eberspacher timers

[ShaunG]

I have just got myself a ex BT D1LC eberspacer. I have removed the 1 hour timer and the unit works great. Does anyone know if the rheostat control can be replaced by a timer as it would be nice to get out of my bunk to a warm boat. I have tried a couple of dealers and they have given me a plethora of part numbers, some which may require a relay. Can anyone who has done this advise on the correct part number to have a 7 day timer in place of the rheostat.

Many thanks

shaun ( proud owner of a warm boat now /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif )

 

[steve28]

any of the 7day timers from ebay are fine, you will have to adapt the wiring slightly. I used the wire thats from trailer boards to extend mine to a suitable position. in doing this it enables you to put male spade terminals on the heater end so you can plug them in indivually where the old selector was. the timer plug goes on the other end . The timer plug will involve some soldering but its straight forward and comes with instructions.
if you need any help PM me.
just found this one that would work and may be worth bidding on.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Eberspacher-7-day-...A1%7C240%3A1318


steve

 

[ShaunG]

Thanks steve,

Strangely enough i have already extended the wiring using trailerboard stuff to the rheostat and have spade connectors on the end. If i understand correctly i just need the timer, 12 pin plug which i connect to the wiring in place of the rheostat (after adding the pins to the connector) and no need for a relay. I was a little confused about the relay as there appears to be no high amp current through the rheostat so i could not see why a relay would be needed to switch low current. If you have a diagram or some instructions it would be much appreciated

Thanks

Shaun

 

[rjp]

You can get all the diagrams and instructions for the Eber timers at www.espar.com I think. Loads of useful Eber documentation there.

john

 

[pcatterall]

The only relay around would be for the older D1s and was for the glow plug.
Note that many of the eber timers ( from bt vans) have a one hour run time so you need to overide that.

 

[npf1]

"Note that many of the eber timers ( from bt vans) have a one hour run time so you need to overide that."

Any idea how?

Thanks

 

[Gordonmc]

The DIL had a simple clockwork timer which could be set 24 hours in advance to come on for an hour, which might meet your need for a blast first thing.
If so I have one in my bits-box which you can have for the cost of the posting.
It wires onto the spades of the on-off rotary switch. No relays, its just an over-ride.
PM me if it is of any use.

 

[Anonymous]

I have an Airtronic D5L with electronic thermostat (no timer). On occasions I would like to force the power level without fiddling with the thermostat setting -- e.g. a 4 position switch Auto-1kW-2kW-5kW Does anyone know how easy this is to do, and where the circuits are?

 

[steve28]

heat output is regulated by the airflow temp sensor within the heater so the only way to make it go more would be to decrease the air temp.

 

[Anonymous]

[ QUOTE ]
heat output is regulated by the airflow temp sensor within the heater so the only way to make it go more would be to decrease the air temp.

[/ QUOTE ]There must surely be a 'demand' which comes from the 'stat and then the outlet airflow sensor? I presume there is some pre-determined algorithm relating airflow with demand which could be quite sophisticated if it follows the lines of some of the more modern building controls.

I certainly wouldn't want to override the airflow sensor as that could make the air outlet unacceptably hot (releasing volatiles from the plastic ducting, at the very least, and heating up storage spaces).

In the very crudest form, I could put an FET across the 'stat pot, controlled via an integrator of, say, 3 minutes time constant, and count clicks with a mic. A PLL could discriminate 1kW, 2kW, 5kW or 5.5kW and determine which fuel supply rate we are on; this could be compared with the desired power level and gently force the integrator (and the FET across the pot) to the desired level. Quite easy to do with a veroboard and a couple of hours but I don't want to run a cable from the mic to the 'stat. Unless pump rate is avaliable on the 'stat board?