Guidance Please on Generator choice.........

Here are my thoughts having been through a similiar process.

Firstly, even for short term cruising, you are likely to spend a fair amount of time at anchor or on pontoons - after all surely cruising is about staying at different places, not just sailing! So, if you like hot showers and hot water your biggest demand for energy is the electric heater. (I know you can run the engine but that seems a terrible waste just to heat water never mind running it at low revs. just to make hot water at anchor). So that is where the Genset comes into its own with not much to replace it and why 240V makes sense. However big your battery bank you will do well to heat the water off an inverter.

So I can run my Genset for an hour and have a full tank of hot water.

Gensets are pretty useless for charging batteries. Why run a Genset with very little load for many hours which is required to charge a battery bank? The answer I decided is definitely a big solar array. OK, I know it is a big committment but I opted for 700W which gives me enough power to run the fridge, freezer, all the lights and keep the bank pretty much fully charged without resorting to any other power source - and its silent.

I dont care what people say about Gensets not being noisy - either they have huge yachts or tons of lead lined insulation. I genuinely can barely tell if the Genset is running sitting in the cockpit but in the saloon it is more than audible.

Then there is the aircon. Again whatever you might think it is nosiy (much noiser than the Genset) (unless I guess you have a water cooled system which is seriously costly and involved to install). In reality you will run the aircon for a couple of hours to pull the cabin temperature down for a good nights sleep. I can run the units in the cabins off the battery so I dont need the Generator for that but the main unit in the saloon pulls the batteries down far too quickly (and that is using a reverse cycle water cooled system). So if you are happy with just a cool cabin you dont need the Genset.

So, the best thing I ever did was the solar array. It means the Genset only gets used for hot water and occasional use of Aircon in saloon, which is perfect, but `i wouldnt do without the Genset becasue I like the hot water. When the Genset goes on, so does almost all the 240V systems, water heater, air con (if needed), battery charger and 6Kw proves enough and an hour (or two) does the job. If it stops working for any reason the solar array will deal with the fridge, freezer and everything else bar the hot water and take it in its stride without any noise or anything to go wrong.

To complete the analysis if you opt for a water maker then again realistically you need the 240V supply, although there are 12 / 24V systems they arent that efficient, and the 240V systems are reasonably power hungry, and a compressor for diving (if that is your thing) will not escape the need for a 240V supply. Again a short run will be sufficient for these systems to do their job.

You will probably need more than 600AH and 800AH seems to work well of battery capacity, and without doubt a soft start on the 240V supply will enable a smaller Genset to be used and yet cope with a far greater potential load.

I thought hard about replacing my FP hearing all the reliability issues, and concerns about noise. In fact touch wood it has proved really reliable. Also be very careful about the often heard claims of the lower rpm units being less nosiy - they produce a different noise (deeper), and you will not find a manufacturer that will tell you in a like for like installation you will notice any significant difference. I can tell you on the same yacht, same installation, I find the lower rpm unit more intrusive. I very nearly repalced the FP for just these reasons and am very glad I spent the £6 to £8K on something else!

I fully appreciate that we can all be a great deal more conservative, and use far less power and everything can be scaled back accordingly, but if you dont wish to I can say that combination gives you everything you realsitically need without much worry about what switch you do or dont turn on, and leaves you totally self sufficent.
 
Last edited:
I have an FP 4.2kw, fresh water cooled diesel genny, it haqs had, complete new generaqtor (wiring shorted), two new cylinders and pistons, one fresh water pump, complete, five drive belts and two sets of pulleys, one water circulating pump, three fuel shut off solenoids, five new relays and its done 1400 hours! Hows that for reliability!
I still have it, relegated to standby duties! Fitted a westerbeke 6kw unit, done 2000 hours with only servicing and impellors! Never touch an FP again, when this one dies again, which it will, it will be float tested.
 
The best thing for hot water is to use a heat exchanger off the main engine and the generator. You want to get one of those water tank things with three different coils in it - one for the main engine, on for the generator and one for electric heating for when you are on shore power.

The generator will get you a decent sized hot water tank hot in 10 - 15 minutes just from the heat exchanger.

Running the generator to generate electricity to heat the water is a slow fuel inefficient way of doing things.
 
Hit there,

Just been through the same exercise - for tropical climes.

Came to the conclusion that need keel cooling for fridge/freezer and its going to be DC.

The determinant for the generator (provided you are happy to load-manage your electrics) is the aircon startup current.

We chose chilled water aircon from webasto as it has the redundancy of a twin compressonwith programmable startup delay as well as good maintainability. The startup requirement for the compressor we chose was 5200W for 0.2 secs. We are looking at a 4kw load overall for aircon alone at full whack.

We chose an integrated system from Mastervolt with a generator rated at 6.5kW. Coupled with a Combi inverter charger, we will be able to buffer any excess electrical loads we need when the aircon is running from the house batteries and then revert to charging them automatically.

An added benefit of this system is that although we sized it to have 20% excess capacity to allow for degradation over time, we should usually be able to run the generator at 75% which should stop it coking up etc.

I looked at al kinds of units and systems but decided on the Mastervolt/webasto because it gave me 2 systems for the same weight as putting an Onan generator on its own.

Another benefit came from the ability to intellegently load share between showe power/generator and DC inverted AC supplies. I'll have 2 AC circuits one of which will always be on the 'clean' circuit whch will always come through the inverter. This will be used for frequency-sensitive equipment.

Hope this helps.

Agree on all points including the choice of components. However, as the 6.5KW Onan was already aboard and only has 330 hours, It will stay.

