Help mercruiser 4.2L D Tronic wont rev past 2500rpm under load

Wetspot,

Look at page 90 if you have the same manual.

As I have worked in U.S. diesel industry pretty much all my life the term high idle is common to all U.S. diesel engine manufacturers, and many European.

A diesel engine governor provides power up to the setting for a specific engines power rating. However it does not shut the fuel off at RATED rpm, the governor is set to allow fuelling at a reduced level until the fuel is cut right back. From the point at which the engine reaches RATED speed/power to the point at which the engine ceases to rev is the governor DROOP. The governor DROOP varies from application to application I.E a gen set has 5% or almost isocronus. An automove engine can have 15% or more in order for the driver to put a gear shift in. Imagine going for an overtake and suddenly the revs hit a brick wall! Mechanical marine diesels have around 10%, Electronic engines less.

High idle as I explained earlier is exactly that, the highest rpm which the governor allows the engine to run at. Engine is not producing RATED power at this speed, however it is the #1 test in trouble shooting. Unless engine can make the high idle spec it will never perform under load.

Most diesel engines run happlily once warm at high idle, VM are a little more cautious and state engine should only be run at this condition for no more than three minutes.

I can understand the reluctance of any dealer to get into your problem as it is a bit of a poison pill. Installation has never been signed off as being in accordance with manufacturers guidelines so where are you asking them to start? Review your whole installation, rubbish it, give you a big bill and and snagging list and say they will come back when you have completed the reccomendations before even attempting to troubleshoot the motor. Been there and scars yet to heal.

IF your motor passes test #1 you need to go back to your installation manual.

One of the clues could be the previously failed turbo. The KKK turbo used by VM is made of junk metal. You likely have the curled up cast Mercruiser exhaust riser also junk. The manual says you NEED at least 11 inches from the top of the riser to the water line. Even this spec is bonkers, trailer launched boats with this riser flood turbo for a pastime. Two things happen if you are 11 inches or less, sea water comes back into the junk metal housing and eats it away. Point #2 the engine gets stangled by the exhaust a 11 inches or less, having tested engine for a job which was going legal we got over 5 inches of Hg back pressure once the riser was less than 11 inches above the water. Hot seawater plus very hot exhaust gas expands very quickly causing restriction. Unless your exhaust backpressure is less than 3 inches of Hg your engine is strangled.

I can understand yor frustration, however ripping into the base motor will not resolve your problem.
 
Lateboater
I think we dont have the same manual, both my manuals have sections 1 to 9, then in each section- a b c d then each sub section has page numbers
 
Agree CAT always call max revs high idle. sounds like its overpropped to me as it hits 2500, the boost pressure isnt there to get the boat over the hump, or maybe its the wrong outdrive leg gear ratio.
 
Surely the D-Tronic engine is controlled by the ecm?, took a look on the internet regarding "high idle", not a lot of info in the UK except for commercial engines (constant speed generators/pumps and so on), although quite a bit about high idle in the states, but seems to point more towards non ecu engines.
Is the engine manual you have got for the 4.2L 200/220hp engine?? with the mechanical diesel injector pump?? which is not governed by the ECU??
 
[ QUOTE ]
Agree CAT always call max revs high idle. sounds like its overpropped to me as it hits 2500, the boost pressure isnt there to get the boat over the hump, or maybe its the wrong outdrive leg gear ratio.

[/ QUOTE ]
it has quite a low geards drive, Bravo 3 diesel x 2:1 with the smallest props available, surely it cant be over propped?
I have seen a bayliner 3058 with a 250hp (less powered than mine) which is overall a much bigger and hevier boat than mine with a 1.81:1 drive , and he gets 25knots??
 
They are border line , based on mine they should be 19 inch and that doesnt allow for Bayliner proportionately wider beam.

My boat 8.5 ton plus say 1.5 junk
2.5 ratio on 26 inch pitch props
twin installation.

My shaft revs to 1600 rpm twin shafts

ratio 2-1 revs to 2000 rpm single installation pushing 4.5 ton with say 1.5 junk

Try 18inch props, 19 are probably ideal ????

But there was no change from 22 to 20 , which is very odd and also destroys my lack of air theory.
 
wetspot, you seem about to get some useful answers by following Lateboater's diagnostic tree. The parts list as changed so far seem to indicate a complete scattergun approach with no real idea what the underlying fault is. It may be that Lateboater is the first to follow a proper diagnostic tree with this engine.

Either way if you want his input probably less frustrating to follow his guidance exactly and ask questions afterwards, probably less frustrating for you both.

I don't know Lateboater but I do know when in diagnostic doo-doo as you seem to be, a disciplined approach is exactly what is needed. Be prepared to answer what may seem pointless questions, be prepared to cover what you seem to know is old ground. Working from square one, missing no steps is the hallmark of a specialist, not a timewaster.
 
Volvopaul,

Eureka! I am delighted people out there are getting it. Yep if the engine passes test #1 THEN YOU START LOOKING AT EVERYTHING ELSE, WORK THE NUMBERS. Called troubleshooting.

Not the other way around!

