gimbal bearing puller alpha one

If it's Machine Marts slide hammer set that's been referred to, yes, I have used them to remove a VP gimbal bearing. Using the 2 legged puller, the legs needed grinding down slightly to allow them to be tightened by the collar, but after that they worked fine.
 
I agree, great value; I just need to find lots of other uses for it !

What part of the gimbal bearing is the gimbal head ? Mine came out as one unit; the outer bit that's pressed into the transom shield and the bearing that gimbals inside it. I noticed they can be separated by rotating them and lining up the slots in the outer bit with the bearing assembly..
 
Ah, thanks for the clarification.

I'd always seen that referred to as the pivot housing ! I always remove it on mine after each season, so I can clean off the marine growth that's on transom shield and on the "hidden" side of the housing.
 
this is the kit;£16;.............http://www.amazon.co.uk/Rear-Axle-B...F8&qid=1369840468&sr=8-1&keywords=axle+puller
Fits through the bearing as it pivots and then you get the reverible extractor hammer that screws into it.
when putting the new bearing in the dot on the outer housing of the gimballed bearing has to be at top so you can see it all the time.
An alignment tool is also required for aligning bearing to engine coupler thats attached to the flywheel.

this may be the correct slide hammer;........http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-Sl..._Equipment&hash=item3a60543ed3#ht_1535wt_1199
 
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I like those bearing pullers; they seem better than the jaw types in the Machine Mark set, less point loading; I feel could maybe justify buying some. However, the Machine Mart ones worked, as I wasn't going to refit the bearing, I can't justify buying them.

What's the importance of the alignment dot you mention ? The only important thing I thought was to align the hole with the tube from the grease nipple. However, the bearing I fitted is a non greasable type, so no alignment with the transom shield required ( or so I thought).
 
dingdongs said:
if its not aligned properly then the shaft from your drive may be eccentricto the coupler.this will ruin the rubber cush drive and then its an engine out job to replace the coupler.this should be a yearly check.here's how to do it and look at the others on youtube.www.youtube.com/watch?v=w118LGsYgY4
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I understand the need for aligning the gimbal bearing with the engine/ coupler; I had to adjust mine last year ( the actual adjustment took about 15 minutes, but before that I had to take both the engine mountings off, in itself a time consuming challenge due to poor access to the corroded/ seized nuts and bolts, then clean off all the corrosion so the adustment nuts could be moved; that took a day !). It didn't need adjusting this year.

I was wondering about the alignment of the "dot" you mentioned.
 
GrahamHR said:
I like those bearing pullers; they seem better than the jaw types in the Machine Mark set, less point loading; I feel could maybe justify buying some. However, the Machine Mart ones worked, as I wasn't going to refit the bearing, I can't justify buying them.

What's the importance of the alignment dot you mention ? The only important thing I thought was to align the hole with the tube from the grease nipple. However, the bearing I fitted is a non greasable type, so no alignment with the transom shield required ( or so I thought).
Click to expand...

dingdongs said:
if you look at this link you will see a dot.this goes at 12 o'clock position facing aft.the cut outs on the other side of the gimbal will therefore face to the bow.this will put the greasing hole to roughly the 4 o'clock position where the spring gap should also be for lubing a non sealed bearing.http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mercruise...ories_Gear&hash=item4170ca2cb8#ht_1925wt_1144
Click to expand...

The last genuine bearing I fitted , about 6 weeks ago was the non lube type and came with a blank plug to replace the grease nipple.
 
volvopaul said:
The last genuine bearing I fitted , about 6 weeks ago was the non lube type and came with a blank plug to replace the grease nipple.
Click to expand...

Yes, the one I fitted last year was a non lube type as well; not OEM though. OEM stuff albeit somewhat more expensive, tends to come with all the bits that might be required. Like Ford Mondeo rear bearings; OEM and the more expensive non OEM ones come with new bolts, most others don't. The bolts are in 99% of cases not reusable ( an angle grinder is often required to remove them !). So you have to drive to a Ford dealer to buy them; no money saved after all !

The two VP V8 exhaust riser kits I bought on Ebay recently came with gaskets. 2 in each kit. 4 in total. A bit of a bargain at ca. £182 delivered for the lot What are the holes/ blanking plugs on those risers for ? They blank off holes directly into the exhaust gas flow, nothing to do with the casting process.


As no blanking plug came with my non OEM gimbal bearing, I just antifouled over the grease nipple; with a note in the owners manual service record that a non greasable type was fitted.
 
well I bought the slide hammer kit from machine mart as recommended, but the bearing won't budge. Spent all day trying to get the ba$tard out!

Ive resorted to drilling holes in it to try and weaken it........
 
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