Foot Block v Swivel Block

[RunAgroundHard]

Currently I have a port a starboard ouble foot blocks from Lewmar mounted on a triangular teak block. They turn the furling genoa and staysail sheets to their respective winches in the cockpit and thus experience high loads. The triangular teak block is deteriorating and needs replaced and access under the block is difficult plus, the foundation bolts are at awkward angles, not at right angles to the deck; basically a poor fit.

I have two choices: replace the teak triangular block and use a foot block or fit u bolts and swivel blocks to replace the foot block. I can fit a rope deck saver under the loose blocks.

Interested in points of view on the pros and cons of using a swivel block instead of replicating the current set up, or even low friction eyes.

As a by the way, I would use a stainless fabrication to replace the teak, if I decide to go down the foot block road.

 

[William_H]

We more usually find the block (I thinkl) you speak of on a track so that you can get precise adjustment of sheeting point. That is very desirable when you use a furling reefing jib or even hank jibs of different sizes. ie forward for small jib back for large. Although a barber hauler can also effect the same cahnges. What we are trying to do is get the pull back of the clew to match the pull down of the clew. Or in practice to get the sail to luff equally at top or bottom.
I may have misunderstood which block you are asking about however. Perhaps you are asking about another block downstream from sheet block which guides the sheet as it approaches the winch.
Either way it is vital that the sheet approach the winch from a point lower or level with bottom of winch barrel. This to avert over rides of winch wraps.
On my little boat 21ft the block is on a track but is held upright by a spring around the shackle. Giving movement to align with forces. However a flogging sheet is inclined to hit the window and damage perspex. Just something to look out for.
So back to OP question I have seen boats with the block in the form of a smallish wide roller (solid)fixed to the carriage on the track. Of course larger sheave is better but made small to keep sheet approach to the winch low. There does not seem to be a problem of needing sheave free to align with sheet force. However it would seem desirable to have self alignment with a normal narrow sheave.
Actual mounting to deck is a matter of what is doable. But I think I would do away with teak block.
What is important is that this first block between the jib and either winch or turning block takes a lot of load and punishment. I hope this waffling helps. ol'will
Ah ignore all above it seems it is a turning block down the back that you are concerned about. Bolted down flat seems to be the way it was. All good if alignment of rope arrival and departure is good to sheave. If not then go an arrangement with movement to align with loads. But again be wary of arrival level to winches. ol'will