We had an old addage, you have engine installers and service techs. Never mix the two. People that install them can never fix them and the people who fix motors ain't keen to install them.
Wetspot,

Yes you have a dumb mechanical rotary pump (Bosch VP44) with a smart electronic governor hence more tightly controlled goveror droop than the mechanical versions of this motor.

Sorry guys but you have to put up with a grumpy old man!
 
[ QUOTE ]
Wetspot,

Just contact me and I will send you the correct installation manual, no problem.

[/ QUOTE ]
Hi Lateboater, I have sent you a pm , yes please send me the manual
 
what should the fuel flow be for this engine?
at idle and under load, the manual states 80ltr per min, now that is impossible, when i tested it it was only about 1ltr every 2 mins??

how should I test for high idle??
 
the manual is completley different as I suspected, thank you very much, I am looking through it now
thank you everyone who has contributed so far, please keep your ideas coming
 
just looked at the instalation manual recieved from Lateboater and I am concearned about the battery setup , bear in mind the previous engine was a big block and it had 2 cranking batteries on an isolator switch 1 & 2 & all, when the diesel was fitted, these batteries wouldn't start the diesel, so they were replaced by two diesel wagon batteries, but even then, you had to start the engine in the "all" position, as to not waste the old batteries, they were installed as entertainment batteries, just for use with TV and Music on a seperate system, this was done so the cranking batteries were allways fully charged, however, to charge the old batteries a inteligent splitcharge relay was fitted (which caused the battery light at the helm to illuminate) this was the altered to continuous charge, also the cranking batteries have both earths (-) conected to the engine as sometimes starting was difficult when cold, could any of this have anything to do with the rev problem?
 
Wetspot,

I am the wrong person to ask as I only do shaft drive and still do my prop caculations by Crouches method on a scrap of paper.

Please keep to working at the troubleshooting. IF assuming you can make high idle why have you not asked somebody to run your transmission numbers. Post your displacement, hull form and waterline length and I am certain somebody will chime in.
 
[ QUOTE ]
just looked at the instalation manual recieved from Lateboater and I am concearned about the battery setup , bear in mind the previous engine was a big block and it had 2 cranking batteries on an isolator switch 1 & 2 & all, when the diesel was fitted, these batteries wouldn't start the diesel, so they were replaced by two diesel wagon batteries, but even then, you had to start the engine in the "all" position, as to not waste the old batteries, they were installed as entertainment batteries, just for use with TV and Music on a seperate system, this was done so the cranking batteries were allways fully charged, however, to charge the old batteries a inteligent splitcharge relay was fitted (which caused the battery light at the helm to illuminate) this was the altered to continuous charge, also the cranking batteries have both earths (-) conected to the engine as sometimes starting was difficult when cold, could any of this have anything to do with the rev problem?

[/ QUOTE ]

I very much doubt the charging and battery installation will effect the engine perfomance at all once it is running, unless its a complete bodge and only 6V or something is getting to the ECU, but it probably wouldnt start at all then.

I think you basicaly just need to get a good competant marine engineer down to your boat and look it over completely whatever the cost, have you tried Col here on the forum?
I think your looking for something complicated and its probably just a simple problem, the boat won't climb over the hump. Its a 25ft heavy planing boat with big heavy diesel in the back, it will be sitting down at the stern so will need the leg trimmed fully in and tabs fully down, the bottom will need to be clean and the turbo cutting in correctly otherwise about 7/8knts is all it will do, this is a common problem.
 
Hi all
I have just had a call from the gentlman from up north, he has managed to test my ECU on his twin 300hp setup, and guess whatttttt, it wouldn't rev past 2500 rpm !!!! so after over 2 years of trying to get the engine sorted, it turns out to be a dodgy ECU which was brand new from BARRUS (ordered may 2006 but not recieved until Jan 2007), although I have not run the 250hp ecu on my engine yet, I feel confident that it will work, and I will be testing it on Tues, so fingers crossed !!!
 
looks like I found the problem!!

not only was I supplied a dodgy ECM by EP Barrus UK (UK Mercruiser importer at the time) but also a dodgy MAP/AIT sensor as well.
It all makes sense now, these parts were only delivered the week Barrus Ceased with the diesels as Cummins took over, and it looks like I was sent the faulty parts they had left on the shelf!

It turns out that the ECM was corrupt and although it stored the faults and worked as it should, it did not display them, and as it did not display them you did not know they were there, also this became apparent when the ECM was tried on a diferent engine, giving the same result 2500rpm !, the reason for this is the ECM was still carrying the fault code from my engine but was not visible, and thus could not be removed, as soon as I fitted the 250hp ECM , Bang ! the fault came up, Faulty MAP Code , most people can handle one failed component, but not two, especialy when they were both supplied brand new by the Dealer!!
But I am not out of the woods yet, still need a 300hp ECM and a new MAP sensor,
I will keep you all informed
 
You have been incredibly unlucky and I hope you can now enjoy the season with your boat /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Was the engine supplied brand new with the wrong ecm ?
Any idea what caused the first one to go wrong ?
 
Top