Hangkai outboard- help to create an owners manual

G

gwebster

New Member
Joined
17 Aug 2010
Messages
20
Visit site
Here is my draft of a practical manual for the 2 stroke 2 hp hangkai. Please amend and republish from your own experiences.

Hangkai 2 stroke outboard manual
This manual is supplied with no warranty as to accuracy and is simply my best guess as to what to do based on past experience of other outboards and making what I can of the awful manual which came with the Hangkai. If you damage your motor using this manual, I accept no repsponsibilty.
there are some questions below, please amend the manual in that or any other respect and reissue so it can be as complete as possible. Does anyone have a source of parts?
1. Summary
Advantages
Light at 9 kilos empty
Prop doesn't turn when at low revs- it engages as you rev up
Very cheap
Disadvantages
Low power
Poor quality steel used. You may need to paint your starter cover on the top, remove and grease all bolts when new etc to avoid corrosion.
High use of oil- 25:1 is costly and make embarrassing smoke.
2. Getting started
Fill from little fuel can which they supply. If you tip all the fuel to the larger side, you can use the small side to add the measured amount of oil per the gauge, then tip to mix the two.
There is no fuel tap. Pump fuel through using plastic bubble on the starboard side. When it is hard, pump 12 times more to push it through.
Move the choke lever to 'OFF'. In this position the choke is closed for starting.
Pull to start. It always takes me about 10 pulls or more, any suggestions?
Run the engine with choke lever 'ON' when started.
Let it cool by running in idle before stopping it with the red button on the top.
If stored outside always cover, and avoid using in salt spray or rain.
3. Service
Once at least remove all bolts accessible, grease and replace. Or they may seize. Paint the steel cover on the starter, it will corrode otherwise.
Annually before winter
Grease clamps , wind in and out.
Remove prop and grease shaft.
Remove anode, clean or replace, grease bolt. ( But where do we buy another anode?)
Remove two bolts near prop to access gear box oil and top up or replace with Hypoid 90 ( this is a guess). Ensure no air bubbles by pumping in the lower end until it comes out the top end, with motor lying at a slight incline.
Run it in a bucket of fresh water until all fuel is used up. You may need to have removed some fuel before you start, to keep the time down.
Remove dome on starboard side. Fine sponge filter, take out, wash and dry.
The Chinese manual refers to a 'colander' but i can't find that.
Remove two alan key bolts on starboard side and 3 bolts and nuts. Pull away starboard side cover. The fuel tank is attached, which is why it is better to run it out before this stage.
A drop of oil on throttle cable.
Remove spark plug. I had to use a 19 mill flat spanner, and to get that in I had to loosen the one alan key bolt which holds the plastic inner cover.
Put engine oil in the cylinder, hold a rag over it while pulling starter cord to spread oil.
Check gap in spark plug, should be .7. This seems very big, so I am using 25 thousandths which is about .5.Clean it and re-insert.
Check gap in the 'magno electricity machine' if you can find it (.05) or 25 thousandths but please tell me where it is!
A drop of oil on the moving parts such as pivot etc.
Grease nipple 3 strokes. and revolve engine to spread grease.
Keep it inside in the winter.
Do not keep any mixed fuel. In fact I mix as I top up.
In Spring
Take out spark plug, pull starter with cloth in the hole or paper to catch oil, clean and refit, or replace it.
Add fresh fuel.
 
when you take spark plug out what kind of oil do you put in and how much please help

when you take spark plug out what kind of oil do you put in and how much please help
 
Interesting thread. I bought one very recently (partly curious to see just how ridiculously easy it is to buy a 2 stroke if you want one, and partly because I actually wanted the lightest outboard I could find as a spare) - mine starts really easily - max two pulls. Why do you think it cools at idle? I think actually the cooling only works when the clutch is engaged and the impeller is pulling water up into the cooling passages. True, it does have a fan and cooling fins - but I wouldn't rely too much on that.

