still works if a bulb blows! Crazy situation IMO, which is why I have an external regulator. A better alternative would be a high wattage resistor to perform this task.

The only diodes that I can see are needed are the ones that link to the horn pin 6 and face left, these form an OR gate to sound the horn.

 

[cpedw]

Incidentally, is the original schematic an official copy? If not, what was the source?

I was the source, having downloaded it from here some time between 09/09 and 06/10. Another forumite had created it. I also have a "still" of what I think is Plevier's simulation. They were both in the same thread I think. I have tried searching for the original thread without success but I did find these...

I referred to it in this thread http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?288640-Volvo-instrument-panel-help-needed but without giving the source.

VicS shows the sketch diagram from the manual in this thread http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?198974-Does-anyone-know-how-a-VP-panel-works

Derek

 

[Plevier]

I think the complications arise from the fact that in normal running both the oil switch and the water switch are open; the fault condition for either of them is closed; but when not running the oil switch is closed but the water switch is open. The early unit does not solve this logical inconsistency too well.
I still think these diagrams are the early type. I opened up a failed potted one and there seemed to be a lot more in it, including an SMD chip of some sort. Unfortunately it was fully potted inside the plastic box in something elastomeric and very tough and non removable and I destroyed it in trying. The bare board one was very simple. On my 2002 it failed because the tracks had dissolved, I simply wired over them. My failed potted one was on a later engine, a year 2004 model 2020D. I think the changeover was in mid/late 80s (my 2002 was year 1984). I don't know when the MD22 came out. Could early ones have had the old type board and the manual was never changed?
The potted unit is backward compatible, no wiring changes needed.

PS - with the later module (the 873737), the warning light flashes and the horn sounds for all alarms. You press the test button to acknowledge, the horn stops but the light keeps flashing. I don't see how any of the ccts we've come up with on here can do that!

 

[nigelmercier]

I've just checked, the horn is a SC 235 BF made by Sonitron: http://view.ceros.com/sonitron/catalogue/p/12

It works up to 35V, so I see no reason for the zener diode, except to reduce the volume. Probably H&S reasons

I've also just looked at my spare panel, the module is a VP 873 737, and it has two + terminals, two - terminals, one marked 61 (which is covered). It also has 12 other wires: White/Black, Green/Red, Red/Blue, White/Blue, White/Brown, Black, White which go to 9-way connector. White, Yellow, Green, Blue, Red which go to 5-way connector.

 

[Tintin]

Damn, life got in the way of playing with boats yesterday, but at least I got the VP panel home so can splice the new board in in relative comfort.

I am also going to get the dremmel on the old module to try to re-use the lamp part.

Thanks for all the dvice and suggestion - some thoughtsss....

This is not a simple undertaking if you're not that practiced at electronics, even if you're copying something so well done to get it working.

You may find you have a problem with connecting 4x zeners together. The voltage tolerance on zeners is quite poor which means that if you take 4 zeners, they will not have exactly the same voltage drop. So, the one with the lowest voltage will tend to take all of the current & therefore over-heat. It's actually quite complex though & one other effect is that the zener voltage will change as the device heats up. A 3.3V device is likely to drop as temperature increases. So, it makes things worse. 5v devices are neutral(ish) & >5V will increase with temp.

Ignoring the really technical stuff, test the board with the zeners conducting & check for excessive heating. If it's OK, then great. But, do check it.

OK, thanks for the heads up - on the bench soak test they didn't heat up as far as I could tell with my finger but I will keep an eye on it and will keep some on board as spares just in case. Nigels suggestion of one zenner is the best but at the time of building only what was on the shelves at Maplin was available to me. Am gonna see how it goes before ordering one on ebay or finding a specialist shop (deepest Cornwall).

Once everything is fine, I'd thoroughly recommend coating the board with something to protect it. The real technical stuff is a conformal coating which you can get from RS. Having said that, it may be better to pot the board. You can get potting compound form RS too, but polyurethane resin will be fine. The reason for potting it that the board you used is SRBP - synthetic resin bonded paper. It has very little mechanical strength & will crack easily under vibration. The way you built it is probably better than Veroboard. The copper strips are notorious for falling off or cracking.

Thanks for confirming PU resin - I was wonderring about that - hot or slow mix?. I will leave that until the winter work schedule so it gives any problems time to surface and so I can fix them.

