Experiences with wood glue ?

[fergie_mac66]

Thanks for the welcome electrosys. The last tub of Cascamite I bought was just from the local building supplies place but other than being in a plastic tub seems to still be essentially the same stuff as came in a tin years ago. Easy enough to come by so never tried the 'soundalike' products. Works best in a thin sheen when there is a lot of surface area in contact (like dinghy chines and gunwales or laminating). You need to make sure that all the powder's properly mixed to a consistent paste. Mop up any drips asap because it sets solid. As already said though, it does chip and shatter, and isn't going to stand up to all conditions. For interior work and dinghies it's been good enough for the job. Similarly my tiller's laminated up using cascamite, but again it's not permanently exposed to the ravages of the British weather.

Never used Balcotan / Collano Semparoc etc but did use something similar once to make up a replacement chain locker lid from ply and softwood after the original GRP one was lost in the sea. Those bonds still seemed to be okay after four years of exposure to salt water and rain. I do remember it as being relatively expensive and quite nasty stuff though. Bizarrely, some of the most stubborn bonds I've come across recently are those where building products have been used - gripfill, no more nails kind of things. I'm not sure what some bright spark stuck a thick chipboard kitchen worktop onto the GRP galley moulding with on my boat but I don't think even Armageddon would shift it.

somebody had used something like that to glue a shelf to our vinyl headlining ! when first got on cat i was rather sprized to find I had a job getting it off and in fact the wood broke leaving a thin peice glued to the vinyl and i have not been able to get it off for fear or ripping the vinyl !

 

[Spuddy]

Haven't had any explosions from bottles of PU and the only filthy part was when I first used it and got some on my hands - they went black.
I really would like to know what circumstances lead to the stuff behaving unsociably.

 

[BERT T]

WOOD GLUE

Still using Cascamite. Lasts for ever if kept dry!

+1. Still use it, if anyone can prove to me there is a better one I'll try it.
But be prepared to eat your glue if it isn't!!!!!

 

[fishermantwo]

For those of us who are not British and do not have a clue what Cascamite is, I had to google it. Cascamite is the trade name for a urea-formaldehyde glue....it was very popular in the 1960's.
First boat I built in 1970 was with urea-formaldehyde. Recorcinal-formaldedyde is much better But was too expensive at the time.

 

[Lakesailor]

Try some Sabatack 750XL (available in white, black and "teak").
It's a marine adhesive like Sikaflex 292 but cheaper, doesn't go off in the tube and sticks very, very well.
I butt-glued some iroko to a piece of 3/4" marine ply and no-one I have offered it to has yet been able to break them apart.
Don't let the film be too thick and let it cure for a few days. It even cures in the presence of water.
It may not be the answer to the OP's question, but I have used it several times and only had one failure, where I used it too thickly, I think. It does have gap-sealing properties, but they are at the expense of it's adhesive properties.

 

[ex-Gladys]

Not a wood glue, but my current favourite is Bostick "Wet Grab". I was in B&Q one day and saw a mastic gun sized tube for about £8. The issue I had to fix was Trakmark pads on the deck coming unstuck, and two seasons on they're still stuck. Magic, considering it was raining at the time I did the job... Just wanted to check the claim on the stuff....