Fuel problem

Refueler said:
Never had an engine 'pop' on just ES ? Really ?

If it doen't pop - it will visibly / audibly turn over faster on starter ... with usually a lot of white smoke out of exhaust

If you don't agree with that - then discussion over.
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If you read post 9, you'll see that the OP said the engine turned faster with EasyStart.
 
pvb said:
If you read post 9, you'll see that the OP said the engine turned faster with EasyStart.
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Yes I did read that - but I also read all his other ... so I have definite impression that all is not what it seems ...

There's a lot of things to check before we start disturbing fuel unions etc.

Sorry but time and again we have a guy with a problem ... the posts come flying in .. dismantle this ... dismantle that ... its this .. its that ... and quite often its something quite simple ...
I get the distinct impression that we have an OP that is not a Diesel mechanic or familiar with them ... so do we want to start getting him with fuel lines pulled etc. before we eliminate the simpler stuff ? Ans so far even the simple stuff needs explaining to him .. (Apologies to OP .. I do not mean to be rude).
 
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black mercury said:
And double check the engine stop lever is pushed fully home. Check the lever on the engine side. Wouldn't be the first time.
Is this engine new to you,or have you owned it for a while?
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It’s been in the boat a good few years before I got it. I stated it last year after I fixed the water pump with new seals. The freeze plug came out last month and I sealed it back in yesterday. The boat is on the hard. I took out the engine stop cable. Not sure if I should pull it forward for start or push it back!
 
RichardS said:
Try turning the engine over by hand. Just use any of the pulleys or even just pull the belt around. If you can turn it a couple of revolutions without using a spanner then you have no compression. If it turns easily with a spanner on the crank pulley nut then you have limited compression.

Richard
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What does it mean if I have no decompression? How serious is that as I’ve had one problem after another with this boat?
 
Thedigger said:
It’s been in the boat a good few years before I got it. I stated it last year after I fixed the water pump with new seals. The freeze plug came out last month and I sealed it back in yesterday. The boat is on the hard. I took out the engine stop cable. Not sure if I should pull it forward for start or push it back!
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I reckon you should ask a marine engineer to take a look, it won't take long, so shouldn't cost much.
 
Thedigger said:
It’s been in the boat a good few years before I got it. I stated it last year after I fixed the water pump with new seals. The freeze plug came out last month and I sealed it back in yesterday. The boat is on the hard. I took out the engine stop cable. Not sure if I should pull it forward for start or push it back!
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Oh Dear .... Freeze Plug.

They are NOT Freeze Plugs - its a commonly held misunderstanding of their real use. They are actually Casting Plugs ... it is by coincidence that they are generally in the water chamber parts of the block.

If plug comes out as a whole due to engine has water in and it freezes ... there can be other damage done to the engine internally.

You say you put it back in and sealed it ... Oh Oh ..... not a good idea. Once a plug has been used - its circumference is slightly compressed due to it being slightly taper fit into the block. It needs good force to fit in as it squeezes that taper. You should always fit a new one if old comes out. A temporary solution is plastic metal to seal an old one in ... but replace with new earliest opportunity.
 
pvb said:
I reckon you should ask a marine engineer to take a look, it won't take long, so shouldn't cost much.
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Yes. The OP seems not to have a deep understanding of engines. It would have the advamtages of ...
A) Getting the problem sorted plus any other little niggles so it will be dependable
B) Be an opportunity to quiz the engineer to gain some good knowledge. (we've all done it. Probably a pain in the neck, but you can get real answers to actual problems rather than this forum scattergun approach).
 
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RichardS said:
He said that it did not fire with Easy Start. If it doesn't fire with that, you can faff about with fuel lines until hell freezes over but you'll just be wasting your time.
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With the greatest respect to the OP, do you think he'd know whether it had "fired"? He said it had cranked faster when using EasyStart, so obviously something was happening. Regardless, it seems the OP doesn't know anything about his engine installation, so he needs to get a professional to look at it and explain the salient points to him.
 
Thedigger said:
It’s been in the boat a good few years before I got it. I stated it last year after I fixed the water pump with new seals. The freeze plug came out last month and I sealed it back in yesterday. The boat is on the hard. I took out the engine stop cable. Not sure if I should pull it forward for start or push it back!
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Not sure what you mean by 'took out the stop cable', did you remove it? Anyway, the stop lever will need to be pushed fully home and throttle lever set at max for starting. If you are looking at the front of the engine the stop lever on the engine is on your left,make sure the lever has returned to the off position by trying to pull it back to its stop. The decompression lever at the top of the engine should be in the off position by letting it spring back. Next,you say you have bled the engine,but where to? You should have air free fuel coming from the bleed screw atop the engine fuel filter, after this is bled you open the bleed screw at the injection pump with the same 10mm spanner. If there is air at the pump on a gm series it won't start. Also if the engine is getting diesel it should smoke from the exhaust, wether it starts or not. See how you get on, and as already mentioned if it is in the water shut off the sea cock until it starts.
 
Refueler said:
Can you turn it 360 degrees easily ?

Or do you find it getting harder and harder to turn till you really have to give it some effort to turn at one point ?

Suggest remove Air Filter - spray Easy Start into intake pipe.

Oh - ignore the sooth sayers about using Easy Start ..... it does not create an engine that will only start on Easy Start.

I've had Fordson ... Dexta ... Ford ... Belarus tractors .... boat engines .... all sorts that needed a helping hand when really cold with Easy Start ... never had any trouble starting without unless Cold Start wasn't working in winter.

It is true that excessive is not advised ... but using to start a reluctant engine is fine.
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Engine is 4 stroke. Every stroke is equal to 180 degrees of crank rotation. 4 strokes equal to 720 degrees of rotation.
 
RichardS said:
Try turning the engine over by hand. Just use any of the pulleys or even just pull the belt around. If you can turn it a couple of revolutions without using a spanner then you have no compression. If it turns easily with a spanner on the crank pulley nut then you have limited compression.

Richard
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I have a hand crank so I’ll try that but you reckon should take a bit of puff to move it?
 
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