Forgive me if I'm wrong but I think what you have recreated here is the very early type alarm module which was a bare circuit board and is shown on page 26 of the VP2002 workshop manual www.bluemoment.com/manuals/volvo_penta_2002_worksh.pdf
This has some oddities that are described in the operating manual e.g. (quote) "if the engine temperature and battery charging light lights up, but the alarm does not sound, there is a charging fault" and "if the engine temperature or oil pressure lamps light up and the alarm sounds, either the engine temperature is too high or the oil pressure is too low."

As far as I remember, basically the oil light can come on by itself, but the water temp light can only come on at the same time as another light, and dimmer. I recreated the circuit in Yenka and it works exactly as the original, I can send you the file if you have Yenka (it's free) http://www.yenka.com/technology/
The potted module is a later replacement for the bare board and much better in that it gives unambiguous outputs. However I never managed to get a circuit for it.
Incidentally the bulbs do come out (from either type), I know I still have some salvaged ones somewhere if i could find them!! Push and turn as far as I recall.
The same module is used for 12V (bulb part no 19923) or 24V, only the bulbs are different.
Incidentally I see the nice people at VP have now made even the later potted module (part no 873737) out of production and unavailable.

And you last line is the key to this - the only replacemeny I found was in USA at over $300 polus a long delivery time plus the possibility of customs charges.

Without any circuit diagram for the new module anywhere as far as I could find, the only option as it seemed to me was to use the one from these forums - had I not done so I would have a VP2003 with no water or oil warning lights, or an expensive retrofit of some other manufacturueer sensors and circuits, assuming one with such little knowlegde as me could find and understand the info / data sheets.

Not everyone finds it a simple thing to "re-tap the hole" - some advice I got a while back that left me in utter confusion - a friend explained it didn't involve a hammer, and what it actually involved was far too complicated for me (how the F**k can I tell the difference between a whitoworth and a standard metric thread?????).

Volvo no longer making this part means a lot of boat owners with VP2003 and VP 2002 engines are going to run into trouble as they have problems with this module, which seems to be a weak point on a lot of boats.

Either the owners will have to get another engine and control panel, not bother with one, build their own (like me), or find another engine control panel that works (I tried but no info anywhere as far as my googling went) as a replacement.

While this circuit apparently has some issues (and the dim warning light is not one I have experienced yet on the bench), it means I still have a) a charge light, b) warning of a water temp problem, c) warning of an oil pressure issue, d) a buzzer that alerts me, and e) it fits into the existing wiring and housing space. I have also gained an additional warning light (and buzzer) for exhaust temp. It means I can use my boat engine.

PS - with the later module (the 873737), the warning light flashes and the horn sounds for all alarms. You press the test button to acknowledge, the horn stops but the light keeps flashing. I don't see how any of the ccts we've come up with on here can do that!

No! they probably don't! (gosh I hate ! marks - I can imagine the person stamping their feet ) - but I would rather have a home built panel that mean I can safely use my boat than no panel and effectively a dead engine and a boat out of use.

Now if someone wot knows about such stuff can come up with a circuit to fulfil the needs of the VP2002/3 so that owners like me with failed modules (and no means to buy another 'cos they ain't available!) can build their own then a lot of people I think will be grateful - perhaps you sir? You seem to have enough knowledge to be able to cast a critical eye over such things.

Seriously - I lay the challenge down to those with the knowledge to come up with a suitable diy circuit (with component values) so numpty boat owners like me can make our own replacements using the existing wiring loom and control panel fascia.

Anyone up for it?

 

[AngusMcDoon]

PS - with the later module (the 873737), the warning light flashes and the horn sounds for all alarms. You press the test button to acknowledge, the horn stops but the light keeps flashing. I don't see how any of the ccts we've come up with on here can do that!

Could be done with a cheap low power micro-controller and a few lines of code.

 

[Tintin]

Could be done with a cheap low power micro-controller and a few lines of code.

I am sure it could - but I wouldn't know where to start - would you have the time, for the enduring gratitude of all VP 2002/3 owners with a similar problem to me, to do a circuit diagram showing how that could be achieved, using the circuit diag in my OP as the starting point? And how does one go about adding "a few lines of code" to whatever a low-power micro-controller is?

