Engine electrics

Well spent hours on this yesterday. Checked everything I could and found this thread very useful, thank you all. Learnt a good bit on the way. But no luck. Still dead engine electrics. Other stuff works. So have to get the wallet out sadly. I will update with result.
Thank you all for pointers and advice.
 
Does your engine have a setup where the engine can only be started with the throttle/gear in neutral? if it is in neutral, could the associated microswitch/wiring be at fault?
 
Been looking at the wiring diagram again. In my ignorance of such matters I've concluded the problem is either on the push button power on/off or back upstream towards battery. The battery(ies) seem okay. So I'm suspicious of fuse box (the box of four in the clear plastic box) or the relay. Or connections along that route. Does that seem right?

Fuses look okay and show continuity using a multimeter. Is that a good enough check?

The relay. Mmm not sure what I do with that.

Will need a dry day I reckon to start exploring the control panel. I need to learn more about this stuff.
 
If you have a multimeter, set it to 20v DC range, connect the neg lead to the battery neg and work from the battery pos with the pos lead away from the battery down the line, isolator switch, fuse box both sides of every fuse etc. and keep going till the voltage disappears, then you have found the problem.
Remember that it could be a negative connection that is no good if all the positive ones are OK.
It just takes systematic patience instead of guesswork to find the fault.
Don't go exploring the control panel until you know what is wrong, you will get confused and maybe create more faults by messing and guessing.
 
Boater Sam said:
If you have a multimeter, set it to 20v DC range, connect the neg lead to the battery neg and work from the battery pos with the pos lead away from the battery down the line, isolator switch, fuse box both sides of every fuse etc. and keep going till the voltage disappears, then you have found the problem.
Remember that it could be a negative connection that is no good if all the positive ones are OK.
It just takes systematic patience instead of guesswork to find the fault.
Don't go exploring the control panel until you know what is wrong, you will get confused and maybe create more faults by messing and guessing.
Click to expand...

Thanks Boater Sam. That makes sense to me I'll give it a go.
 
MJWB said:
Thanks Boater Sam. That makes sense to me I'll give it a go.
Click to expand...

Consult your wiring diagram and find where the negative and positive connections are. Connect a negative from the battery to the connection on the panel, if the panel works, the fault is in the negative side of things. Repeat for the positive connection. This will narrow the fault down a little, i'd be surprised if it's a negative fault though.

You could then follow the advice in post #33, which is sound. But, before you do, you could save some time by checking the positive wire for the panel at the multi-plug on the engine. Check the input pin is live, then check the output pin. Do this for two reasons, firstly, the plugs often fail and secondly, it narrows the search down again, if no positive at the input, check back from there, if there is and it's still live at the plug output pin, continue onwards from there.
 
And the result is?... used mr multimeter worked systematically as per advice above, after reading, looking at wiring diagram and working on my confidence. Main cable from battery selector had seperated at solenoid I believe it is. Hard to see why this has happened. Re-connected now and engine working. As a non practical person learning, thank you all very much for advice. It really helps being able to ask.
 
Boater Sam said:
There you go, stood on it whilst changing the filter maybe?
Glad you got sorted, every day is a learning day.
Click to expand...
You know what in terms of accidental damage you may be right. I've wracked and wracked my brain about how it's happened as filters are front or other side. The only thing I can think of is that I did reach down this side of the engine once feeling about for a drain plug. All I can think of is that I caught it somehow. Perhaps the connector was in poor condition and failed with a light accidental bump. All I can think of.
 
MJWB said:
And the result is?... used mr multimeter worked systematically as per advice above, after reading, looking at wiring diagram and working on my confidence. Main cable from battery selector had seperated at solenoid I believe it is. Hard to see why this has happened. Re-connected now and engine working. As a non practical person learning, thank you all very much for advice. It really helps being able to ask.
Click to expand...

Well done for finding and fixing it, thanks for letting us know what it was (y)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Other threads that may be of interest

Jon magowan
White Smoke from my Engine
Replies
11
Views
466
Ian_Rob
I
N
Volvo Penta Alarm Module/Alternator Issues
Replies
1
Views
143
superheat6k
superheat6k
B
How does a tacho get RPM and engine-hours data, and how to fix faulty readings?
Replies
16
Views
449
Babylon
B
geem
First 6 months with no gas onboard
2 3
Replies
41
Views
1K
Baggywrinkle
Baggywrinkle

Share this page

Top