My only comment: DO IT RIGHT... my boat is so quiet that I've forgotten to shut down the Onan on occasion.

GL
 
John, I meant to say that if you don't want to tear the boat apart to fit AC a lot of people (including us) carry a domestic unit. If you go to (say) Trinidad you'll see many boats with this arrangement.

We put it on deck facing a hatch and you then need to "build" a cover that separates warm from cold air. It very easy and we use box carboard covered in plastic bin liner material.

We started with a 5,000 BTU unit but it was too small and now have an 8,000 unit. With a bigger boat you may need more subject to how much of the boat you want to keep cool.

The only issue is put it over a hatch that is small enough that nobody can climb through it. If you need details of the cover design let me know.
Mike

Wasn't going to mention this for fear of a "Poh, Poh" (Greek) reaction, until I saw your post but we have just had our first season in Greece with one of these:-
img1.jpg

http://www.coolmycamper.com/

It uses less than 400watts at full output and since we only want to cool our sleeping cabin it cools comfortably on setting 2 out of 4 where the consumption is only 180 watts. We are only concerned with getting a good night's sleep and we come to Greece FOR the heat so sitting in an air conditioned saloon all day is of no interest.The inside unit is secured to a bulkhead below the forehatch and the outside, compressor unit is moved out onto the foredeck as and when cooling is required. When stowed for travel, it sits comfortably below the compressor on the bunk. Condensate water is collected in a drinking water bottle and supplies us with a good quantity of distilled water! When used in a camper van the outside unit is usually sited below the inside one and so there is an automatic pump to pump out the condensate but since we have them sited the other way around, this never switches on. It is extremely quite and in no harbour where we have moored this season has anyone complained about noise. It's difficult to hear it at all, anyway.

Sailing boats need to take the low energy approach in everything electrical and at anchor we can easily use it on our 1500/2000 watt inverter from 505Ah of house for a couple of hours before going to bed (it has a timer).

Other low demand devices on board are a twin tub washing machine at 85watts - no heater and an ice maker at 180 watts. We also have a large fan suspended in the main companionway which ensures a good airflow through the boat when the outside air isn't moving (35watts). All these are 240vAC and run on the inverter. We have 110watts of solars, one of Charles Sterling's alternator controllers and a 1Kw suitcase genny which has not been used at all this year.

You need to look at the problem from both the power requirement end as well as the supply. Anyone can stick in a 5Kw water cooled generator and fill their neighbours' boats with diesel fumes all night!
 
Last edited:
The best thing for hot water is to use a heat exchanger off the main engine and the generator. You want to get one of those water tank things with three different coils in it - one for the main engine, on for the generator and one for electric heating for when you are on shore power.

The generator will get you a decent sized hot water tank hot in 10 - 15 minutes just from the heat exchanger.

Running the generator to generate electricity to heat the water is a slow fuel inefficient way of doing things.

Hmmm. Unfortunately, this is the only thing that I have miscalculated - HOT water for showers...

We have set the boat up for everything to be 12v. The generator is a 12v unit, the air con is 12v and the water maker is 12v. With a 500AH battery bank (will be increased in due course) topped up with 600w of solar, and a 1600w Victron Inverter, we are pretty self sufficient. The only thing that I forgot was the water...

I am currently looking at rectifying this. So far I am considering

An Eberspacher miniwash running off 12v
A 6 litre gas powered water heater
An additional 12v coil in the calorifier to utilise the excess solar energy and/or

(now this is the one that would be easiest at the moment but I am sure that someone will tell me (a) I can't do it or (b) it is too dangerous)

Plugging the shore power into the dedicated inverter socket and turning on the calorifier...

Whilst I accept that this might not be the most efficient way of heating up water, is it feasible???
 
We have a "blue Seas" source selector which allows the 240 ring main to be fed by either shore, inverter or genny. This makes it easy to heat up water quickly by feeding the immersion heater from the inverter. This augments the engine coolant coil in the calorifier which on it's own takes a long time to heat up a tank full from cold and on low revs with no load.
 
We have a "blue Seas" source selector which allows the 240 ring main to be fed by either shore, inverter or genny. This makes it easy to heat up water quickly by feeding the immersion heater from the inverter. This augments the engine coolant coil in the calorifier which on it's own takes a long time to heat up a tank full from cold and on low revs with no load.

Takes 30 minutes when running the (only/main) engine for charging batteries. Less if motoring at a reasonable speed.
 
Isn't that what I said? What do you disagree with?

You said it takes a long time with the engine at low rpm. I don't know ifyou consider 30 minutes a long time or not. But anyway the point is that if you run the engine to xharge the battzries, you get the hot water for free via the engine cooling coil in the calorifier and 30 minutes is all it takes - I need loèger to charge the batteries anyway.

No idea if that is disagreeing or agreeing with what you said.
 
You said it takes a long time with the engine at low rpm. I don't know ifyou consider 30 minutes a long time or not. But anyway the point is that if you run the engine to xharge the battzries, you get the hot water for free via the engine cooling coil in the calorifier and 30 minutes is all it takes - I need loèger to charge the batteries anyway.

No idea if that is disagreeing or agreeing with what you said.

My VP MD22 never seems to heat up the calorifier much at low revs for much less than 20mins running - the thermostat is working fine! However, I always try to keep the off load running to a minimum for fears of glazing the cylinders, "Load" being supplied by the fan belt not being sufficient, of coures but where it cannot be avoided, augmenting the engine water heating with the immersion heater brings the time down drastically. Also avoids annoying the neighbours!
 
Last edited:
Top