First shakedown cruise of year - what can possibly go wrong?

RichardS

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Having spent the last week working on the boat (installing solar panels, changing secondary engine filters, re-greasing water pumps, servicing winches, general cleaning and fettling etc) we decided to take a trip to the islands today. Good weather forecast meant that a night or two at anchor would be a good start to the season and a good test of all the systems including the new panels.

We've not been able to get the genoa out of the forecabin this week because the wind in the marina has been from behind the boat and that makes it difficult to hoist with just the two of us, so the plan was to motor for 2.5 hours to a nice sandy anchorage to test the engines, set up the genoa tonight or tomorrow whilst we are at anchor facing into the breeze and then sail back in a couple of days.

Before we left at 12:30 today we filled up with fuel (263 litres) and I checked all the systems ..... navigation, windlass etc and everything worked perfectly ..... especially the windlass which I ran up and down a few times to be sure.

So off we go happily into the sun, a triumph of hope over experience.

The 15kt wind is dead behind us and everything is going like clockwork and at 3:00 pm and 20 miles later we pull into our little bay and Sally goes up to the bow to drop the anchor. After a few seconds she calls back "nothing is happening". I say "its fine, I only tested in a couple of hours ago". She replies, it's not fine, it's buggered". I check the overload trip and it's all OK so I go forward to try it myself. A click from the solenoid (which I only replaced a a couple of years ago) and that's it.

What to do? Drop the anchor manually now and haul up a 25kg anchor on 35m of 10mm chain in a day or two if I can't fix it without parts ..... or turn around and motor back to the marina. OK, it's a no brainer ..... and we're on our way back and still no head sail!

We arrive back and I say "Well, at least the engines are both running beautifully but I'll just check them to see if everything is OK". I open the starboard engine hatch and everything looks good. I open up the port hatch and there's water everywhere! WTF is going on. I taste the water and it's seawater. A quick look at the just-serviced water pump and everything looks fine. I start up the engine and can immediately see the water spraying out of the long concertina rubber exhaust hose which runs from the water trap over the engine and down to the skin fitting.

What a farce. The boat was only built in 2008 and I would have thought that these heavy duty rubber hoses would last longer than 9 years but there you go .... yet another job to add to the list. :(

Richard

Almost forgot the one good thing .... a lovely cloud formation that was tubular like a long cigar stretching across the horizon. It didn't last long before it broke into windblown pieces.

IMG_5454.JPG
 
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Our first shakedown cruise last Saturday resulted in us discovering we had no rudder - interesting when moving around a marina.

Divers arrive soon in attempt to find said rudder and then we can figure out what went wrong.

ho hum.........
 
After a few seconds she calls back "nothing is happening". I say "its fine, I only tested in a couple of hours ago". She replies, it's not fine, it's buggered". I check the overload trip and it's all OK so I go forward to try it myself. A click from the solenoid (which I only replaced a a couple of years ago) and that's it.

What to do? Drop the anchor manually now and haul up a 25kg anchor on 35m of 10mm chain in a day or two if I can't fix it without parts ..... or turn around and motor back to the marina. OK, it's a no brainer ..... and we're on our way back and still no head sail!

That's a real pity: As a matter of interest, can't you you just short the solenoid switch to drop and retrieve the anchor?

Either way have a great evening's sail; it's raining here in the UK and pouring down on Wed :encouragement:

Edit: I'm sure you know this but as an off-chance, if the solenoid is one of those old plunger switches (seemed to be quite common), if you take off the cover it should be possible to push up either the 'up' or 'down' plunger to activate the windlass in the appropriate direction.
 
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That's a real pity: As a matter of interest, can't you you just short the solenoid switch to drop and retrieve the anchor?

Either way have a great evening's sail; it's raining here in the UK and pouring down on Wed :encouragement:

Edit: I'm sure you know this but as an off-chance, if the solenoid is one of those old plunger switches (seemed to be quite common), if you take off the cover it should be possible to push up either the 'up' or 'down' plunger to activate the windlass in the appropriate direction.

Dropping the anchor is easy as there's a clutch mechanism on it. It's getting it up that's the problem. ;)

The solenoid is a completely sealed unit so no manual operation is possible. Although we can hear it clicking from the foredeck, it's actually behind a screwed in panel on the other side of the bridgedeck bulkhead so bypassing it with jumper cables is possible although rather tricky.

When it failed in 2014 it would drop the anchor but not retrieve it so I reversed the connections and we continued our cruise using gravity drop and electric retrieval .... but this time it's dead in both directions.

Richard
 
I woke up at 3:00am this morning with a real Eureka moment. I woke my Wife and gave her my theory and she punched my arm several times and told me to shut up and go to sleep. :ambivalence:

When I checked this thread this morning I expected that one of you sharp engineering types (you know who you are) would have already come to the same conclusion and, as you would have done this at arms length and it's not your boat so hardly an issue which would be filling your thoughts, I would have said that you deserved a prize for one of the most brilliant examples of a remote diagnosis ever on these forums.

So, this is my theory.

My boat like many (most?) other has to have the engine running to operate the windlass. In my case it's the Port engine (I can hear the penny dropping all over the UK) so somewhere in the Port engine compartment there must be a relay which, when the engine starts, closes a heavy cable connection which runs to the bow and the windlass as all the batteries are in the stern. So what happens if salt water is spraying around in the engine compartment?

This sounds like a likely explanation of why the windlass would work 2 hours earlier. It was just a matter of joining the symptoms to form a diagnosis. I should have been able to do this as soon as I saw the exhaust hose problem but, as they say, we never stop learning.