I spoke to a garden machinery service business, and they deal with Chinese small two strokes all the time (strimmers, hedge cutters, and chain saws etc.). Their analysis is that these engines aren't bad, but anything "soft" like the fuel pipe and fuel bulb lasts max two years as our ethanol doctored petrol destroys the cheap materials. Certainly I have a hedge trimmer where the pipe just literally disintegrated - not great having a fuel dripping on a very hot engine! However, good news is that all these bits and easily replaceable.

I was wondering generally whether buying the more expensive petrol all the main brands seem to sell might be better for small engines as it might contain less cr*p?
 
stop being smart and answer question

on instructions on ebay it mentions Engine oil drain bolt just wanted to know where it is, if there is one 2 stroke does,nt answer my question.not very helpfull this is my first engine,massive respect to the guy who wrote this manual because there are none on the internet ive spent hours looking.Booklet you get with is useless long live gwebster.
 
Maybe it was one of these on ebay...

img_machinery_A22_01.jpg


It's 2-stroke and has engine oil. I expect you'd need quite a big bucket to drain the oil into.
 
It *could* be self mixing like a more modern 2-stroke motor bike, is it?
Very much doubt it however. Regular 2-stroke engines don't have an oil tank and obviously no drain plug. That's why you add oil to the main tank. I suppose you can drain the carb or maybe the tank and maybe they called that the "oil drain plug".
 
It is a very simple engine - you should have had a mixing fuel bottle with it - it takes a 25:1 fuel - two stroke oil mix. It is slightly unconventional though as it has a fan assembly to provide some air cooling, as the impellor only picks up water when the clutch is engaged. There is no oil in the engine, other than in the fuel. It should have gearbox oil in the gearbox which should be changed after the first 10 hours.

Mine cost 189 pounds including delivery. Very noisy, being part air cooled (and I suspect adapted from a strimmer motor), and very basic. The leg is a straight copy of the Yamaha 2b one.

Mine starts second pull and runs surprisingly well. I just bought it as a very light (9 kilos) standby.
 
iainmurphy2 said:
stop being smart and answer question
Click to expand...

Stop being rude and go stick your head in a bucket.

See? I can give orders too.





2nd_apprentice has explained why "it's a two-stroke" answers your question for anyone who knows the first thing about engines or has heard of Google.

Pete
 
Last edited:
And anyone who knows outboards would probably realize the drain for the lower unit oil could be referred to as "oil Drain" bolt, no?
To answer the question asked; Oil drain bolt is probably the gear box known as a "Lower unit" As OP suggested it probably should be changed with W90 gear oil.
Given the nature of many complaints i intend to drain and flush mine upon arrival(bought from amazon 08/28/2015) then again after five hours. also there have been reports of dirty carbs with both packing and metal shards, I'll do same with carb and remove spark plug and blow it out before first start.
To make you feel better, most complaints seem to be from non-mechanically inclined folks who just yank the rope and use throttle as on off.
 
keyspc said:
And anyone who knows outboards would probably realize the drain for the lower unit oil could be referred to as "oil Drain" bolt, no?
To answer the question asked; Oil drain bolt is probably the gear box known as a "Lower unit" As OP suggested it probably should be changed with W90 gear oil.
Given the nature of many complaints i intend to drain and flush mine upon arrival(bought from amazon 08/28/2015) then again after five hours. also there have been reports of dirty carbs with both packing and metal shards, I'll do same with carb and remove spark plug and blow it out before first start.
To make you feel better, most complaints seem to be from non-mechanically inclined folks who just yank the rope and use throttle as on off.
Click to expand...

That's optimistic - the ones I have seen don't have any oil drain bolt on the gear box, meaning that you have to remove the main casing front plate to change the oil, and hence risk compromising the gasket seal. Good luck!
 
I see this post is 6 years old. I hope you're still looking here.

