Daydream believer
Well-known member
So just think how your engine must feel. Have some sympathy.
As Bouba says. The best way to waste money-- is not to spend it.
Engine Service Intervals
- Thread starter Irish Rover
- Start date
As Bouba says. The best way to waste money-- is not to spend it.
Daydream believer
Well-known member
Boathook
Well-known member
I know it isn't a diesel, but I service my main outboard once a year regardless of hours. Seems to work for me.
Daydream believer
Well-known member
Don't you just love that line- at the start of a long line of advice
Irish Rover
Well-known member
On the plus side for the engines, they can't read.
Irish Rover
Well-known member
So, let's move on. Do we need to change impellers, belts, anodes etc every 250 hours.
billskip
Well-known member
If you want to stretch it then run on one engine where and when you can ( if you don't mind going in circles)
Irish Rover
Well-known member
On my previous boat, which was also a powercat, I mainly operated on one engine, but from the tests I've done on the present one, it's only more economic on fuel at speeds of less than 5 knots and even then only marginal. As regards going around in circles, I'll leave that to some posters on YBW who have much more experienceof it than me..
ChromeDome
Well-known member
I took oil samples from my engines (two marine and two cars) and had them analyzed. Also had a good discussion with the lab and got their view on oil wear, best-before-date and a lot more.
Their advice, after interpreting the report, has been the basis for my service plan.
I really do suggest this approach for peace of mind. And it wasn't expensive.
Their advice, after interpreting the report, has been the basis for my service plan.
I really do suggest this approach for peace of mind. And it wasn't expensive.
billskip
Well-known member
Anode I would be very careful with ,because what ever eats those will eat an alternative...belts and impellers, I would stretch the time.....
dunedin
Well-known member
So if going to quote, please quote in full - I am a complete non expert, so free forum advice at its best (worst) ………Don't you just love that line- at the start of a long line of advice
Daydream believer
Well-known member
Bit like members with an instruction manual then
Irish Rover
Well-known member
I find advice from self-confessed complete non experts much more useful than advice from the complete non experts who think they're experts.So if going to quote, please quote in full - I am a complete non expert, so free forum advice at its best (worst) ………
Daydream believer
Well-known member
I would naturally expect it to be free. no way would I PAYSo if going to quote, please quote in full - I am a complete non expert, so free forum advice at its best (worst) ………
If I wanted to PAY for the wrong advice, I would go to a professional
38mess
Well-known member
Did you not factor in these costs before you acquired the boat?
Irish Rover
Well-known member
WTF has that got to do with anything?
sailoppopotamus
Active member
As far as belts go, you might be able to upgrade the "Yanmar" belts to heavy-duty Gates belts. You'll need to find the right size for your engine/alternator, and they are not cheap to buy, but they seem pretty indestructible. I changed my belts last year and do not expect to replace them for several years to come (I do carry spare belts, of course).
ChromeDome
Well-known member
Impellers: Admittedly, some replace this part way too early, others too late. Again, I'll share my practice for your inspiration, appreciating that you're making your own decisions and living by the consequences.
Since I fitted flow alarms on the seawater intake between the strainers and the impeller pumps 12 years ago, I've received a warning in case flow goes low for any reason, way before heat exchangers or engines realize that something is wrong.
At my last impeller replacement, they were 7 years old. I hadn't had an alarm but felt it was a good idea. The removed ones were like new, and I have one on a shelf as a memento.
The onboard travel kit always includes new impellers, filters, belts, and other goodies.
Anodes: As I mainly sail in the same waters, I have experience with their service life, but I check anodes before replacing them. The principle is that whether they look good or not, the weight matters. If less than 50% remains, they are replaced.
As I'm moving to a new (to me) house and the boat has been berthed in a new marina, some collected experiences have been reset. I'll be keeping an eye on things again.
For those interested, my new local waters (new marina not in the photo):
Since I fitted flow alarms on the seawater intake between the strainers and the impeller pumps 12 years ago, I've received a warning in case flow goes low for any reason, way before heat exchangers or engines realize that something is wrong.
At my last impeller replacement, they were 7 years old. I hadn't had an alarm but felt it was a good idea. The removed ones were like new, and I have one on a shelf as a memento.
The onboard travel kit always includes new impellers, filters, belts, and other goodies.
Anodes: As I mainly sail in the same waters, I have experience with their service life, but I check anodes before replacing them. The principle is that whether they look good or not, the weight matters. If less than 50% remains, they are replaced.
As I'm moving to a new (to me) house and the boat has been berthed in a new marina, some collected experiences have been reset. I'll be keeping an eye on things again.
For those interested, my new local waters (new marina not in the photo
):
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Babylon
Well-known member
I replace mine every engine service, which is every year (average 50hrs as wind is the primary motive force) and every year I ask myself why I'm pulling out and throwing away a perfect looking impeller?! I do this because the book tells me to"check sea water pump impeller and change if worn". But how would I know what "worn" looks like? Either it has all its paddles intact or it has exploded with bits jammed all over the insides of the raw-water part of the system... so I just change it every year!
The alternator belt failed once, when the engine was five years old, it is now thirteen and the replacement is still good. I don't know why it broke, but it was just after starting the engine in Braye Harbour, Alderney before a single-handed crossing back. I always carry a full set of spares for everything and it took only a few minutes to replace.
Every year I replace the coolant/antifreeze. Whilst cleaning the heat-exchanger stack and renewing the O-rings is a yearly item, the coolant is only a two-yearly item or 750hrs (in thirteen years I still haven't put that many hours on the engine!). But I don't trust the whole system to be entirely clear of crud (considerably less comes out and goes back in than the spec capacity) and once the HE is apart I'm half way there anyway, so I empty and flush it as best I can then fill with fresh every year.
Why should the air filter be changed every two years? Book says to check it every 250hrs and replace it every 750hrs... but I replace it every two years or 100hrs, when it has only a bit of black-brown on the paper fins.
I'm evidently doing a lot of things that aren't strictly necessary but which fall into the "better safe than sorry", "peace of mind" and "good seamanship" categories of engine servicing! And if I paid an engineer to look after my engine, they would replace everything as a matter of course (and prevention of liability) and charge me for it!
38mess
Well-known member
Well stop moaning about it on here and get on with the service, it's only money.