engine box



I would like to make a new engine box for my diesel engine(perkins 4-107).Could anyone suggest suitable materials for construction and insulation.Also any advise on clearances and ventilation ports.

Thanks in advance for any help.



Well-known member
19 Aug 2001
I have just built an engine box for my Ford 1.6 Diesel. I have made it of two layers of 1/2" plywood with a layer of lead flashing between the two pieces of Plywood. In additional I have fitted a layer of Sound insulation foam which also has a layer of lead sandwiched in the middle. As far as ventilation is concerned this does pose a problem because any gaps will allow noise to leak out. I have therefor ensured that there is ample ventilation under the cockpit floor up to the stearn lockers which have ventilation. A 2 litre engine running at 3000 rpm will consume approx 3000 (or is it 6000)litres of air per min so you have to make sure that there is sufficient area to allow this level of flow. In addition I have also installed a forced extraction fan which will contine to run after the engine is switched off hopefully keeping any engine smells at a minimum until the unit has cooled down. In assembling the box, the two side can be removed for access and are sealed with foam strip, also the entire box can be lifted off to give all round access.

Don't know how effective all this will be as I have not run the engine yet so time will tell.


John Corstorphine


New member
4 Jul 2001
Australia, East coast.
The last engine box I built was fibreglass, because I wanted minimum maintenance and weight. I made a simple female mould from scrap plywood and filled the corners to give smooth rounded edges and corners. 4 layers of unidirectional 400 gram using epoxy resin, cut the whole thing in half, a bit of sanding and a coat of poly u paint, some snap clips to hold it down and the 2 ends together.
Soundproofing materials are not cheap if want to avoid noise, also check how much heat and fuel the material will resist, then check the manufacturers sound proofing ratings and cost per square meter / yard and work out the best value for money.
Ventilation is critical and often the source of noise leaks so insulate the intake tube/box, fitting baffles will also help reduce noise leakage (what a pity we cant draw here).
Clearance is not so critical, just ensure nothing rubs on the inside of the box and you have enough gap for air to flow freely around the engine.
Happy (Quiet) motoring…..Old Salt Oz.


Hi,dont know exact set up on your 4-107 but on mine in a Plymouth Pilot the solenoid is fixed to bracket at base of the engine near the starter motor, and every time I take off and then replace the engine box it gets 'clouted'. Would advise you ensure that you give a little extra clearance in this area.I have learned the hard way.
Also as previously stated make sure sufficient ventilation is still available.
These engines are generally good workhorses, but they really do need plenty of air.

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