Richard
 
I woke up at 3:00am this morning with a real Eureka moment. I woke my Wife and gave her my theory and she punched my arm several times and told me to shut up and go to sleep. :ambivalence:

When I checked this thread this morning I expected that one of you sharp engineering types (you know who you are) would have already come to the same conclusion and, as you would have done this at arms length and it's not your boat so hardly an issue which would be filling your thoughts, I would have said that you deserved a prize for one of the most brilliant examples of a remote diagnosis ever on these forums.

So, this is my theory.

My boat like many (most?) other has to have the engine running to operate the windlass. In my case it's the Port engine (I can hear the penny dropping all over the UK) so somewhere in the Port engine compartment there must be a relay which, when the engine starts, closes a heavy cable connection which runs to the bow and the windlass as all the batteries are in the stern. So what happens if salt water is spraying around in the engine compartment?

This sounds like a likely explanation of why the windlass would work 2 hours earlier. It was just a matter of joining the symptoms to form a diagnosis. I should have been able to do this as soon as I saw the exhaust hose problem but, as they say, we never stop learning.

Richard

While I do normally run the engine while lifting the anchor, I don't always. In appropriate circumstances, I really like to be able to sail away from anchor. So why connect your windlass so that it cannot work unless the engine is running? Mine certainly isn't. I do have good battery capacity, but done sensibly, lifting the anchor shouldn't take too much out of the batteries.
 
While I do normally run the engine while lifting the anchor, I don't always. In appropriate circumstances, I really like to be able to sail away from anchor. So why connect your windlass so that it cannot work unless the engine is running? Mine certainly isn't. I do have good battery capacity, but done sensibly, lifting the anchor shouldn't take too much out of the batteries.

Perhaps it's a charter boat thing? I know all the boats I've ever chartered (and this is an ex-charter boat) had to have the engine running before the windlass would operate. However, on this occasion I totally agree with you that it would be better if it was not wired in this way, although perhaps that might cause a different issue at a different time for different reasons. It seems everything is a compromise of some sort. :(

Richard
 
Perhaps it's a charter boat thing? I know all the boats I've ever chartered (and this is an ex-charter boat) had to have the engine running before the windlass would operate. However, on this occasion I totally agree with you that it would be better if it was not wired in this way, although perhaps that might cause a different issue at a different time for different reasons. It seems everything is a compromise of some sort. :(

Richard

The moral of this story is that if you (and your wife) believed in gravity ;) you would have had no problem. You would have dropped the anchor without using power, and when you wanted to lift it again, the engine would have been running, and the windlass would have worked normally.
 
The moral of this story is that if you (and your wife) believed in gravity ;) you would have had no problem. You would have dropped the anchor without using power, and when you wanted to lift it again, the engine would have been running, and the windlass would have worked normally.

Haha .... and I believe in fairies as well. ;)

Anyway, today's first lesson is that ideas which arrive in your head fully-formed at 3.00 in the morning should be quickly discarded. My Wife should have thumped me harder.

The reason for my conversion is that as soon as I got down into the engine compartment and started looking at the various relays and solenoids I thought to myself "Which idiot boatbuilder would put a relay in the 100A cable to the windlass when all you have to do to link the windlass operation to the engine running is put a relay in the 5A cable to the windlass solenoid". You've have to be pretty stupid to even consider any other options. If the cap fits etc!

As I know that the solenoid is receiving power because I can hear it clicking, I closed the engine hatch and took my tools to the bow.

First I tried a voltmeter across the solenoid 100A output terminals with the engine running and my Wife operating the windlass controls. All seems fine, 12V being delivered exactly where expected. I'm now thinking the worst i.e. burned out windlass windings.

So the cover comes off the windlass and I check the 12V feed at the windlass terminals. Fine as expected.

Next off comes the cover on the back of the windlass motor. By now I'm hoping to see worn out brushes as that will be a cheap, if fiddly, fix as the windlass will have to come out. Unfortunately the brushes look brand new so things are looking expensive. I then start fiddiling about at the end of the drive shaft (I can't get my head down to see it) with various Allen keys hoping to engage the end of the shaft and give it a spin to check that the bearings have not seized. I can't get any traction with any Allen so I take a photo to study:

IMG_5459.JPG


OK ... which engineer worthy of the name designs a large high-torque motor without an Allen or torx socket in the end?

The only alternative other than a full windlass removal is to squeeze a small screwdriver past the brushes and down to the commutator which is just visible. The screwdriver can then push round the shaft a fraction using one of the gaps in the copper:

IMG_5458.JPG


I move the commutator a fraction so the shaft is not seized. I then try the windlass control again and the motor chinks forward about the same distance again. Now we're home and dry .... it's just a very dirty commutator. At home I have aerosol cans of switch cleaner, switch cleaner with lubricant, brake cleaner, carb cleaner, any cleaner ... but none of those on the boat, an omission that will be remedied as soon as I get home.

So it's Johnson cotton buds (which I do have) and a bottle of meths.I can just get the soaked cotton bud down to the commutator and after a few screwdriver clicks and cotton bud wipes we're cooking with gas. Once she's spinning I can hold the meths bud against the commutator and let her spin herself clean. After a half dozen buds I can see the copper glowing through and she's spinning better than ever. :)

I've another yacht delivery to make tomorrow but the day after I can turn my attention to the exhaust hose. I have a roll of self-annealing tape on board so, if I can get the damn thing out, I can see a plan forming!

Richard
 
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.................... At home I have aerosol cans of switch cleaner, switch cleaner with lubricant, brake cleaner, carb cleaner, any cleaner ... but none of those on the boat, an omission that will be remedied as soon as I get home.

So it's Johnson cotton buds (which I do have) and a bottle of meths....................

Richard

Amazing what you can find in the drinks cabinet?
 
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