Flybridge redesign

[Whitelighter]

Hi W.

Understood. I'd definitely have the table drop with an infill to make the subpar at the back.
The removable backrest on the L is a good idea

 

[Nick_H]

It's definitely worth the time and effort to improve the flybridge if you're planning to keep the boat a while. I changed ours quite a bit when we first got the boat, and we've really benefitted from the changes over the last 8 years.

A couple of points to think about - it's preferable in my opinion to have a fixed sunpad if possible, rather than having to convert a dining area, as you may want to move regularly between the two, or even have both in use at the same time. I think you'll find a convertible dinette rarely gets converted. You may have no other option though.

Also, you may need to check weight loadings of your flybridge overhang if you plan to have a number of people sat right at the back. If nothing else i'd stand a few people on it before hand and see how much it deflects and/or creaks.

 

[Whitelighter]

Hi nick,

I was reading your thread yesterday for a little inspiration
I had thought about the FB overhang, and it's a consideration. The overhang back from the buttresses isn't huge but it's worth having a few bids stood up there to test for sure.

Interesting what you say about fixed sun pads - I've always seen them as a waste. Perhaps I'm wrong.
Though all modern stuff seems to do away with them - see the new P52. I don't think I have the room for both.

 

[Deleted User YDKXO]

Jez one other thing even though everyone here thinks the aft C or L-shape settee on the flybridge is something coming from Fairline, as far as I know the first boat with that design was the Ferretti 53 launched in 1997. Outside Ferretti, I think Fairline was the first to adapt this system on the 46 Phantom, and then on all the Phantom and Squadron series.

This was the layout of the Ferretti 53 flybridge. Actually I think this design wasn't ideal because the sunpad was under the bimini and the aft seating position was partially exposed to the sun. IMHO wherever the seating position is, it definitely needs to be shaded by the bimini and that usually means that the seating position should be more towards the middle of the flybridge, not aft

 

[Whitelighter]

All good points mike.
The Bimini we have is a huge double frame job (I dont think its a ferretti original) but it doesn't quite cover the full fly.

Happy to take suggestions from the floor about alternate layouts, bearing in mind the steps (both sets) and the helm are non movable

 

[kashurst]

I think your original sketch is pretty much spot on. It utilises the available space and reflects the design/age of the boat, so it will look appropriate. Yes you could rearrange for a sunpad etc but a table that will drop to suite will work. We spent money doing new sunpads on flybridge and lift up seats on coach roof on the forward deck - how often have they been used in last 3 years.......never. This year converted sunpad to a sort of big lounger so people can sit with legs out facing forward. People sit/lie where the sun is/isn't shining depending on the weather/time of day/where you are moored.
go with what you propose in a style to suit the original design ethos with a grill and fridge behind the helm. - if you can find a BBQ unit with a bit of space for food prep - cutting bread, slicing steaks, opening wine, preping salads etc rather than sink right next to griddle. Pick a table top that has a folding side to make it easier to get in and out too. Most of the time you are not eating.

 

[RogerRat]

Im totally rubbish at sketching things, but this is a cobbled together rough plan of the type of thing im thinking

[/IMG]

Nice little project Jez and some good ideas coming up from all corners. I would start at the fixed points that can't be moved like the helm seats.

I generally like Princess ideas but I can't understand why the insist on placing double helm seats bang up against the side of the rails so the skipper either sits alone or has to keep getting up to let someone sit down.

I don't see the need to go to the expense of 'Recaro' seats either as you won't need a full harness at 8 knots. In you illustration above you could either move the bar/grill more to port so that it is inline with a 'double' helm seat bench and leaving a pedestrian access along the outside.

Also worth considering a 'Sealine' swivel helm bench (F37) that can be rotated 90 degrees from helm to social. In which case, the bar could be aft and along side the rails.

Tuppence worth on the seating, only the flip over bollard looks dated but it does work well on small boats. I agree with earlier comments convertible tables are a waste of time but sun pads should be exposed and aft. If weight loading on the F/B overhang is an issue, sun pads weigh in lightly.

If you start at the fix points, you also won't have the expense of the project in a single hit and items can be changed each season.:encouragement:

RR

 

[KevB]

Don't shoot me but as a very cheap alternative (I couldn't afford the tens of thousands £ to do it properly) and in my opinion would look very good would be to replace what you have with modular Rattan outside furniture...

Just a thought

 

[jfm]

Jez I agree that your sketch looks like the right approach and should produce a much improved deck.

The detailing will be important. You'll need to get a 20 litre keg of cream gelcoat mixed, and do the new seat bases in GRP with curves and dims matching the originals etc. If possible it would be nice to replace the sausage style backrests everywhere and fit curved/rectangular sections in GRP with upholstered faces. This sort of stuff can be moulded at home over winter and taken to boat rather than made in spain.

A telescopic pedestal for the table will (I think) need to be 3 sections so needs to be chosen carefully to avoid wobble

 

[Whitelighter]

Hi john,

Would you take the existing boxes off and use them to make moulds?
I anticipate taking the whole lot back to the uk in the off season.

I get what you mean with the back panels. Not sure how I'd start making those though

 

[jfm]

Hard to tell just from pics. Probably take just the port side bench box because you can use same section for the new athwartships piece that you might decide to cut/shut/extend (which means you need a perfect colour match). Alternatively you might just make a whole new piece of lego for the new "T junction piece, and the new athwartships piece, and preserve fully the old port side bench component. All depends on dims

You might want to give all this to a GRP freelancer, of which there are a few nearish to you following FL closure

To a skilled GRP guy this is simple stuff. Quite time consuming for diy-er unless you are very confident with GRP. You're taking making moulds in MDF, split points to create the bottom flange, mould blocks to create the recesses for the varnished lids, and so on. you'll also have to work around dovetail with the release angles in the existing components

I'd also want to think carefully about the system for fastening the new boxes to the deck in a manner that gives long term confidence of no leaks. And if there is crown in your deck otr any slight port side list (dunno if there is) then you need to devise drainage for the new port side U shape (which can be simple - mouse holes in bottom of new boxes - I'm not trying to overcomplicate this)

Although I do stuff in GRP myself and have built GRP hulls from scratch I prefer to give this sort of work to GRP craftsmen because they are just so good at it, and way faster then me. Trick will be to find a freelancer so it is not £70/hour type work (or whatever) to pay for overheads of a big business. You just need to produce very good dimension drawings for the craftsman to work from, and figure out the lego-fit-together aspects, and where you need flanges and so on. I'll email you the drawings from my new flybridge storage chest that I had made one off, as a bit of inspiration! (to yr yahoo not work)