westernman
Well-Known Member
What would you put on it to protect it and stop it rusting?
Galvanised Steel Rigging
- Thread starter westernman
- Start date
Kukri
Well-Known Member
Cue for a huge list of magic preparations, including:
Anhydrous lanolin (E. Hiscock) (you get it from Boots)
Boiled linseed oil diluted with lighter fluid "so it sinks in"
Stockholm Tar
Old varnish
etc!
(I use boiled oil and the end of a can of varnish)
Anhydrous lanolin (E. Hiscock) (you get it from Boots)
Boiled linseed oil diluted with lighter fluid "so it sinks in"
Stockholm Tar
Old varnish
etc!
(I use boiled oil and the end of a can of varnish)
DownWest
Well-Known Member
The bible on this is The Complete Rigger's Apprentice by Brion Toss.
PP 215. 1/2 and 1/2 black paint and Net dip ( Net Dip is an asphalt based paint for tarring nylon twine.) It is too thin by itself so the black paint stiffens it up a bit.
If trad marlin: Stockholm tar, linseed oil and Japan drier.
We used to use anhydrous lanolin on aircraft control cables and Toss recomends it too or complete coating of rigging. Get the book it a good read apart from the info. Mine was from Amazon, here in about 4 days.
Andrew
PP 215. 1/2 and 1/2 black paint and Net dip ( Net Dip is an asphalt based paint for tarring nylon twine.) It is too thin by itself so the black paint stiffens it up a bit.
If trad marlin: Stockholm tar, linseed oil and Japan drier.
We used to use anhydrous lanolin on aircraft control cables and Toss recomends it too or complete coating of rigging. Get the book it a good read apart from the info. Mine was from Amazon, here in about 4 days.
Andrew
westernman
Well-Known Member
I have seen many different things recommended and a couple of new ones here.
I get the idea that almost anything which stays flexible and is thin enough to get to soak in will do the job! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Stockholm tar is black sticky stuff right?
That is what I seem to remember the Cutty Sark used to smell off when I visited her as a kid.
I get the idea that almost anything which stays flexible and is thin enough to get to soak in will do the job! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Stockholm tar is black sticky stuff right?
That is what I seem to remember the Cutty Sark used to smell off when I visited her as a kid.
H
highandry
Guest
I used boiled linseed oil, gloss varnish and black paint.(dries to a shiny black finish) Give it a good stir. If you're doing it from a bosuns chair stop painting it on about a foot before you reach the bottle screws. Wrap the b/screws in kitchen roll. The mix will run down the lay of the wire to the kitchen roll and soak up, instead of running down to the deck. I served my splices with tarred marlin from the trawler supply place in Grimsby, better than painting them with stockholm tar which marks everything when it gets soft in warm sunshine. I blackened down my rig once a year and 10 years later the wire was bright shiny under the coating if I scraped it off.
Gordonmc
Well-Known Member
Not much more to suggest, but for what its worth I dress my galv rigging when the mast is stepped. Lay the rigging in a length of horizontal gutter and pour over a mix of boiled linseed oil, stockholm tar and old paint in roughly equal proportions. Give it a good rummle with an old paint brush and hang by one end. A tree comes in handy. The old paint is only there to help the oil and tar go off which will take about a week.
If you are dressing with the mast up go for a cleaner goop, lanolin or Finnigans Waxoil.
If you are dressing with the mast up go for a cleaner goop, lanolin or Finnigans Waxoil.
matelot
Well-Known Member
[ QUOTE ]
What would you put on it to protect it and stop it rusting?
[/ QUOTE ]
A stainless steel sheath!
Out of curiosity, why use 19th century technology when there's something much better - stainless rigging?
What would you put on it to protect it and stop it rusting?
[/ QUOTE ]
A stainless steel sheath!
Out of curiosity, why use 19th century technology when there's something much better - stainless rigging?
dombuckley
Well-Known Member
The chromium and nickel content which makes stainless steel corrosion-resistant also reduces ductility and raises the issue of fracture due to stress fatigue. Fatigue life is an unknown factor: it can lead to rigging failure without warning, as stainless steel will remain shiny pretty much until the day it parts. It is prudent to consider the life of such items normally as approximately 10 years, anything more than 15 is certainly on borrowed time.
Galvanised rigging not only gives you warning of failure (i.e. any weakening is signalled by rust), but is also much more ductile. Coupled with the fact that it is more likely to be 7x7 rather than 1x19, means it is vastly superior in terms of resisting the metal fatigue which dictates the lifespan of stainless rigging. I know of several boats with galvanised rigging over 50 years old, still in good condition.
Also there's the question of aesthetics: an old gaffer with shiny rigging? Ugh!
Oh, and it's about half the price.....
Galvanised rigging not only gives you warning of failure (i.e. any weakening is signalled by rust), but is also much more ductile. Coupled with the fact that it is more likely to be 7x7 rather than 1x19, means it is vastly superior in terms of resisting the metal fatigue which dictates the lifespan of stainless rigging. I know of several boats with galvanised rigging over 50 years old, still in good condition.
Also there's the question of aesthetics: an old gaffer with shiny rigging? Ugh!
Oh, and it's about half the price.....
DownWest
Well-Known Member
Nicely put, got there before me.
A
A
neil_s
Well-Known Member
I found boiled linseed oil on its own worked well. It goes nonsticky after about a week or so and weathers to black by itself. You need to put a coat on once a year. You could put the first coat on hot so that it soaks in well, but after that cold is good.
Neil
Neil
Seanick
Well-Known Member
Agree with linseed, varnish and black paint, or a dash of stockholm tar. The tar makes it really slow to dry though, so it gets a bit fluffy....
