Had enough - selling boat

[ QUOTE ]
Why argue against a cheap and practical remedy?

[/ QUOTE ]

major has answered more fully but -
1. didn't realise it was an arguement - is this the 5 or 10 post argument room?
2. because neither is a remedy. Docking arms help all boats in a cross tide and bunked/keel roller ones in just about any situation - in this case there is no centering issue and the boat would actually slide side to side to find the centre as there is little friction in play from those rollers. Likewise once clearance from the beam is established there is nothing to remedy - the roller becomes an additional clearance item, as cost and a hazard.

/forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
 
I've had a similar problem, albeit with a small dory, trying to fit it to an old trailer I bought cheap.
Looking at the picture you posted, the left hand side rollers. Above and to the right of the rusty nut on the U bolt, there are two bolts holding the array of rollers onto the bracket. Is there not another hole drilled above the first bolt, can't see a second hold because of the perspective.

If there are two other holes above move the whole array up to the top holes and it should give you another inch of clearance and solve your problem
 
Well, suit yourself, but your assertion that [ QUOTE ]
the Easy Loader is not designed to work that way

[/ QUOTE ]does raise questions about whether the design is working at all and that another approach may be better. The extra roller is not to support the keel or take weight from the roller arrays. It is merely to avoid contact. It takes up only half an inch, probably less than the keelguard cost you.
But it's your choice and you're fed up with it.

However: What chance of selling it with a damaged keelguard and obviously unsuitable trailer? And how much will you lose?
Take the bull be the horns. For a few quid you can try an extra roller. It may solve the dilema.

On the docking arms, it was you that said [ QUOTE ]
if the boat is slightly off line on the approach because of the wind it could miss this roller and run up the side of it.

[/ QUOTE ] but now you tell me it self-centres.

Cool off for a while and enjoy the boat for a bit. I'm sure you'll get second wind and set about a modification.
 
Dude, dont give up.

Your be a failure.

This is such a small problem, if you do give up, dont come back to the boating world, because we dont like big girls.

What you goner do at weekends? Go shopping? Go on go.
Go and get excited over the next line of M&S clothes.
 
You seem to be talking yourself out of all the obvious solutions.

> them and the the boat is not designed to take a spot weight on its keel.

But that's the point, it wouldn't be taking a huge spot weight on the keel (which with the transom is the strongest part of the boat anyway, and takes impacts from waves at 25kts, so can certainly take being gently rolled over a roller for a couple of mins with the boat still partially buoyant).

Look at your final photo with both the boat and the trailer. The "V" at the front of your boat is nice and deep, which is fab for punching thru waves. Now look at that rear axle on the trailer. There's no way that the deep forefoot of your boat is going to clear the very flat V of the axle unless the angle of the trailer is incredibly steep, or the rollers are higher.

So, your choices are:
1.) LakeSailor on some wideish axle mounted rollers (no, the keel won't break, and it isn't going to self centre if the keel is sliding around on a galvanised steel axle either).
2.) Raise the existing rollers (no, it won't mess up the CofG unless you go bananas).
3.) Shave off the keel to create a flat bottomed hydroplane.

dv.
 
Woody, can you edit your location info please. It's pushing the left hand side bar out wide everytime you post

A space or two is all that's required
 
[ QUOTE ]

On the docking arms, it was you that said

Quote:
if the boat is slightly off line on the approach because of the wind it could miss this roller and run up the side of it.

but now you tell me it self-centres.

[/ QUOTE ]

It does, but in the case of my boat it would self centre AFTER hitting the side of your keel roller. I can drive it in at an angle and it self centres as the bow hits the front rollers the the rear rollers feed along the hull mouldings. By the time the the bow has hit the front rollers it has already either hit the axles or scraped along the side of a keel roller if I had fitted it. Honest, it is quite simple really. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif But I do appreciate your input.

Same answer to dvinell. Why put another obstacle in the way. But your suggestion that the rear roller array is raised could be valid, except when I mentioned this to the dealer last year they told me that the set up was correct. Back then I trusted the professionals - and that is the problem - I bought a boat and trailer that was meant to work at the beginning, not after considerable alteration at my expense or a conversion into some roller festooned docking armed enable leviathon.

Manxman, they are three settings and the rear array are on the lowest.

Woody001, you are a prat. Either say something sensible or shut your stupid gob, you child.
 
Okay, how about two rollers in a shallow "V" either side of and quite close to the bottom of the "V" on that rear axle. That would give the keel something to self-centre on at a very early stage of loading, and would also spread the keel load a little.

I still think that raising those rear rollers a little would be the most straightforward approach.

dv.
 
