Help Wanted

Karnic

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Hi Guys

Please i need your help/Views re some issues im concerned about .
As you can see from the 1st 2 photos outboard seem a bit low installed. Agree? From what i was searching in internet i think i will raise height to 1 or 2 holes up. What are your views? Dealer confirmed that it is correctly installed but to my surprise came across to 2 other boats exactly the same as mine and OB is adjusted higher. As i have to pull OB out i will be renting an Engine hoist in order to work securely. Is it ok? Also re the 3 rd photo( Inside bilge area where OB bolts are) i was thinking of putting a plate stainless or aluminium or else i attach some marine plywood in order for bolts to tension with the plate or wood so that bolts do not make direct contact with transom. Views? Is it better to order new sets of Mounting bolts or i can use the same ones? Ob is fairly new 130 hours. When installing will it be ok to put Lifeseal life caulk in bolts or do you recommend something else ( better) or 3M 4200? Will scrape the old silicone that attaches OB with the outside of the transom do you suggest to add something between OB and transom or by putting the recommended silicone/caulk would be enough? Re 4 th picture i think i will install a stainless plate between the bolts is it necessary?
As you are aware before doing the job i appreciate your kind honest help as im not that technically inclined but i prefer doing a good job or else dont do nothing and leave everything as it is. Your honest suggestions are more than welcome Thanks a lot Guys. Bless.
 
I dont have any experience of outboards myself so I can only report back what the fast fisher forums are finding. They have the anti cavitation plate actually slightly higher that the bottom of the transom and reporting back a significant increase in performance and fuel economy. It may well be worth your while to trawl around the forums and get more data on where they are finding the optimum setting. Their consensus are that the dealers tend to mount lower than optimum.
 
The anti cav plate should be no lower than the lowest part of a deep vee hull. You can run them higher to reduce drag as you do if racing. This can reduce stability though and cause cavitation before planing.
If transom is ply core important to stop ingress of water
Seal both sides of transom
Simple stainless plate inside would spread load effectively
Use a polymer sealant, silicone won’t work if substrate moist
Make sure it’s a sealant not an adhesive, look at Sikaflex site
 
The anti cav plate should be no lower than the lowest part of a deep vee hull. You can run them higher to reduce drag as you do if racing. This can reduce stability though and cause cavitation before planing.
If transom is ply core important to stop ingress of water
Seal both sides of transom
Simple stainless plate inside would spread load effectively
Use a polymer sealant, silicone won’t work if substrate moist
Make sure it’s a sealant not an adhesive, look at Sikaflex site

Thanks for your reply. As seen in pictures and posted some videos as well, do you recommend i go a hole or 2 up? What are your views re my set up?
 
Trial and error
Higher mount= less drag= more speed= less fuel
I take it you won’t have to drill the transom
I’d try 2 up first
When racing you want as little in the water as poss
Trade off with stability and cavitation
Too high and you will struggle getting on the plane and cav in turns
Based on previous experience and mistakes made
 
Trial and error
Higher mount= less drag= more speed= less fuel
I take it you won’t have to drill the transom
I’d try 2 up first
When racing you want as little in the water as poss
Trade off with stability and cavitation
Too high and you will struggle getting on the plane and cav in turns
Based on previous experience and mistakes made

Thanks a lot R 400. Im not into racing only for fishing and recreational purposes but would like OB to perform to its best capabilities. I am confused if to take 1 hole or 2 up due to resealing issues etc. So if i go 2 holes up i assume plate would be level with lower end of transom as u can see in pics. I am assuming if plate levels with lower end of transom stability and cavitation issue would not take place. correct or?
 
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Hi Guys

Please i need your help/Views re some issues im concerned about .
As you can see from the 1st 2 photos outboard seem a bit low installed. Agree? From what i was searching in internet i think i will raise height to 1 or 2 holes up. What are your views? Dealer confirmed that it is correctly installed but to my surprise came across to 2 other boats exactly the same as mine and OB is adjusted higher. As i have to pull OB out i will be renting an Engine hoist in order to work securely. Is it ok? Also re the 3 rd photo( Inside bilge area where OB bolts are) i was thinking of putting a plate stainless or aluminium or else i attach some marine plywood in order for bolts to tension with the plate or wood so that bolts do not make direct contact with transom. Views? Is it better to order new sets of Mounting bolts or i can use the same ones? Ob is fairly new 130 hours. When installing will it be ok to put Lifeseal life caulk in bolts or do you recommend something else ( better) or 3M 4200? Will scrape the old silicone that attaches OB with the outside of the transom do you suggest to add something between OB and transom or by putting the recommended silicone/caulk would be enough? Re 4 th picture i think i will install a stainless plate between the bolts is it necessary?
As you are aware before doing the job i appreciate your kind honest help as im not that technically inclined but i prefer doing a good job or else dont do nothing and leave everything as it is. Your honest suggestions are more than welcome Thanks a lot Guys. Bless.

As said by others:
1. It is too low. Raise it by 2 holes. imho
2. A good engine hoist is fine if you set it up well. normally to lift an outboard you need an eye bolt to screw into top of engine flywheel so you're kinda lifting the crankshaft. Buy or borrow
3. Stainless plate inside transom would be nice. Don't use plywood due to rotting risk. 4mm stainless would be nice or 8mm ali
4. In this case you can use same bolts. Remember to tighten them well, to reduce fatigue
5. Use polyurethane - 3m 4200, or Sika 291 - for bolt holes and generally
6. If you label your post based on what interests the reader ("how to raise my 150hp outboard") rather than from your POV ("help wanted") you'll get more replies

That's all!
 
Last edited:
As said by others:
1. It is too low. Raise it by 2 holes. imho
2. A good engine hoist is fine if you set it up well. normally to lift an outboard you need an eye bolt to screw into top of engine flywheel so you're kinda lifting the crankshaft. Buy or borrow
3. Stainless plate inside transom would be nice. Don't use plywood due to rotting risk. 4mm stainless would be nice or 8mm ali
4. In this case you can use same bolts. Remember to tighten them well, to reduce fatigue
5. Use polyurethane - 3m 4200, or Sika 291 - for bolt holes and generally
6. If you label your post based on what interests the reader ("how to raise my 150hp outboard") rather than from your POV ("help wanted") you'll get more replies

That's all!

Thanks JFM:encouragement:
 
I usually start with the AV plate 1" above the keel line but in the past if wanting maximum performance we would lift an engine until we got excessive ventilation in turns then drop it down 1 hole & that wasnt far away from perfect.
To adjust height assuming boat is on a trailer easiest way is sit skeg on a block of wood and lift bow of boat with jockey wheel so weight of engine is just sat on block . Bottom holes are often slots so you can just loosen those off & remove the upper bolts raise bow of boat which will lower stern once at correct height refit upper bolts & retighten loweres
 
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