Jokani
Well-Known Member
I am in the process of installing a new Waeco CRX50 Fridge, would it be worthwhile fitting some additional Celotex insulation?
Extra fridge insulation - Worth the effort?
- Thread starter Jokani
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Tim Good
Well-Known Member
If power consumption is important to you and you're away from shore power a lot then I'd add as much insulation as you phyisically can. Unfortuanlty my fridge was built into the cabinet and I can't add more but I'd add double if i could.
MAURICE
Well-Known Member
more insulation the better not so bad around UK but in hotter climates the fridge kills the battery.
Trundlebug
Well-Known Member
+1
Results in longer battery life, (short term and long term) giving potential to stay away for longer or run that noisy generator less. What's not to like?
lw395
Well-Known Member
A lot of yachts had pathetic insulation as built.
How good is what you have?
There is a limit to what can be done with celotex as some heat will flow around the structure, along the plumbing and wiring.
How good is what you have?
There is a limit to what can be done with celotex as some heat will flow around the structure, along the plumbing and wiring.
Jokani
Well-Known Member
I think Centaurs were built before insulation was invented. Nothing but fibreglass and headlining at the moment, altough when the headlining is replace I may put in some 10mm closed cell.
Neeves
Well-Known Member
I don't know the CRX50 but you might be better considering removing heat from the heat exchanger and venting in cool air from outside, computer fans and ducting, than adding (or as well as adding) insulation. Much depends on how much space you have, for either.
Jonathan
Jonathan
bedouin
Well-Known Member
Part of the problem is that you could only add insulation to the sides and top, not the door, back or bottom (I guess). I would say that if you aren't happy with what comes as standard you should look for a different solution.
I would agree that getting the hot air away from the back is more important than just added insulation to the sides
I would agree that getting the hot air away from the back is more important than just added insulation to the sides
lw395
Well-Known Member
My mistake, I was thinking in terms of the built-in cool box with separate compressor unit as found on may boats.
Martin&Rene
Well-Known Member
Yes, it is worth while. If you can slide the foam, between the fridge and the seat backs, then stick the foam onto the seat backs, not the fridge. I stuck it on to the fridge and ended up with a sealed place behind the seat back and the air in it cooled and eventually I started to see condensation forming behind the cushions.
I also absolutely agree with the suggestion to put in computer fans and ducting to pull air over the compressor cooling coils from the bilge and exhaust it into the saloon. Pipe insulation on the compressor cooling pipes is also a must.
I also made up a cover using 2 thicknesses of cork tiles, to go over the fridge lid and as a minimum I put this there at night and if the sun is shining onto the fridge.
Every little bit that you can do helps, as the fridge is probably the biggest power user on your yacht.
I also absolutely agree with the suggestion to put in computer fans and ducting to pull air over the compressor cooling coils from the bilge and exhaust it into the saloon. Pipe insulation on the compressor cooling pipes is also a must.
I also made up a cover using 2 thicknesses of cork tiles, to go over the fridge lid and as a minimum I put this there at night and if the sun is shining onto the fridge.
Every little bit that you can do helps, as the fridge is probably the biggest power user on your yacht.
Plum
Well-Known Member
Hi, I fitted a Waeco CRX50 Fridge, nearly 2 years ago and it is a great fridge. I have removed the removable ice box to give a bigger fridge volume. I added rockwool insulation in the 45mm cavity each side. If you use a rigid foam it should be bonded or at least in good contact to the sides of the fridge to ensure no air movement in a gap betreen the two. On the top i bonded a sheet of expanded polystyrene, because i already had some. After the extra insulation was added the fridge on-time was certainly less so less worry about battery capacity.
Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
Tim Good
Well-Known Member
If I got a digital thermal laser pointer and pointed it at different places in my fridge do you think it would accurately tell me where best to add additional insulation?
Plum
Well-Known Member
On the basis that heat is coming into your fridge from the outside while the cooling system is pumping it back out again, then yes, measuring the temperature all around the inside of your fridge will tell you where the insulation is less effective but you would have to do this while sitting inside your fridge with the door shut! Not recommended, even if you have a fridge big enough.
Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
PetiteFleur
Well-Known Member
Last year a friend added insulation to the cool box on his Westerly Griffon mk2, adding a fridge kit and he's very pleased. He fitted as much celotex insulation as he could in the available space and now has a very usable fridge, bigger than my Waeco fridge.
ashtead
Well-Known Member
Have a reasonably new boat with a fridge built in so is it worth buying this celotex to add in behind if space permits ? Curious to know if it's a cheap solution ?
Neeves
Well-Known Member
As I mentioned I don't know this particular unit but from an image the compressor and heat exchanger is 'fitted' and housed in a recess at the top and back of the fridge. You might be able to move the compressor - but I'm not sure the pipes will be long enough. These fridges (with the compressor in a recess) are designed such that you must have space, somewhere, round the fridge to allow the warm air to 'escape' and fresh air to replace it - so you therefore cannot fill all the gaps with insulation (or the compressor and heat exchanger will stay hot).
We installed a new Dometic (I think its the same company as Waeco and our unit looks like a bigger version of the OPs Waeco) with everything housed in the recess. We did think of extra insulation but based on the need for the airflow we discarded that idea. We simply added computer fans - one to suck air in (we are lucky and can duct from the bow anchor locker, but you need a sweet smelling locker) and we also forced the warm air out using another fan. The fans are wired into the existing fan circuit - and come on only when the fridge cycles on. You will easily work out how to arrange the fans so that you direct cold air and remove the warm.
The new fridge is much more efficient than the 20 year old one it replaces (but we have not quantified this). The biggest draw is starting from 'off' when the fridge is warm and filling with cold items reduces this start up power draw considerably (we freeze ice for the freezer compartment at home etc)
So by all means add insulation, if you can, but leave the top and bottom open to allow air circulation. If the compressor can be located independent of the box then fill all the space round the new fridge with insulation but vent the locker in which you locate the compressor (try to find your coldest source of fresh air and duct it into and over the compressor and force feed warm air from the locker into the cabin).
Ours was a bigger unit, a 110 from memory. One issue was lifting it - its not heavy but sufficient big that my arms were not really long enough to grasp it as securely as I would have liked, it was a combination of being large and heavy-ish. Its also top heavy as our compressor was in the recess at the top. We delivered by dinghy - which is why this was an issue. If you can - deliver direct from shore - and have 2 people. Ours was also a tight fit to get into the galley area (watch your fingers!) - again 2 people will make it easier. Ours also came with a protective poly sheet covering the door facia - it is possible to remove the frame round the facia to remove the protective sheet - Waeco/Dometic have some instructions. You can take the door off (and take the shelves out) - which will reduce the weight a bit but you need to put the door on before you instal (or we did).
Jonathan
We installed a new Dometic (I think its the same company as Waeco and our unit looks like a bigger version of the OPs Waeco) with everything housed in the recess. We did think of extra insulation but based on the need for the airflow we discarded that idea. We simply added computer fans - one to suck air in (we are lucky and can duct from the bow anchor locker, but you need a sweet smelling locker) and we also forced the warm air out using another fan. The fans are wired into the existing fan circuit - and come on only when the fridge cycles on. You will easily work out how to arrange the fans so that you direct cold air and remove the warm.
The new fridge is much more efficient than the 20 year old one it replaces (but we have not quantified this). The biggest draw is starting from 'off' when the fridge is warm and filling with cold items reduces this start up power draw considerably (we freeze ice for the freezer compartment at home etc)
So by all means add insulation, if you can, but leave the top and bottom open to allow air circulation. If the compressor can be located independent of the box then fill all the space round the new fridge with insulation but vent the locker in which you locate the compressor (try to find your coldest source of fresh air and duct it into and over the compressor and force feed warm air from the locker into the cabin).
Ours was a bigger unit, a 110 from memory. One issue was lifting it - its not heavy but sufficient big that my arms were not really long enough to grasp it as securely as I would have liked, it was a combination of being large and heavy-ish. Its also top heavy as our compressor was in the recess at the top. We delivered by dinghy - which is why this was an issue. If you can - deliver direct from shore - and have 2 people. Ours was also a tight fit to get into the galley area (watch your fingers!) - again 2 people will make it easier. Ours also came with a protective poly sheet covering the door facia - it is possible to remove the frame round the facia to remove the protective sheet - Waeco/Dometic have some instructions. You can take the door off (and take the shelves out) - which will reduce the weight a bit but you need to put the door on before you instal (or we did).
Jonathan
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