Hempel Silic One prop kit??

srm

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I am well aware that the best way to keep a prop clean is to polish it then use it, and to keep on using it. Unfortunately, I have not been able to use my boat so the prop is growing barnacles.

Has anyone got first hand experience they are willing to share (as opposed to armchair expertise) of the Hemple Silic One prop kit?

Thanks.
 

johnalison

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It didn't stick to my prop in spite of as much care as I could give when applying the primer. I've had more luck with Trilux, though that was only 75% successful. It may depend on the actual metal used.
 
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Hi there SRM,

I'm fairly new to this and bought an otherwise lovely boat with a rotten prop. So, in Spring 2022, wishing to look after my fabulously expensive new bronze whisk, I invested in a SilicOne kit.

After application (see below) I then popped the boat in the water in the middle of what was, according to reports on here, a vintage year for hull gardens.

The boat was in the River Blackwater for about 6 months and when I pulled it out again:
  • Anything not anti-fouled (i.e. my bootstripe) had huge amounts of weed.
  • My freshly anti-fouled hull had developed a nice 2mm+ coating of organic slime.
  • The prop came out looking like I'd just painted it.
So on the basis of not much boating experience, but having used SilicOne for all of it, the stuff worked brilliantly.

It is not for the fainthearted however. Etching primer, followed by an intermediate tie coat topped off with a thick silicone layer - and the thinners are absolutely evil. I thought my big garage with the doors and windows open would be well ventilated enough, but they weren't. Only use this stuff outside, preferably wearing a gas mask.
 
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jmnapier

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I’ve used silic one and I’ve used Propspeed. I preferred the PS. More successful in that it hasn’t come off and it was actually easier to apply
 
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superheat6k

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Silic One on hull - great.

On propellor - chocolate fireguard; ashtray on motorbike; naval officer; hat stand on boat; trapdoor on submarine - all useless !
 
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Tintin

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I tried it for 2 seasons. It's disconcerting to see it wash off shortly after launch. Waste of money IMHO and less useful than a chocolate fireguard.
 
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Hot Property

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Silic one, great for fast planing hulls permanently on a mooring. Around 1.5 knot gain. Lasted 3 seasons and would have done 4 if boat not sold. Saved hauling out costs as well.

As Trev sed, on props useless unless they don't turn fast...
 
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Neeves

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PropSpeed - which was introduced before Silic One - but similar technology is VERY common on stern gear for MoBos in Sydney. If it did not work - it would be well known and they would not use it. Prop Speed is expensive.

PropSpeed demands following instructions, precisely. If you don't follow instruction - it falls off. Because of this issue PropSpeed could only be applied by professionals - but in some sales areas this restriction has been removed.

Before investing in Silic One - check the PropSpeed and Prop One websites (all silicone coatings for running gear).

I'm a certificated applicator - but don't practice :)

To me its as good, or bad, as Velox - care needed with application. Both can work. Silicones are soft and easily damaged. If your vessel sits idle in a high fouling area - nothing works. There is no magic bullet, yet (electro plating?? - :) ).


I've wondered about a robust bag encasing the prop with an American bleach addition. Like the mice, the bell and the cat - who would design an easily installed bag.....

Jonathan
 
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superheat6k

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PropSpeed - which was introduced before Silic One - but similar technology is VERY common on stern gear for MoBos in Sydney. If it did not work - it would be well known and they would not use it. Prop Speed is expensive.

PropSpeed demands following instructions, precisely. If you don't follow instruction - it falls off. Because of this issue PropSpeed could only be applied by professionals - but in some sales areas this restriction has been removed.

Before investing in Silic One - check the PropSpeed and Prop One websites (all silicone coatings for running gear).

I'm a certificated applicator - but don't practice :)

To me its as good, or bad, as Velox - care needed with application. Both can work. Silicones are soft and easily damaged. If your vessel sits idle in a high fouling area - nothing works. There is no magic bullet, yet (electro plating?? - :) ).


I've wondered about a robust bag encasing the prop with an American bleach addition. Like the mice, the bell and the cat - who would design an easily installed bag.....

Jonathan
I have always thought a heavy plastic bag tied to the prop, and closed tightly to prevent water exchange, would effectively cause anything within to perish, and hence cease fouling. But how to apply these on a shafted boat ? Might work for outdrives though.
 

Neeves

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I have always thought a heavy plastic bag tied to the prop, and closed tightly to prevent water exchange, would effectively cause anything within to perish, and hence cease fouling. But how to apply these on a shafted boat ? Might work for outdrives though.

I too toyed with the idea of how to apply. A friend and I thought it through, though did not solve the application, rather than seal we thought of having a garden hose down which you poured the occasional batch of bleach (powder or liquid). Here, small, keel boats (Etchels, Dragons) are stored in bags, a very few, and they use bleach.

Jonathan
 

srm

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Once my prop is clean I was thinking of a suitable plastic bag for each blade, liberally smeared with grease inside. Snorkel down and smooth the bag over each blade so that the grease holds it in position. To be environmentally friendly a light line tied to the end of each bag would allow removal before running the engine.
Just a mad idea, but at the moment the prop probably looks like a barnacle reef. No problem with the hull, just thin slime over Coppercoat.
 
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