Chris, don't give up. My earlier suggestion of a few forumites turning up with tool boxes wasn't a joke.

There's lots of experience on the forums that dealers aren't always aware of.

I'm pretty sure that a couple of trailer boat types with boat on waters edge to see what's actually happening, then effecting a 'repair' would take less than an hour or maybe a bit more if bits need to be fabricated
 
I agree with alot of what has been said, but personally think Alistarr has got it right, I have always sunk the trailer in deep enough for the boat to float on to the trailer becuase the thought of pulling 1.5 tons of boat on to the trailer seems wrong to me.

As Lakesailor said you could have a very enjoyable afternoon at Ferry nab on Winderemere watching people get it wrong, hence I always made sure we got it right, whenever possible.

Put the trailer in deep, float the boat onto it and connect the winch, to pull it up the last bit, even use the Boat engine to push it on the last bit. Pull the trailer wheels to the waters edge and check it is level and how you want it, if not reverse back and re-float and try again.

This is also how they launch the boats at Aquatics, Bayliner main importer. I am sure they would look at it for you, at there normal cost!!!!

But I also take your point that the suppling dealer should sort or explain how not to damage the boat on launch or recovery.

Dont give up, you will regret it!!!!
 
I would suggest the following
1. Don't give up
2. Explain to your dealer (in the nicest terms of course) that he's a prat - and that the trailer IS set up wrongly.
3. Move the rear rollers inwards by 4-6" which, with the deep v of your keel will lift the boat clear of the axle without the need for any spacers
4. Repeat last years keelguard fitting (at the dealer's expense if you can get away with it)
5. Get back on the water asap - you won't regret it! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
Jim44, my second ever recovery was with the water up to the rims of the car. Result, boat hit the axles and caused the damage seen in my previous posts. I could physically put the trailer in any further and it was on, as Kawasaki will confirm, a perfectly normal slip that people launch and recover boats everyday without mishap.

I have tride it deep and I have tried it shallow - as recommended - both results in the keel hitting the axles. Am of the opinion that it is the height of the rear array that is wrong.

Brendan, yes you have the answer. But, if during the trials it gets damaged again, I will have to repair it again.

As I said before, I am going to tell the dealers to sort the problem out and then repair the damage, probably at my expence, including taking off the Keel Guard. I then need them to prove to me that the boat can be launched and recovered without damage. If it gets damaged after that, then I will sell the boat.
 
There won't be any damage if a bunch of trailer experienced types get together. Choose a nice deep ramp, with no wind or current. See how it goes on, inch by inch. Then decide on what needs to be done to fix, before any damage is done.

Problem at moment is you are going alone with little or no experience of how awkward boats can be put on trailers. Many here will have been there or done it before.
 
There could be lots of reasons to sell up and quit but a trailer problem is not heard of. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

If your dealer says it's fine then just ask him to show you how to launch and recover. If you're sure you've done your part right he will also have a problem and should come up with the idea to rectify.

The photos help but it would appear that the rollers are mounted on 'U' brackets and can easily be moved towards the centre by loosening and sliding as suggested.

I too hated the idea of pulling our fishing boat over a roller in too shallower water. Again as mentioned we would always try and float her on as far as poss. before winching, this will also give more clearance to the deep V section of the bow.

Don't go out on a low either always quit on a high and this aint high!!! /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
funnily enough steep and deep isn't the best for this trailer set up - think of the extrme and you can see how any boat could nudge into the axle with the rollers 3ft below!

anyhow Chris's course of action should sort it all out (if not deliver a bass!)
 
[ QUOTE ]
Jim44, my second ever recovery was with the water up to the rims of the car. Result, boat hit the axles and caused the damage seen in my previous posts. I could physically put the trailer in any further and it was on, as Kawasaki will confirm, a perfectly normal slip that people launch and recover boats everyday without mishap.

[/ QUOTE ]

In that case there is no doubt in my mind that the trailer is not set up correctly regardless of what the dealer says.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Still think an onsite survey by trailer boaters will sort quite quickly. Inch by inch will get it, where photos won't

[/ QUOTE ]

I agree. So when are you southerners going to come oop north and then cross into a foreign country and then fart about with my trailer and then lie down in a field all night under a tarp after I have bought you all one pint each?
 
I'm willing to go with Brendans idea of a group of forumites coming over to help , but the problem seems to be finding a way of lifting the boat over the axle . So why not adapt lakesailors post . Use a roller off a conveyor belt , bolted both sides , with supports along its length . or a roller ball system like they use on air cargo dispersal units .
But count me in for the help side if needed
Can't have MC off the water now can we , come on , please don't give up MC . If help is needed , let me know , any other volunteers ?
 
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