Flow coat inside engine box

Sheerline

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I'm cleaning up my engine box/stairs.

Inside the box, it's the original fibreglass, and I'd like to make it whiter, cleaner etc.

(there's virtually no room for soundproofing.)

I was about to flow coat it, but wondered about its flammability.

Should I use flow coat - or paint?

Or doesn't it matter.

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oldsaltoz

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G'day Andrew,

I have applied 2 pot flow-coat to the back of engine box / steps without any problems at all, it's also a good idea to fill any right-angle corners with some balloons, this makes cleaning much easier and quicker later on.

Look for any sign of exposed timber and coat it with an epoxy resin first to prevent staining later as flow-coat is Not Waterproof.

Avagoodweekend........



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boatmike

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The easiest and cheapest is to use polyester gel coat. Buy the pigment seperately and it will be even cheaper. De-grease and lightly abrade surface before applying and don't forget that you need to add wax to the gel coat otherwise the surface will always remain tacky. Otherwise you can use Solventless Epoxy and apply as paint but it probably wont give you a nice shiny glossy surface to clean. Neither are a bigger fire risk than the rest of a GRP boat! Some paint however is. So gel coat is a good plan.

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oldsaltoz

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G'day Reeac, the sailor with a super slim profile.......

As Boatmike pointed out, it is a lesser fire risk, but Danboline is also ok and not too expensive, just make sure you read the preparation instructions on the can.

Here is a link (In the UK) for International Danboline.

http://www.nwepaints.co.uk/acatalog/SpecialProducts.html

Andavagoodweekend........



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Cantata

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Pardon my ignorance, but what exactly is 'flow-coat'? I understood it was simply gel-coat painted on with a brush - is it something different, a specific product, or what?

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boatmike

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And its a lot more expensive than buying the resin, catalyst, pigment and wax and mixing it yourself....

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oldsaltoz

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G'day Cantata,

Basic explanation: We could fill a book on this subject.

Gel coat is a wax free resin and pigment mix, the lack of wax (that forms on the surface during cure) means it has to be covered in order to cure, glad wrap works ok, but a small sheet of stiffer clear plastic will give a better finish and reduce the sanding required.

Flow coat on the other hand is more like your standard polyester resins but can be an Isophthalic Polyester resin or other, depending on what type of finish you are after, full gloss to matt finish.

Flow coat can be applied by brush, roller or spray, curing is achieved by adding a catalyst, gel time is about 10 or 15 minutes at 25* C with one % MEKP.

I hope this helps

Avagoodweekend.



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FullCircle

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I'm for the Danboline solution. I did mine in Danbo, and now I need Sunglasses when I am working in the engine compartment, and I can see any leaks or mist spray very early. It also wipes round and cleans with non abrasive cleaner on a sponge.
So pleased that I did the whole boat in the lockers and in the bilges. Worth the 15 quid and the few hours expended.

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snowleopard

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i coated mine with fire-resistant resin. there are various types available. i applied it over surface tissue to get a thick layer but you could also use thixotropic paste.

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oldsaltoz

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G'day Capsco,

Your "normal run of the mill" flowcaot is at best water resistant, but not waterproof, remember that it is only a wax poly resin, bog standard. apply this to raw timber that gets wet and see how long it lasts.

An epoxy flowcoat on the other hand will last much longer in the same situation, however many production boat builders consider this too expensive.

I was called to an AU$800,000 40 foot stinkie only a couple of months ago to investigate the cause of brown stains on the inside of the transom. The strange thing was the marks looked like swarf had got mixed into the flow coat and had decided to start rusting, the boat was built in mid 2000; the odd thing was that all the stains started about 6 inches below the deck, all at the same level right across the transom.

After poking around for half an hour I found the bottom of a transom locker on deck had rotted and the timber was soaking wet under the gelcoat. The original owner had applied a strip of fibreglass the full width of the transom to hide the leak, but failed to get a bond in the deck to transom right-angle, (I suspect this lack of bonding was from new) so the water, now stained by the rotted timber was leaking from the bottom edge of the new fibreglass strip. He (the original owner) had also painted the area with a fresh layer of flowcoat, making it difficult to locate the point of entry.

Never paint over bare timber with flowcoat, it will get wet and it will rot, if you must apply flowcoat over timber it should first be sealed with an epoxy resin as standard resin alone will not maintain a bond over an extended period.

If the timber has a good covering of fibreglass then flowcoat will work fine, but it only needs a pin hole to start rotting out the timber.

I hope this helps.

Avagoodweekend......



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Sheerline

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Thanks for all the advice.

I've now flow-coated it. It's sitting in the backyard curing - the resin's gone off nicely.

It is brilliant white, much smoother than I'd expected and I need sunglasses.

My wife keeps reminding me;"it's only the inside of the engine box darling..."



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