Finish for hardwood cockpit flooring

[Airscrew]

I have liftable boards, essentially 2 pallets, on the cockpit floor of our Centaur. Hardwood.
The existing coating from a previous owner has lasted well.
It looks like it could be coloured Sikkens, or similar.

But the two 'pallets' are at home, and in the process of sanding and prepping.
What recommendations for suitable treatment and finish, that:

Is easy to apply
preferably single coat (not 2-pack)
long lasting in that high wear area.

A varnish-look finish is not necessary

Any suggestions??
Thanks.

 

[Plum]

I have liftable boards, essentially 2 pallets, on the cockpit floor of our Centaur. Hardwood.
The existing coating from a previous owner has lasted well.
It looks like it could be coloured Sikkens, or similar.

But the two 'pallets' are at home, and in the process of sanding and prepping.
What recommendations for suitable treatment and finish, that:

Is easy to apply
preferably single coat (not 2-pack)
long lasting in that high wear area.

A varnish-look finish is not necessary

Any suggestions??
Thanks.

What species of wood? If suitable and as long as none constantly sits in a puddle then I would leave it bare.

Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk

 

[Airscrew]

Not certain which hardwood. But dont want to leave bare.

I have woodskin and letonquinois on other parts of the boat. Neither is suitable for the cockpit floor.

Any ideas anyone?

 

[Concerto]

Knowing what wood you have is key. If the cockpit grating is in small squares and has a wide border, then it is probably original and made by Westerly in their workshops. Is the grating a grey colour, but a mid brown colour when sanded, then to check if it is teak, sand with the grain and once the timber is clean, then feel the clean dust, if it feels slightly oily then it is teak. If so you do not need any wood finish. The timber will go a silver colour over time, but a quick sanding will keep it brown.

 

[Macka1706]

Any exposed timer outside the hull. Oiled only. Just rub down with Cleaner and oil cloth every few months.
I tried the varnished/sealed way. a long time ago. It and saltwater/air don't get on without either a crew or a lot on time spent on it. over time water and air find gaps and blacken it.
All my Interior timbers are Satin Epoxy over a fresh sand. with all outside oiled. 1985 still looks "almost" like new.

 

[PCUK]

Burgess Wood Sealer, developed for boats now also widely used for garden furniture. One coat to seal, two to give a satin non slip finish. Nothing to match it.

 

[Refueler]

Personally I am a believer in using the stain sold for patio decks ..... choose your preferred 'colour'.

It has inhibitors against mold ... it does not create a skin to make unsafe when wet .... it helps fight damage from exposure to elements .... and finally I think it looks far better than plain teak left to grey ...

I use it for my hand rails and other exposed wood on my boat where varnish is unsuitable.