 

[nigelmercier]

I've just checked, the horn is a SC 235 BF made by Sonitron: http://view.ceros.com/sonitron/catalogue/p/12
It works up to 35V, so I see no reason for the zener diode, except to reduce the volume. Probably H&S reasons ...

I've just had conformation:

“SC 235 B”
On page 30 you will find the product codifications, list of all available product types and options
F means Fast-on terminals 4.76mm

See pages 22 and 30 of this catalogue: http://www.sonitron.be/useruploads/files/sonitron_catalogue_2014.pdf

 

[Plevier]

Understand all your points Comrade Red and yes what you are doing is a lot better than nothing.
It is poor support if VP is dropping this module which was used on panels up to at least 2006. I'm afraid it's beyond me to design a substitute.
One or two sites say that part no 22354203 replaces it e.g. http://www.yachtboatparts.com/elect...o-penta-873737-new-number-22354203-3740-p.asp
There are probably an awful lot around on dealers shelves.

 

[AngusMcDoon]

I am sure it could - but I wouldn't know where to start - would you have the time, for the enduring gratitude of all VP 2002/3 owners with a similar problem to me, to do a circuit diagram showing how that could be achieved, using the circuit diag in my OP as the starting point? And how does one go about adding "a few lines of code" to whatever a low-power micro-controller is?

It needs to be done by someone who has access to the engine for investigation and testing.

 

[Tintin]

Understand all your points Comrade Red and yes what you are doing is a lot better than nothing.
It is poor support if VP is dropping this module which was used on panels up to at least 2006. I'm afraid it's beyond me to design a substitute.
One or two sites say that part no 22354203 replaces it e.g. http://www.yachtboatparts.com/elect...o-penta-873737-new-number-22354203-3740-p.asp
There are probably an awful lot around on dealers shelves.

Sadly no - that site orders stuff in and my enquiry to them was not confidence inspiring - "the could get it if it was still available" but couldn't give me any timescale beyond 6-8 weeks.

 

[Tintin]

I've just had conformation:

“SC 235 B”
On page 30 you will find the product codifications, list of all available product types and options
F means Fast-on terminals 4.76mm

See pages 22 and 30 of this catalogue: http://www.sonitron.be/useruploads/files/sonitron_catalogue_2014.pdf

I have juts used a bog standard piezo buzzer with a wide voltage range - works fine, and at 2.99 a bargain.

 

[Plevier]

It needs to be done by someone who has access to the engine for investigation and testing.

Is that really so? What it has to connect to is very simple - a switch that shorts to ground when oil pressure is too low, a switch that shorts to ground when water temp is too high, and a link to the live side of the field coil.
The fourth light is purely an indicator attached to the glow switch on engines with heater plugs.
It's purely supervisory. You can operate the engine with it missing.
The alternator warning light does not provide the excitation feed, there is a bypass resistor for that linked to the start switch, at least on the models I have worked on.

It would be applicable to many engines, not just VP.

 

[nigelmercier]

Could be done with a cheap low power micro-controller and a few lines of code.

That was my plan as well, but then thought about it and decided that a few LEDs and resistors would do fine. The existing diode OR circuit is OK, but the rest can be greatly simplified: replace the bulbs with LED+resistor pairs, replace Charge bulb with 39Ω 5W wirewound resistor (to draw >250mA) (with LED+resistor across it). Wire horn direct to 12V.

 

[Tintin]

That was my plan as well, but then thought about it and decided that a few LEDs and resistors would do fine. The existing diode OR circuit is OK, but the rest can be greatly simplified: replace the bulbs with LED+resistor pairs, replace Charge bulb with 39Ω 5W wirewound resistor (to draw >250mA) (with LED+resistor across it). Wire horn direct to 12V.

Can you sketch it and post it here?

 

[Steve C Cronin]

We were alongside a classic wooden yacht in Mesolonghi a week or so ago. The cockpit was beautifully lined in light mahogany which contrasted well with the larch planking, part of which was visible. The engine instruments and switchgear were housed in a mirror polished stainless steel recessed panel which had a very well engineered flange all the way around. It made a very suitable and attractive setting for the rev counter etc which fitted the style of the yacht ideally. It was some minutes before I realised that it was an oven roasting or a chaffing dish!