I purchased a Hangkai 3.5 for my Sea Eagle 9 inflatable dinghy. It came disassembled in 2 boxes, the shaft in one and motor in the other. That was no problem, but the throttle cable was not connected. It was a battle disassembling the engine, routing the cable and attaching it to the carb, then getting it all together again without loosing bolts, etc.

I searched for help on-line; that's how I found your post. You've created a pretty good maintenance list, which I've copied.

There's two things I'd like to know: Have you ever found a decent manual (the one that came with it might as well be in Swahili, and I needed illustrations!) and can you answer occasional questions?

Thanks

gwebster said:
Here is my draft of a practical manual for the 2 stroke 2 hp hangkai. Please amend and republish from your own experiences.

Hangkai 2 stroke outboard manual
This manual is supplied with no warranty as to accuracy and is simply my best guess as to what to do based on past experience of other outboards and making what I can of the awful manual which came with the Hangkai. If you damage your motor using this manual, I accept no repsponsibilty.
there are some questions below, please amend the manual in that or any other respect and reissue so it can be as complete as possible. Does anyone have a source of parts?
1. Summary
Advantages
Light at 9 kilos empty
Prop doesn't turn when at low revs- it engages as you rev up
Very cheap
Disadvantages
Low power
Poor quality steel used. You may need to paint your starter cover on the top, remove and grease all bolts when new etc to avoid corrosion.
High use of oil- 25:1 is costly and make embarrassing smoke.
2. Getting started
Fill from little fuel can which they supply. If you tip all the fuel to the larger side, you can use the small side to add the measured amount of oil per the gauge, then tip to mix the two.
There is no fuel tap. Pump fuel through using plastic bubble on the starboard side. When it is hard, pump 12 times more to push it through.
Move the choke lever to 'OFF'. In this position the choke is closed for starting.
Pull to start. It always takes me about 10 pulls or more, any suggestions?
Run the engine with choke lever 'ON' when started.
Let it cool by running in idle before stopping it with the red button on the top.
If stored outside always cover, and avoid using in salt spray or rain.
3. Service
Once at least remove all bolts accessible, grease and replace. Or they may seize. Paint the steel cover on the starter, it will corrode otherwise.
Annually before winter
Grease clamps , wind in and out.
Remove prop and grease shaft.
Remove anode, clean or replace, grease bolt. ( But where do we buy another anode?)
Remove two bolts near prop to access gear box oil and top up or replace with Hypoid 90 ( this is a guess). Ensure no air bubbles by pumping in the lower end until it comes out the top end, with motor lying at a slight incline.
Run it in a bucket of fresh water until all fuel is used up. You may need to have removed some fuel before you start, to keep the time down.
Remove dome on starboard side. Fine sponge filter, take out, wash and dry.
The Chinese manual refers to a 'colander' but i can't find that.
Remove two alan key bolts on starboard side and 3 bolts and nuts. Pull away starboard side cover. The fuel tank is attached, which is why it is better to run it out before this stage.
A drop of oil on throttle cable.
Remove spark plug. I had to use a 19 mill flat spanner, and to get that in I had to loosen the one alan key bolt which holds the plastic inner cover.
Put engine oil in the cylinder, hold a rag over it while pulling starter cord to spread oil.
Check gap in spark plug, should be .7. This seems very big, so I am using 25 thousandths which is about .5.Clean it and re-insert.
Check gap in the 'magno electricity machine' if you can find it (.05) or 25 thousandths but please tell me where it is!
A drop of oil on the moving parts such as pivot etc.
Grease nipple 3 strokes. and revolve engine to spread grease.
Keep it inside in the winter.
Do not keep any mixed fuel. In fact I mix as I top up.
In Spring
Take out spark plug, pull starter with cloth in the hole or paper to catch oil, clean and refit, or replace it.
Add fresh fuel.
Click to expand...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Other threads that may be of interest

Y
Quick Aries 1000 anchor windless noisy
Replies
0
Views
102
yotter
Y
F
Non starting outboard
Replies
4
Views
231
spannerman
S

Share this page

Top