Getting Batteries tested

rwoofer

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I suspect that my batteries are on the way out, as the voltage seems to drop a lot after not a lot of use.

Does anyone know where I can get my batteries tested cheaply, near Gosport (but happy to cart the batteries around a bit)?

If they are shot, where can a buy a new set cheaply. Tried to search Google using "marine batteries" and unbelievably it came up with no suppliers.

thanks in advance

RB



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bigmart

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For replacement batteries try "http://www.countybattery.co.uk/" i've found them very quick with excellent advice & good prices too.

Martin

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AIDY

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Barden Batteries
Energy House, 10 Fleming Close, Segenworth East, Fareham, Hampshire PO15 5SB
Tel: 44 (0) 1489 570770 Fax: 44 (0) 1489 579913

<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.bardenbatteries.co.uk> Barden Batteries Website Here</A>

Just off Junction 9 of the M27

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Trevor_swfyc

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Sounds as though they are on the way out, a battery that has been fully charged should if it is in good condition settle at about 12.6 volts. If after fully charging yours falls below 12 volts on standing for a week then it is NBG. If you have a dead cell then it could fall to as low as 10 volts.
I get my leisure batteries from Camping and General and engine start batteries with a good cranking capability from Halfords.

Trevor

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VicMallows

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Towsure (your side of Bitterne bridge) do 100Ah 'leisure' batteries at £39.99.
I'm sure some of the hi-tech types are better, but on cost-effectiveness they get my vote. Should easily manage 5years if reasonably looked after.

Vic

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steverow

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The Only sure way to test your batteries (if it's not a totally sealed unit) is to test each cell with a hygrometer. This is a glass device that looks like a test tube with a
rubber squeezee on the end of it, and available from Halfords or Motorworld for about 2.99.
It measures the specific gravity of the battery acid in each cell and any faulty cell will show red.
Wear rubber gloves when doing it and wear something old, as any splashes will cause holes to appear in your clothing.
A good battery should maintain a charge of between 12.5 and 12.7 volts.
Any less and it would indicate that a cell is going or has gone down.
Job is a tad messy, but can save you a fortune.
Ive seen no end of perfectly good batteries thrown away in our marina.

Steve.


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andyball

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Furneaux riddall- 02392 668621 off airport service rd, portsmouth. Should test & sell batt's from cheap leisure to proper marine. Lucas service nearby will also test, I wd think.

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ParaHandy

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this site <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.uuhome.de/william.darden/>here</A> is very good and will answer most of your questions. you'll end up buying a digital voltmeter (halfords £30 or so).

supposedly, you pay for what you get where leisure marine batteries are concerned but most pals around me in gosport recomend hardway marine (they're on the web somewhere) who sell 110ah for £60 each and they also sell them with both terminal orientation (ie batteries with -ve to left and right). just bought two and they're OK. ask me in 6 years time ....

when you're about to buy the battery, take the digital voltmeter with you and measure the voltage (don't bother with any blether from the 'experts' in the shop). if its 12.5 or less pick another. what you can not tell is how long the battery has been stood in the shop - it could be a whole year for all you know and you do not want it if it has as the plates are likely sulphated already.

the old batteries would drop to 12.35v (70% or less charged) 24hrs after charging and that was the initial tell tale signs that trouble was coming which finally happened a year later when one of them dropped a cell after charging ...



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steverow

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Yeah Yeah...I do know the difference, i have a hyGrometer on the boat and a hyDrometer in the garage, sorry, lets call it a freudian typo shall we....
Anyway I doubt whether the shelf stacker in Halfords is going to know the difference anyway...

Steve.





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G

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Any local garage or Battery / Tyre place will have a tester that puts a heavy load across the item - shows if any cell is duff etc.

As to buying new - for starting engine - I like a nice heavy-duty 'Diesel' Battery from local Car factors, and for domestic - either large standard truck battery from same factors or a leisure battery from the local caravan shop ......(at present I have a 120 a/hr truck battery + 100 a/hr diesel HD job fitted and they provide all I need for 4-5 trips etc. and have lasted 4 years already without fancy gizmos etc. - just straight charging via 1-both-2-off switch etc. (Ihave a small trickle solar panel to cover what the auto-bilge-pump takes)


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Andrew_Fanner

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You could try the BattAid tablets available from many car shops, eg Halfords. There are 12 tablets in a tube, so to put 4 into each cell of a 12V battery you will need 2 tubes. It may work. I'm trying to revive a battery with them at the moment, it may save a few quid being spent at Ferneau Riddell this weekend. I've used them with success with a camper van before now.

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G

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Voltmeter on its own is open load and not really indicative of anything ...

I have a Hydrometer in glass for acid / density levels indicating charge ...... nb - the density is an indicator of level of acid in the 'water' of the battery and actually when no problems with other contaminate will give good idea of charge state of battery. Weak or contaminated acid solution will show false.
Second item I have a 9.99 Halfords - Draper Battery / Alternator tester .... so its a cheap and cheerful item that is only an indicator and not truly accurate - but it has shown me when I have problems with charging etc.


<hr width=100% size=1>Nigel ... and of course Yahoo groups :
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ParaHandy

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beg to differ but voltmeter is the simplest and easily as accurate test of battery condition as hydrometer. typical cheap hydrometers (eg halford's) are not temperature stabilised and are made, in my opinion, of weak glass which can and will fracture easily. mine did. the link i gave has temperature factors to re-calculate charge.

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