Liz_I
Well-Known Member
in 6mm dyneema?? Has anyone done it with this small a diameter or would it be better to stitch & whip? - help please.
Hard eye splice
- Thread starter Liz_I
- Start date
planteater
Well-Known Member
I tried several times but couldn't get the hang of it. There just isn't enough give in the 6mm sheath. Stitch and whip worked fine for me.
William_H
Well-Known Member
Stitch and whip
I have used similar alternatives like use stainless steel locking wire both pushed through the 2 pieces of rope and wrapped around tightly. The problem is getting the sharp ends to turn inwards so they don't cut your hands. This can be covered with whipping. Another thing I have tried is heat shrink plastic tubing pushed over the whipping or wire and heat shrunk on. I don't know how long it will last in UV but it looks good.
However on a small boat you may have dyneema /spectra for halyard. I use spectra for my jib hgalyard but have stuck with a bowline knot at the jib head. This has the advantage that every time I fit a jib (every voyage) I end up with the knot ina different position. This then moves the pressure/wear points on the halyard at the top and turning pulleys so increasing life of the halyard. likewise the jib sheets. (I use my little boat a lot and flog it hard.
And yes I have also failed to get a splice in braided rope. Perhaps it is impossible unless rope is new.
olewill
I have used similar alternatives like use stainless steel locking wire both pushed through the 2 pieces of rope and wrapped around tightly. The problem is getting the sharp ends to turn inwards so they don't cut your hands. This can be covered with whipping. Another thing I have tried is heat shrink plastic tubing pushed over the whipping or wire and heat shrunk on. I don't know how long it will last in UV but it looks good.
However on a small boat you may have dyneema /spectra for halyard. I use spectra for my jib hgalyard but have stuck with a bowline knot at the jib head. This has the advantage that every time I fit a jib (every voyage) I end up with the knot ina different position. This then moves the pressure/wear points on the halyard at the top and turning pulleys so increasing life of the halyard. likewise the jib sheets. (I use my little boat a lot and flog it hard.
And yes I have also failed to get a splice in braided rope. Perhaps it is impossible unless rope is new.
olewill
Hoolie
Well-Known Member
I haven't used 6mm but I have eye spliced 8mm without undue difficulty. I always find the first step of extracting the core through the sheath is the most difficult - after that it's straightforward.
I used eye splices as it's said that a knot eg bowline will seriously reduce the strength of Dyneema rope, perhaps as much as 70%.
I used eye splices as it's said that a knot eg bowline will seriously reduce the strength of Dyneema rope, perhaps as much as 70%.
sarabande
Well-Known Member
youtube of small dia dyneema being spliced.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HiOzEELTWp4
Boatropes of this forum sells the kit and also gives good advice.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HiOzEELTWp4
Boatropes of this forum sells the kit and also gives good advice.
srah1953
Well-Known Member
sarabande
Well-Known Member
knuterikt
Well-Known Member
Would make it easier to answer if you gave us more details..
Rope construction: W/Wo cover
Rope make/type Spliceabilty can be different for different ropes from same producer.
Short answer:
Braided without cover - easy, use locked brummel
Braided with braided cover
- If cover has loose braid, can be done
- If cover is braided tightly, consider a "naked eye" (locked brummel)
Liz_I
Well-Known Member
Just want to say thanks so much for all your replies. Have had probs with internet connection and can't believe how far down this was!! Power to PBO really!
Anyway the stitch & whip was used. The outer sheath was very tightly woven.
Thanks again guys, much appreciated.
Anyway the stitch & whip was used. The outer sheath was very tightly woven.
Thanks again guys, much appreciated.
wklein
Well-Known Member
completely agree never worth the hassle to splice 6mm, strip for 18" and do brummel splice. neat and prob stronger than cover splice
knuterikt
Well-Known Member
Never do a core to cover splice on a covered dyneema rope. On a covered dyneema rope it is the core that give strength to the rope. The cover is only there to increase diameter, protect the core and make the rope better on the hands.
An eyesplice with cover should always be core to core on dyneema.
wklein
Well-Known Member
I think i have been mis-understood i was talking about two core to core splices: one stripped and one with cover over splice if that makes sense. Not sure why i have been quoted
knuterikt
Well-Known Member
wklein said:
Yor last sentence alarmed me "prob stronger than cover splice".
Both types of core/core (covered and naked) splices (if done the right way) are equaly strong. So was thinking you ment a classic core/cover splice.
wklein
Well-Known Member
No i was talking about the problem of dyneema splices pulling out at low loads due to whippings being under strength on high strength lines. This being the reason for the tuck of brummel splice.
