Failed to remove the shaft coupling

[Boater On Thames]

The p bracket set screw has already been removed. Only one screw.

@Croftie Because two studs are already strong enough, and two will be easier for movement than four. I can add two more to make it four if needed.

 

[Croftie]

The p bracket set screw has already been removed. Only one screw.

@Croftie Because two studs are already strong enough, and two will be more movement than four. I can add two more to make it four if needed.

But you are not getting a good straight pull and bending the plates.
Make another "C" plate and use both at 180 degrees to strenghen the "wings"

 

[fisherman]

The p bracket set screw has already been removed. Only one screw.

@Croftie Because two studs are already strong enough, and two will be more movement than four. I can add two more to make it four if needed.

But four will spread the load, half the load is bending the inside plate leg, a quarter may not.
If only one screw I'm surprised. Normally at 90 degs. Mine had four.

 

[Boater On Thames]

Ok. Will add two more plates and two more studs tomorrow.

@fisherman Yes, checked already, only one screw.

 

[Croftie]

I hope you have clearance between the "split drift" and the P bracket bore else you may find the bearing comes out but the drift is stuck in there.
Jubilee clips would be a better solution than tie wraps

 

[Boater On Thames]

Yes. There is around 0.5mm clearance on the outside diameter.

Good idea. I will get some clips tomorrow.

 

[DinghyMan]

Disclaimer: we make and sell Cutlass Bearing Removal & Replacement Kits so hopefully this is not out of order

Tie wraps on the split pusher plates will work OK, and they get pushed out of the way as the old bearing gets removed

Two 10mm plates back to back should be plenty strong enough, as you have found using one may bend, alternate the slots for max strength


Use Grade 8 threaded rod, Sealey and Screwfix both do grade 8, 2 off 10mm will be strong enough, we use 10mm, 12mm, and 16mm in our kits

We use a plate with a large hole for the removal and a thin plate that goes in from of it for replacement


The fun part is putting the holes in the plates, we use a mix of Rotabroach, milling machine and lathe, and use plates up to 20mm thick - don't underestimate the power needed to cut large holes

You can use the same kit with the addition of one plate as a prop puller for two or four bladed props

PBO article on a DIY kit: DIY cutless bearing extractor - Practical Boat Owner

 

[Boater On Thames]

I used to think cut the open mouth from one of the corners. Then I think again what if I want to use 4 studs. So I eventually cut the open mouth from one side. Here we are, other members suggested me using 4 studs which I definitely will do tomorrow. My studs are 16mm and feel strong enough.

 

[DinghyMan]

I used to think cut the open mouth from one of the corners. Then I think again what if I want to use 4 studs. So I eventually cut the open mouth from one side. Here we are, other members suggested me using 4 studs which I definitely will do tomorrow. My studs are 16mm and feel strong enough.

Two 10mm grade 8 studs are plenty

 

[Boater On Thames]

I am afraid my bearing is too tight like my shaft coupling end up need a cutting. So I will use four 16mm studs and two pieces 10mm thick plates on each side to give it a try. If that still can't push it out. Then fire destroys the rubber and the saw cutting the bearing from inside will be the last solution.

 

[longjohnsilver]

I am afraid my bearing is too tight like my shaft coupling end up need a cutting. So I will use four 16mm studs and two pieces 10mm thick plates on each side to give it a try. If that still can't push it out. Then fire destroys the rubber and the saw cutting the bearing from inside will be the last solution.

Who on earth put your boat together to cause you so many problems?

 

[Croftie]

Who on earth put your boat together to cause you so many problems?

 

[vas]

just repeating what been said before again!

16mm bolts are worse than 10mm in this case as far as I can understand as a turn on the 10mm means less of a travel for the nut on the bolt, so less force needed, and easier to balance them out.
And don't use nylock nuts, just plain old ones well lubricated.
Still think you should clean ALL a/f and try to find more grub screws in there...

 

[Boater On Thames]

I removed the nylock, so the nuts are plain now. Turning the nuts is easy, not the problem either 10mm or 16mm.

I can confirm there is only one grub screw. Checked everywhere.


One more hole saw is gone! I feel like each new hole saw can only cut one and a half holes only! And the 6.5mm pilot drill is also gone. It can only drill three and a half holes only. I already drilling at a very low speed!! Nightmare!

 

[Croftie]

I can confirm there is only one grub screw. Checked everywhere.

If this is still the state of the P bracket have you got X Ray vision or something?



Get that AF off!

 

[longjohnsilver]

I removed the nylock, so the nuts are plain now. Turning the nuts is easy, not the problem either 10mm or 16mm.

I can confirm there is only one grub screw. Checked everywhere.


One more hole saw is gone! I feel like each new hole saw can only cut one and a half holes only! And the 6.5mm pilot drill is also gone. It can only drill three and a half holes only. I already drilling at a very low speed!! Nightmare!

I can’t believe there is only 1 grub screw. As already advised, you need to remove all the paint on the P bracket. Then have another look.

 

[vas]

If this is still the state of the P bracket have you got X Ray vision or something?

Get that AF off!

hazard a guess that there may be two in the red spots:


btw, show us where the one you found is! interested to see the layout

 

[Boater On Thames]

Will take some photos later today. There is only one screw on the inner side, not outside of the p bracket. It's very obvious high up can see without even remove the AF.

The scariest thing to me is that this boat manufacturer may also use the same technique to fit the bearing like the coupling to make it unusually tight. Such as they may make the p bracket size smaller than usual (it's 0.5 inches shorter than usual as well), overheated to red, then fit the cool bearing in. I think this may be the reason why there is only one screw and the screw is small.

So I got a bad feeling this also will need to end up fire destroys rubber to remove the shaft, then saw cutting the bearing from inside.

 

[DinghyMan]

hazard a guess that there may be two in the red spots:
btw, show us where the one you found is! interested to see the layout

Looks very possible
And also check that there are not two grub screws in each position - its not uncommon to find a grub screw used to lock an inner grub screw in position

 

[longjohnsilver]

Will take some photos later today. There is only one screw on the inner side, not outside of the p bracket. It's very obvious high up can see without even remove the AF.

The scariest thing to me is that this boat manufacturer may also use the same technique to fit the bearing like the coupling to make it unusually tight. Such as they may make the p bracket size smaller than usual (it's 0.5 inches shorter than usual as well), overheated to red, then fit the cool bearing in. I think this may be the reason why there is only one screw and the screw is small.

You’re not listening(or reading) no boat builder would use just 1 grub screw to hold a cutlas bearing.